Used SawStop...

[Harvey]

The good news is that Sawstop's manuals are pretty detailed; the Industrial models are available here-
http://www.sawstop.ca/support/manuals/industrial-cabinet-saw

I would check out the saw, and figure out what exactly is happening with the blade elevation, then check if the saw cycles through it's startup & runs.  Make a list of what parts it requires (fence, rails, etc) and give Sawstop a call for the parts pricing. If you can find out what's happening you're well on your way to rehabbing it, if you can't it will probably be an albatross if you buy it. (God knows I've had my share of them!) Good luck either way! 

 

[Iceclimber]

The saw has the rails so forth and so on. What length i don't know yet?

And the part that needs to be replaced is sitting atop the saw in a factory box just waiting to be installed. Until the last couple hours i had no idea what a trunnion was.  I did some Googling and have a pretty good sense of the inner workings of a cabinet saw now.

I have used a contractors table saw my whole life but never had a need to understand the inner working of one other than how to change the blade as they never ever broke.

My first was a craftsman i got as a gift. My second and currant is a Rigid. To be honest i am mostly buying this saw to deal with two issues. The first issue being dust collection. I am trying really really hard to set up a nearly zero dust shop. Im getting real close and my jobsite table saw is currently my worst offended other than my Dewalt planner. The second reason is so i can equip the saw with a dado blade. I will probably continue to cut my sheet goods to workable size with my tack saw as i just don't have the 20sq feet available a cabinet saw needs to rip sheet goods. Its kinda a bummer imop as the track saw is slow as turd when cutting pieces for cabinets.

 

[Birdhunter]

Be aware that the SawStop requires a different cartridge for a dado blade than for a standard blade and the dado blade can only be a very specific diameter. You would also need a dado specific throat plate. The Forrest dado works.

You have to reset the cartridge to blade clearance for the dado blade. It's different than the standard blade clearance. If the clearance isn't set properly, the safety feature can be compromised. A USA nickel coin is the right tool for setting the clearance.

Please read the manual carefully before cutting in a new throat plate. Doing it wrong can be dangerous.

You also need a high volume dust collector. The over arm blade guard slash dust collector is a great addition as is the mobile base.

 

[Iceclimber]

This is gonna get expensive as i think I'm gonna go with a ClearView dust collector.  From what i can tell the smallest engine is 5 horse requiring its own 30 amp 220 circuit.

Between the saw, dust collector electrical upgrade and closet i will build and sound proof to enclose it this is gonna get expensive. Probably be up and running like next spring early summer.

Gonna snag the saw for the once in a lifetime price while i can and just look at it till i cant stand not using it anymore  and I'm willing to find the rest of the money to ise it

 

[Tyler Ernsberger]

I had a Delta Unisaw in my guest closet for over a year until my shop was finished.  I found it a habitat restore for $150.  I couldnt pass up that good of a deal.    Its not as nice as a Saw Stop but gets the job done.  It has a 3hp motor and I purchased a besemeyer fence and it turned out to be a great saw. 

 

[Iceclimber]

The reality is this saw will sit for quite some time before i get to using it. For the price its really hard to say no so sit it will. Im not using it without a good dust collection system and thats gonna cost $$$$$

On the other hand i make due with a job-site saw now. And this really will be it for tool purchases till probably next June or July. The purchase of all these tools i have been buying has been financed by me selling all my old ice and rock climbing gear as i decided to give both up.

Before i stumbled into this saw i was going to buy a Domino XL with all the Seneca adapters and plates. Part of me wonders is that is not a better plan as i can and will use the domino right away and on many projects between now and next July.

On the other hand paying $1800-2000 for a used SawStop vrs low 4rs later is kinda hard to argue with. If it came to paying full price it would be a long long time before i purchase a SawStop. Although i have considered the option of buying a 3 horse one new for like 3K. This also may not be the worst way to go. Do i really need 5 horse, and i am not much for used gear..

.

I had a Delta Unisaw in my guest closet for over a year until my shop was finished.  I found it a habitat restore for $150.  I couldnt pass up that good of a deal.    Its not as nice as a Saw Stop but gets the job done.  It has a 3hp motor and I purchased a besemeyer fence and it turned out to be a great saw.

 

[Gary in Texas]

I've used a 3HP Jet cabinet saw for the past 16 years, it has handled anything and everything I've ever thrown at it.  I think 5HP is overkill.  If me, I would gladly spend the little extra on the new SawStop, rather than taking a chance on this used one that has experienced some issues.....  But, that's just MHO. 

