Using 220v Festool in the US

[Intex]

When I was in grammer school, over 50 years ago, they asked us to start learning the metric system, since in the next year or two we would be converting.....
Just let Festool sell their 110V jobsite tools made for the UK here is all I ask.

 

[DeformedTree]

There really is no push for it, and in general very few people care. It's not like the inch/metric situation where it has a major impact on folks every day, commerce issues, general headaches in doing things.  The power grid situation is really a small impact all around as things that should be on 220 all ready are (HVAC, dryers, welders, ovens, cooktops, water heaters, EV car charging).  It's the general purpose appliances that aren't, and there just isn't a compelling reason to change.  It's not like those items are pulling massive amounts of amps where going 220 would make a big difference.

EV charging on 220V... how thick are you going to run that wire or how long are you willing to wait?

I mentioned EV car chargers.  Those are 220V.  Most run a NEMA 14-50 or 14-60 Plug.  Same plug used on welders and dryers and other items.  Some places now mandate garages have one of these plugs in the garage on new construction/remodels so it's there.

It's not that we don't have 220V, houses use it extensively, just not on general branch circuits (stuff we randomly plug into).

If you were thinking 220V isn't enough to charge a car, it's fine.  While not in use right now, the 220V AC based chargers can go up to 100Amps,  so 22kw,  which means a 90kwh Tesla can full charge on that in just over 4 hours, which is far less time than most folks sleep.  I don't think any country is running more than 240V into homes, so the US doesn't have an issue there.  And also you just get bigger amperage services.  I took mine from the lame 100A, to 200A normal service, but plenty of houses have 400A services (just 2 200A panels).  Wire is a none issue for one plug in a garage.  I don't see anyone installing DC fast chargers in their garage (unless maybe they have a battery bank as part of their house), since their is no reason for fast charging at homes, that's for long distance travel, and thats where you stop at "charge stations" along the way where they can charge a car in 30 mins or less.

 

[demographic]

When I was in grammer school, over 50 years ago, they asked us to start learning the metric system, since in the next year or two we would be converting.....
Just let Festool sell their 110V jobsite tools made for the UK here is all I ask.

I wouldn't hold your breath, try getting hold of a 110 volt charger From Festool over here, common in the US (or close enough) but like rocking horse poo over here. Lot handier for charging batteries as it doesn't involve a long walk down to the site office to charge up

I have a US spec charger for my De-Walt batteries, works a treat but Festool don't seem able to comprehend people buying other spec tools because its sometimes handier for the end user.

 

[jeh]

Just let Festool sell their 110V jobsite tools made for the UK here is all I ask.

I wouldn't hold your breath, try getting hold of a 110 volt charger From Festool over here, common in the US (or close enough) but like rocking horse poo over here. Lot handier for charging batteries as it doesn't involve a long walk down to the site office to charge up

I have a US spec charger for my De-Walt batteries, works a treat but Festool don't seem able to comprehend people buying other spec tools because its sometimes handier for the end user.

He wasn't asking about cordless, just corded tools.  Are you saying Festool doesn't offer the charger for battery powered tools in the UK that is a 110/120V version?  I can sorta see that as my understanding is the 110V UK job site deal is all about the cords, if folks ran all battery tools it would be a non issue.

Random curiosity, what plug do UK job site tools run?  Is it something special to the UK, or do you use a US spec plug. Based on you saying you have a US Dewalt charger, I'm assuming you use the US plug otherwise you would have to alter the cord and now your right back into a different job site violation (also assuming UK like the US says modified/DIY cords are a job site no no).

I believe they use a 220V step-down transformer with multiple 110V outlets. Kind of a fancy power strip. Their outlets and plugs are not like is used in the US. They are round and have a hole/pin for ground but it is only used for alignment. The plug and socket lock together. Photos attached.

 

[jeh]

When I was in grammer school, over 50 years ago, they asked us to start learning the metric system, since in the next year or two we would be converting.....
Just let Festool sell their 110V jobsite tools made for the UK here is all I ask.

They already are sold in the US with the difference being the cord.

 

[Svar]

They already are sold in the US with the difference being the cord.

