Ultra-Shear Metric Half-Round Carbide Head Bits
- Thread starter jeffinsgf
- Start date
I would have sworn I put the page link in the first post, but I can see now I somehow skipped it. Here it is.
https://www.woodpeck.com/ultra-shear-metric-half-round-bits-2-flute.html
https://www.woodpeck.com/ultra-shear-metric-half-round-bits-2-flute.html
Crazyraceguy
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Those are really nice looking....and 1/2 shanks too! Perfect for the router table.
Mike Goetzke
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I built a crib 8 years ago for my first granddaughter. Looks like I need to build another. On the first one I made the crib slats like long dominos using my own stock. I actually used an Imperial router bit to get the radius but it took sooooo long to perfect and there was still not a perfect fit. This was OK on the first crib because it was painted and the paint filled the gap but this next on is cherry so might bite on this bit set.
derekcohen
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Ideal for the through tenons in these chair legs.
I have just ordered a couple.
Regards from Perth
Derek
I have just ordered a couple.
Regards from Perth
Derek
smorgasbord
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Nice to see these - although 8mm is so close to 5/16" I'm not sure that makes a difference, but appear to be nice bits at reasonable prices.
Would be nice to support DF700 owners doing larger scale work with 12mm or 14mm tenons.
I'm on vacation now - here's the dining room table in the place we're renting:
[attachimg=1]
That tenon is over ¾" thick, so not domino cut.
Would be nice to support DF700 owners doing larger scale work with 12mm or 14mm tenons.
I'm on vacation now - here's the dining room table in the place we're renting:
[attachimg=1]
That tenon is over ¾" thick, so not domino cut.
Attachments
This day/date error, which is pretty common, was detected because Jeff gave both the day and date. Many people opt to give only the date, and that's where mistakes can be made and not detected. I always make it a habit to put both the day and date for appointments or announcements to keep the odds of blunders or misunderstanding to a minimum.
derekcohen
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jeffinsgf said:
Jeff, thanks for this. I have ordered 6, 10mm upcuts (I have an 8mm), and 6, 8, 10mm rounding bits. The latter will aid in making through tenons of my own width.
For the information of all: I have searched the web fruitlessly - up until this point - for 1/4" and 1/2" size shafts with metric cutters. They simply do not exist. So thanks once again.
Regards from Perth
Derek
P.S. Hopefully you will find my order - which I made in two parts - with instructions to ship all once the individual parts are together (some have to be ordered in).
Mike Goetzke
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I'm thinking of buying these bits but wondering if the fit is so tight will the tenon going into the blind mortise "hydraulic" (maybe you make this mortise on a wide setting?)? Can't remember when gluing some lathe tools into shop made handles I had to drill a hole the let the air and excess glue to escape.
Mike,
You have a lot of control in a lot of different ways. If you're going for an exposed through end you can mill the thickness and width to be a very snug fit, then use a hand scraper or block plane to shave a little off all but the last half inch or so. You can take a carving tool and make a few small grooves along the length from a half inch back to the internal end. When I did my coffee table with padauk slat shelf and padauk through floating tenons, I did both scraping and grooving. And of course, if you're using the bits to make larger tenons that will be blind, you can always make them a tiny bit thinner and a tiny bit narrower.
You have a lot of control in a lot of different ways. If you're going for an exposed through end you can mill the thickness and width to be a very snug fit, then use a hand scraper or block plane to shave a little off all but the last half inch or so. You can take a carving tool and make a few small grooves along the length from a half inch back to the internal end. When I did my coffee table with padauk slat shelf and padauk through floating tenons, I did both scraping and grooving. And of course, if you're using the bits to make larger tenons that will be blind, you can always make them a tiny bit thinner and a tiny bit narrower.
Mike Goetzke
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jeffinsgf said:
Thanks Jeff - getting ready to male a second crib. Years ago on the first one for the vertical slats I put loose tenons in the end of the slats. With these new bits was thinking of making the wider slats themselves the tenons.
Mike Goetzke said:
I did something similar using our Morty Jig. Made a baker's cooling rack with tenon stock straight through mortises in the rails.
Without a shoulder, you need a really accurate fit, but that's nothing more than paying attention and working with properly tuned equipment and keen cutting tools.
Mike Goetzke
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jeffinsgf said:
I ended up buying these bits. But, for the crib after consulting some users here and thinking it over I decided to use a conventional tenon joint between the slats and frame rails. I have about 40 slats so would have had to plunge 80 holes twice to get them to correct with. Any mistake would be costly (or very noticeable). With the smaller tenons I take one plunge and mortise is hidden by the slat.
I was setting up my DF700 for mortises on the crib frames so I thought might as well make a sample double plunged mortise to fit the slats. I was very impressed with the fit but still don't know if it would be perfect 79 more times. I was also impressed with the WP half-round bit. As expected it took a little fussing to get it set up perfect but the results are fantastic! The bit left an almost mirror finish on the slats.
[attachimg=1]