 

[Iceclimber]

I am also very much a new tool kinda guy. Ill spend the $200-300 more on a new Festool than a used any day. My local Rockler has had 20% off various tools  for a number of months now and i have been tempted a couple times but yet to buy one. Actually I'm sorry i purchased m DTS400 being inexpensive by comparison to other Festools i figured it a small risk to purchase with no warranty.

Im gonna offer $1500 cash on the saw. If he accepts i will buy it, if not ill pass and purchase a 3 horse later brand new.

I also may be able to trade my time "man hours" toward the saw as the seller is a cabinet maker and I'm a carpenter on my way to being a cabinet maker. What i am that the seller is 100% interested in is a really really good finisher/painter of high end cabinet work and furniture. I don't care for doing the work anymore and avoid it at all costs in lue of carpentry and general renovation type work but once in a while i can still be persuaded to do finish paint and stain work. This may end up one of those times?

 

[Gary in Texas]

Trading your time and skills for the saw would be a great consideration.  But.....just think about the satisfaction and delight you would have when unboxing that brand new 3HP Professional SawStop in your garage/home shop!!!!!  I would have to go back and read again why the owner didn't go ahead and repair the SS in the first place.  Hard for me to imagine having such a saw and throwing it into a corner, and purchasing some replacement saw.

And a follow up to my above post/comments about the HP..... Saw manufacturers have for a long time provided two basic units, the contractor (usually 1-1/2 HP) or their cabinet saw (3HP).  The 5 or 7 HP units were for industrial applications and very uncommon in most small or hobby shops.  The SawStop 3HP "Professional" will more than adequately fit the bill in my opinion.  If I ever decide to sell my Jet Cabinet saw, it will be to replace it with the SS Professional.  I have my cabinet saw tricked out with the Excalibur dust collection system, with the 92" Incra rails, and while I definitely see the benefits of the SS safety, I'm pleased with my present set up.......

 

[Iceclimber]

I was able to take another look at the saw last night. I was also able to talk with someone that knows a bit of the history of the saw. This is what i found out.

The saw has had two problems. One has been fixed and no longer presents problems and the other has yet to even be attempted to repair for lack of interest. I guess the owner of this saw also has a Powermatic 66, a Delta Unisaw and just purchased a sliding table saw. The owner of all the saws is a cabinet maker but as i understand it does not make the cabinetss a employee does the building for him. This explains why this saw has just sat. I think the owner probably just likes tools like many of us around here. I think he has too many at this point and is willing tort with the SawStop as a result. I dont think he was selling the saw, tbh i think it was only me asking about it at the right time when he could use the money that made him consider sellig it.

So whats wrong with it. The first problem was the blad slipping when set to 0%. I guess this has been repaired by a qualified tool repair person and has since presesented no problems. I guess that was quite some time ago so ots nothing to worry about at this point.

The second problem persists but has been given zero attention and not even attemted to fix at this point. The crank or wheel that raises and lowers the blad is siply stuck. The side is not on the saw so i was able to poke my head under the saw and take a look. I could not see anything wrong with the gears that would cause this but i also only took a quick peak. This problem will be repaired before the saw is purchased.

Again i dont know what is causing this problem raising and lowering the blade and or how big a deal that is or is not to the overall integrity of the saw. Thats what i figured to date and the reality is nothing is going to happen with this saw or the purchase of it till asfter the new year as the owner is out of town.

Thoughts? 

 

[Gary in Texas]

A few thoughts.

Did this saw ever have an emergency stop (e.g. Brake caliper fired)?  Raising and lower the blade should be straightforward, just gears, unless there is something solid caught in the gears to prevent movement, or, if the caliper was fired (or whatever that terminology would be) has it resulted in kicking out of alignment and binding up?

If you can get the serial number off the saw, perhaps call Sawstop, see if they have any history on it, and ask them their opinion or possible causes that would prevent the blade from lowering/raising.

 

[waho6o9]

Buying cheap is expensive.

Good luck now.

 

[Iceclimber]

Baremeg

Good thoughts.

I can pull the serial number easy as i have access to the saw anytime.

As for buy cheap being expensive i agree hence i have to date made all my tools purchases new tools. Well i purchased a 70 year old jointer but only because new ones are mostly crap unless you want a big machine.