The replacement part numbers of 110V electrical bits (rotor, etc.) are different in US and UK. Whether they are actually different I don't know.
What does the motor plate says on UK tools? 110V 50Hz?

 

[demographic]

He wasn't asking about cordless, just corded tools.  Are you saying Festool doesn't offer the charger for battery powered tools in the UK that is a 110/120V version?  I can sorta see that as my understanding is the 110V UK job site deal is all about the cords, if folks ran all battery tools it would be a non issue.

Random curiosity, what plug do UK job site tools run?  Is it something special to the UK, or do you use a US spec plug. Based on you saying you have a US Dewalt charger, I'm assuming you use the US plug otherwise you would have to alter the cord and now your right back into a different job site violation (also assuming UK like the US says modified/DIY cords are a job site no no).

I can buy a 230 nominal (or thereabouts) voltage battery charger, which is handy for charging in houses and so on but the problems come when I'm on a large site where they only have 110 volt leads, and all the live 230 volt sockets are a fair walk away in the site office. This is a waste of time for me.
Also I much prefer having my batteries and chargers close to where I'm working as theft can be a real problem.
Admittedly not so much for Festool tools as there's not many on sites so less people need the batteries to power a bleedin radio or whatever.
Realistically I like having both voltage chargers as it gives me more choice.

As for the US change to UK site plugs, yeah they need to be changed over but they have to be PAT tested every few months on site anyway and have to have a certification sticker showing compliance.

 

[Coen]

There really is no push for it, and in general very few people care. It's not like the inch/metric situation where it has a major impact on folks every day, commerce issues, general headaches in doing things.  The power grid situation is really a small impact all around as things that should be on 220 all ready are (HVAC, dryers, welders, ovens, cooktops, water heaters, EV car charging).  It's the general purpose appliances that aren't, and there just isn't a compelling reason to change.  It's not like those items are pulling massive amounts of amps where going 220 would make a big difference.

EV charging on 220V... how thick are you going to run that wire or how long are you willing to wait?

I mentioned EV car chargers.  Those are 220V.  Most run a NEMA 14-50 or 14-60 Plug.  Same plug used on welders and dryers and other items.  Some places now mandate garages have one of these plugs in the garage on new construction/remodels so it's there.

It's not that we don't have 220V, houses use it extensively, just not on general branch circuits (stuff we randomly plug into).

If you were thinking 220V isn't enough to charge a car, it's fine.  While not in use right now, the 220V AC based chargers can go up to 100Amps,  so 22kw,  which means a 90kwh Tesla can full charge on that in just over 4 hours, which is far less time than most folks sleep.  I don't think any country is running more than 240V into homes, so the US doesn't have an issue there.  And also you just get bigger amperage services.  I took mine from the lame 100A, to 200A normal service, but plenty of houses have 400A services (just 2 200A panels).  Wire is a none issue for one plug in a garage.  I don't see anyone installing DC fast chargers in their garage (unless maybe they have a battery bank as part of their house), since their is no reason for fast charging at homes, that's for long distance travel, and thats where you stop at "charge stations" along the way where they can charge a car in 30 mins or less.

Here we can get 3-phase 230V (so 400V between phases). Normal connection is either single phase 35/40A or three-phase 25A. If you want 3x35A or 1x50A, your fixed network cost go up by about $800 on a yearly basis. Yeah, beyond the fusebox basically nothing is bigger than 2.5mm2 here.

AC(*) is near-nonexistent, heating is all gas-based or district heating.

(*)Air conditioning

 

[DeformedTree]

Here we can get 3-phase 230V (so 400V between phases). Normal connection is either single phase 35/40A or three-phase 25A. If you want 3x35A or 1x50A, your fixed network cost go up by about $800 on a yearly basis. Yeah, beyond the fusebox basically nothing is bigger than 2.5mm2 here.

AC is near-nonexistent, heating is all gas-based or district heating.

Curious what country you are in.  I'm aware in some countries they have what you mention of 3Phase into houses, and then you just grab legs as needed.

