UJK Parf Guide dog holes too tight

[Roachmill]

You won't regret it Mike. I still look upon my one with the eyes of a teenager in love for the very first time  [big grin] [eek]

 

[Imemiter]

My stocking stuffer! It's a Christmas miracle.

 

[Vtshopdog]

Of course it comes out after I bought the 20mm hand reamer suggested in another thread.
Attaching to a drill is very appealing, might as well own both.

 

[Mike Goetzke]

My Axminster reamer was delivered today - quicker shipping than Amazon Prime!

 

[Roachmill]

My Axminster reamer was delivered today - quicker shipping than Amazon Prime!

You did well to get your hands on one as they sold out pretty quickly. I [scratch chin] suspect [scratch chin] there was a rush on them after Peter published his excellent in-depth video on them.

 

[Stone Message]

When they went out of stock just after the video was published Axminster put another bunch on the web site but those were sold out this morning. Nobody had any idea that the reamer would be so popular.

So, I have just spoken to Axminster and they are on the case. For some reason (that I do not understand) their web site is currently not allowing a back order reservation to be made for the reamers. These are made on a huge CNC machine which is longer than my house. Although they have two of these both are currently in mid flight producing other kit. It can take a couple of hours to retool, calibrate and restock one of these machines ready for a new job and so the next batch cannot now start in production until Monday.

I have warned Axminster about the popularity (I suspect they knew this anyway) and they will not let anyone down.

Peter

 

[pixelated]

The Axminster site does let you signup for an email notification when the stock is replenished. The reamer will be just the thing for my MFT 800 which has tighter holes than the current MFT. It's great news that Axminster has decided to make this a regular product.

 

[Vtshopdog]

....... Nobody had any idea that the reamer would be so popular.......

Peter

Perhaps inserting the qualifier "at Axminster" would be appropriate??
;D ;D ;D

Asked Santa for this plus revision dogs as stocking stuffer and they arrived yesterday.  (Quite happy that my wife is much less prone to procrastinate than I am and ordered right away.  Left to my own devices I would be waiting for the backorder units)

Axminster shipping and service is really good. 

 

[Imemiter]

Mine came in yesterday. $7USD to ship it around the world. What a time to be alive. It's very nicely turned. I've done about twenty holes so far on my home-gamer bench of 1/2" Baltic and it's working well. Thanks Santa! 

 

[Cheese]

Personally, I think the time has come to embrace the similarity in the machining tolerances of metals with the machining tolerances of wood.

Twenty years ago people in the woodworking industry would exclaim that anything machined within 1/16" to 1/32" is GOOD ENOUGH.

Times have changed, wooden rulers are no longer being used to measure critical dimensions, bad Stanley tape measures are no longer being viewed as the arbiter of precise dimensions. People are using knee mills and CNC machines to machine wood and they consistently rely on +/- of .001" tolerances for inlays.

We've rounded the corner and that's a good thing.

Sure, wood expands with humidity but aluminum and plastic expand with temperature and from a manufacturing consistency  standpoint, we've been able to successfully gather that in within the last 15 years.

The future will embrace this new method of thought, and the biggest break-throughs will be with the folks that strive to achieve +/- .015" in wood rather than those that say 1/16" is good enough. 1/16" is good enough for framing...but not much else for fine woodworking.

This reamer thread is a great example, the reamers people are exploring are machine tools developed for the metal fabrication industry. The cross-over is astounding.

 

[mkasdin]

Personally, I think the time has come to embrace the similarity in the machining tolerances of metals with the machining tolerances of wood.

Twenty years ago people in the woodworking industry would exclaim that anything machined within 1/16" to 1/32" is GOOD ENOUGH.

Times have changed, wooden rulers are no longer being used to measure critical dimensions, bad Stanley tape measures are no longer being viewed as the arbiter of precise dimensions. People are using knee mills and CNC machines to machine wood and they consistently rely on +/- of .001" tolerances for inlays.

We've rounded the corner and that's a good thing.

Sure, wood expands with humidity but aluminum and plastic expand with temperature and from a manufacturing consistency  standpoint, we've been able to successfully gather that in within the last 15 years.

The future will embrace this new method of thought, and the biggest break-throughs will be with the folks that strive to achieve +/- .015" in wood rather than those that say 1/16" is good enough. 1/16" is good enough for framing...but not much else for fine woodworking.

This reamer thread is a great example, the reamers people are exploring are machine tools developed for the metal fabrication industry. The cross-over is astounding.

When I was in the military (Seabees), if anyone asked about the tolerance or fit the answer at times “good enough for a government job (government work).” That meant somewhere in the 1/8” with a tolerance of +/-  1/8”. I do agree with you, in the age of cheap digital micrometers and super precise measuring tools and cutting machines the world of WW has evolved into machining wood in some cases? I’m guilty by default.