On the other hand my CT36 thats brand new is not working right. The reality is Festool will make it right even if it is a pain in the butt. A used SawStop not so much.

The good news is i looked at the wiring on my 220 20 amp circuit. Plan to ise for the saw. Its 10 gage so i can easily replace the 20 amp breaker with a 30 amp breaker. I have another 20amp 220 circuit i can run a 3 horse dust collector. I wont be able to get the ClearView i want but i can get Onieda 3 horse or so..

And im not saying I'm gonna buy the saw. I think i may request a certified service tech come repair the saw then run it through in front of me hot dog and all. If so then i suppose why not buy the saw?

 

[greg mann]

I just skimmed thru this thread but has anyone asked what microwave you have that needs a dedicated 220 20 amp circuit?

 

[waho6o9]

You're wise to have a certified tech service the

saw and if there's a green light given you'd be

good to go.

 

[Iceclimber]

Its actually a electrically powered rocket oven lol..

I have no idea but more than one electrician has told me it is so.

Im going to splice another box i to my dryer line as it will be within eye shot of the saw.

The dedicated line for my dust collection will be run off the microwave line. Sadly ill go for a 3 horse Oinida as apposed to the 5 horse ClearView. Im sure i will rgret that decision later when the money is freed up to go big with the electrical. On the other hand 3 horse should be just fine?

I just skimmed thru this thread but has anyone asked what microwave you have that needs a dedicated 220 20 amp circuit?

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

I have two 5hp direct drive table saws, one with a 14" blade one with a 16" blade both heavy cast iron saws. 

There are times I wish one had a 7.5hp motor.

 

[Birdhunter]

Regarding Baremeg55's comment on a Professional vs an Industrial Sawstop, I agree the Professional is a fine solution for most woodworkers. However, the Industrial model is a wonderful step up from the Professional and very suitable for the home shop. The Industrial table with the extension provides a much larger work surface and the much greater weight makes the saw almost vibration free.

If you can handle the added cost, the Industrial is worth it.

 

[Iceclimber]

I really appreciate people chiming in. This is a big purchase for me as this will be it for me for a long long time with regard to table saws. It will also be the end of my rainy day fund for about a year or so. Sure ill come up with more cash between npw and then but i will not be spending it.

A couple additional thoughts. The first one is on the horsepower. Part of me thinks i could purchase a brand new 3 horse saw for about 1K more than i will pay for this 5 horse used? On the other hand i have read some online reviews and people have talked about working with 8/4 hardwoods wishing for more horsepower with a 3 horse saw. Will i work with 8/4 stock on my TS everyday "no" but when i want to it sure will be nice to be able to.

My second train of thought is i could also buy a Hammer 48x48 for twice the price of this used SawStop. Sure its twice the price but its also brand new and a slider and would be the end all for me for sure forever or darn close to it. Am i going to buy that slider right now "nope" but could i within the year "yes"!

I could however get this 5 horse SawStop and add that new sliding attachment to it and have a pretty sweet saw for short money by comparison. Well $1500 less i suppose or there about.

I am sure i will add the heavy duty mobility kit to the used SawStop along with the over table dust collection deal, the dado insert and cartridge and a new blade. The thing is i can add all that over the course of time and don't have to splurge all at once.

 

[Gary in Texas]

Well, I'll chime in one last time on this discussion......

You could proceed with the rehab of this saw, at a lesser cost than the new one.  If what ails it is easily fixed, then, you would have the industrial version of the saw for a sweet price.  Once up and running, would you even consider "downgrading" to the professional version, even if brand new? 

WRT the Hammer 48x48, once you have the industrial up and running, I will speculate you would most likely get 100% return on your investment.  Others have said used SawStops retain their value well.  You could sell the industrial at a later time, recoup most/all/profit and then buy the Hammer......  That is a NICE saw.....

I've never had an issue cutting 8/4 Oak on my Jet cabinet saw, so, can't imagine why someone would voice that concern with the sawstop.  A 3HP saw and a good blade can rip 8/4 all day long!!!! 
How does the dust collection on this older model saw compare to the newest SawStops?  Did they make any enhancements to the design that would give you better dust collection with the newer model?  Just curious.

One last question, have you priced out all of the add ons you want/need for the used saw and compared that to the new professional?  They were giving the over the table DC or mobile base free (your choice) on new purchases, so, total cost may be closer than you estimated?  Good luck whichever way you decide to go.