Not running much on 40As.  Today US building code doesn't allow anything less than 100A/220V service to a home, I personally wish they would change it to 200A min, since builders cheap out and put 150A panels in, saving all of 5 to 10 USDs, but really limit the homeowners.

You can get 3P in the US, it's just hard, since it's really commercial only. So unless you just happen to have a 3P transmission passing along your property going to someplace you are out of luck or will spend many mountains of money to have run to where you are if they will even consider it.  Even a lot of commercial businesses can't get 3P since it's just not run everywhere.  Nearest connection for me would be 1/2mile straight line, but would take far more to run the lines too me, and I'm not even sure the particular feed is even active.

With your limitations, Festool might need to make gas powered track saws and routers.

 

[Coen]

Here we can get 3-phase 230V (so 400V between phases). Normal connection is either single phase 35/40A or three-phase 25A. If you want 3x35A or 1x50A, your fixed network cost go up by about $800 on a yearly basis. Yeah, beyond the fusebox basically nothing is bigger than 2.5mm2 here.

AC is near-nonexistent, heating is all gas-based or district heating.

Curious what country you are in.  I'm aware in some countries they have what you mention of 3Phase into houses, and then you just grab legs as needed.

Not running much on 40As.  My water heater alone pulls well over 100A, it's actually wired with 3 circuits of 40A @220V .  Basically because it's designed to run in countries with 3P options as you mentioned.  My current house was built in an area/time when they gave them 80A or 100A services because of Gas service.  That was quick to be fixed.  I grew up in rural areas, so 200A services were the norm from the 50s when they put the power in.  You either heated with wood or electric.  I'd love to have a 400A service but it just wasn't in the cards.  Today US building code doesn't allow anything less than 100A/220V service to a home, I personally wish they would change it to 200A min, since builders cheap out and put 150A panels in, saving all of 5 to 10 USDs, but really limit the homeowners.

You can get 3P in the US, it's just hard, since it's really commercial only. So unless you just happen to have a 3P transmission passing along your property going to someplace you are out of luck or will spend many mountains of money to have run to where you are if they will even consider it.  Even a lot of commercial businesses can't get 3P since it's just not run everywhere.  Nearest connection for me would be 1/2mile straight line, but would take far more to run the lines too me, and I'm not even sure the particular feed is even active.

With your limitations, Festool might need to make gas powered track saws and routers.

NL

Builders here cheap out on the 3 phase, capping them off and instead installing 1x40A... especially if you dare to not buy a kitchen from their preferred seller.

Grid company charges $230 to change it to 3x25A

Before gas, water tank was also electric, but main fuses often were single 25A then. Single 25 is now upgraded to single 35 for free.

But we have one of the (if not the) biggest % of households connected to our natural gas grid. Pretty much everyone has a gas-fired combi heater that can heat water on demand. 30 kW is pretty common. That alone 50% more than 200A at 110V.

Some older houses had hot tap water from an electric boiler (buffered) before switching to gas, you can still see the remains of those in many fuseboxes. There is an additional device that allows only powering that boiler at night (when electricity is cheap). With the removal of the boiler, that device often stayed behind. Now there is a big frenzy against gas, so some houses are getting back their boiler. A friend of mine rented a condo; it had a fully open gas-fired tankless water heater that was ripe for replacement. All his neighbours had gotten the electric water heating (buffered) that took up a huge space (and is also >2x as expensive). I advised him towards a closed circuit gas-fired tankless heater. He had already inquired for just a new open one, but nobody was selling to install that (good on them!). His landlord was quite happy to not having to do any investigating himself, so agreed with the quote my friend got for a new closed-circuit gas-fired tankless heater.

Another friend that rented a condo did still have that huge electric hot water boiler (buffer), including the device to power it at night only. But since that fusebox was ancient, it got replaced. The old setup had three 16A fuses (main fuses being 25A) and a fourth 16A fuse for the water heater. The new setup... had only 3 circuit brakers. So every time he would use the oven, the water cooker, the vacuum cleaner... anything significant in the kitchen... while the boiler was heating... it would trip the breaker. Goes a long way to show there are way too many idiots doing those replacements. He moved out shortly afterwards.