 

[Stone Message]

When I was in the military (Seabees), if anyone asked about the tolerance or fit the answer at times “good enough for a government job (government work).” That meant somewhere in the 1/8” with a tolerance of +/-  1/8”. I do agree with you, in the age of cheap digital micrometers and super precise measuring tools and cutting machines the world of WW has evolved into machining wood in some cases? I’m guilty by default.

Yes, I have used "Close enough for government work" a few times in my videos.

The great thing about better precision (and as this is a Parf Guide thread) is the ability to cut things accurately, especially square, as everything then comes together so easily. Also, repeat cuts tend to be identical rather than - close enough for government work.

Cheers.

Peter

 

[GigaWatt]

When I was in the military (Seabees), if anyone asked about the tolerance or fit the answer at times “good enough for a government job (government work).” That meant somewhere in the 1/8” with a tolerance of +/-  1/8”. I do agree with you, in the age of cheap digital micrometers and super precise measuring tools and cutting machines the world of WW has evolved into machining wood in some cases? I’m guilty by default.

Yes, I have used "Close enough for government work" a few times in my videos.

The great thing about better precision (and as this is a Parf Guide thread) is the ability to cut things accurately, especially square, as everything then comes together so easily. Also, repeat cuts tend to be identical rather than - close enough for government work.

Cheers.

Peter

I just recently started buying Festool equipment and decided to build an MFT. I own an Avid CNC which is a great piece of equipment. Having stated that, a CNC is only accurate when you have it calibrated to the accuracy required for your work. Mine is calibrated down to 1/64" which is good for most of my. I don't have the equipment to calibrate to 0.001". I cut a test MFT top with 6 rows of holes in both X & Y axsis. Tools that used 2 adjacent dog holes was passible however tools like the TSO Triangle that are dogged across multiple holes caused problems. If your cnc is off 0.001 of in accuracy, that multiplies across a number of holes.

I bought the UJK Parf Guide and used it to build a 32" X 48" table. It is dead on accurate across any number and configuration of holes! I plan on building another table and several add on's and the Parf Guide System is a "Must Have Tool".

I purchased bench dogs from TSO, UJK Tech, BenchDogs UK and Sauter Shop. I prefer the "TSO Close Fit", TSO Standards slide in and out easily. I used the pecking method described in Peter's video to drill my top. Each and every hole has a snug fit and I have to use a dog clamp to remove short dogs or push from under the table. I prefer the accuracy of that as opposed to having a looser fit.

 

[Wood_Slice]

Using the fostner bit is there a way to make sure the bottom is chip free/no tear out without having a backer board underneath it? Should I slow or speed up the bits turning motion. Drill with pressure downwards slower?

 

[Stone Message]

Using the fostner bit is there a way to make sure the bottom is chip free/no tear out without having a backer board underneath it? Should I slow or speed up the bits turning motion. Drill with pressure downwards slower?

With the Medite MR MDF that I use there is very little tear out. If you do find it happening then reduce the pressure on the drilling motion towards the end of the hole so that the thin layer, just before the bit comes out the far side, is not "pushed" out rather than "cut out". It is better to maintain the drill speed through the process.

Peter

 

[Bugsysiegals]

Using the fostner bit is there a way to make sure the bottom is chip free/no tear out without having a backer board underneath it? Should I slow or speed up the bits turning motion. Drill with pressure downwards slower?

Remember the 3mm center of the bit does not cut so a backer board would have to have the 3mm hole perfectly aligned in the center for every hole.

 

[cubevandude]

Using the fostner bit is there a way to make sure the bottom is chip free/no tear out without having a backer board underneath it? Should I slow or speed up the bits turning motion. Drill with pressure downwards slower?

I set the jig so it just drills about 3mm and do one side, then flip it over and drill it right through on the other side.  Its more work, but stops and chipout.

 

[MikeGE]

I set the jig so it just drills about 3mm and do one side, then flip it over and drill it right through on the other side.  Its more work, but stops and chipout.

This is what I will do when it's time to replace the the top of my workbench.  It is more work, especially for a top with 200 holes, but should produce a clean hole with no breakout.

 

[Mike Goetzke]

Nice day to use my Praf reamer. Is it just me or does this act more like a burnisher? I can only ream maybe 9-10  holes and this thing is almost smoking hot! I have to let it cool, clean it up, and do another few holes. My table is MDF and the holes look somewhat black when finished - almost like I'm running it backwards.

Anyone else have this issue?

Thanks

 

[Stone Message]

Hi Mike,

It is a reamer so lower your speed.

Peter