Using a Festool Router, Router Table combo as a shaper

[festool_SWFL]

Folks,
  In my area it is impossible to find finished hardwood.  Therefore the need has arisen to buy a planer (bench top) and come up with a method for the edge of the planks.  So I guess I am asking 2 questions, I need a quality planer, and someway to create a shaper.  I have very limited space, a 2 car garage and have to move my boat and wife's car out to make room to work.  I appreciate any insight you folks can give.  I have a of 1400, but would expect to need to add a of 2200 for the power from a shaping standpoint, however, do not know which router table I should consider for planer.

Thanks,

Wlliam

 

[mwhafner]

I guess you could use the router and a guide rail to edge joint the boards.  The boards would have to be pretty wide for this to effectively.  I have used a TS55 or TS75 to edge joint boards with great results.  The HL850 planer has a bench unit and fence that make it a very compact and serviceable jointer.

What type of bits do you think you will be using?  You shouldn't need to go up to the 2200 unless you are using large diameter bits.  It might be worthwhile to look at some of the portable router tables that are on the market.  Bosch and BenchDog, as well as several others, make good ones.  I am not sure about the benchtop model, but the larger BenchDog tables have a fence with jointer shims included.

 

[festool_SWFL]

I guess you could use the router and a guide rail to edge joint the boards.  The boards would have to be pretty wide for this to effectively.  I have used a TS55 or TS75 to edge joint boards with great results.  The HL850 planer has a bench unit and fence that make it a very compact and serviceable jointer.

What type of bits do you think you will be using?  You shouldn't need to go up to the 2200 unless you are using large diameter bits.  It might be worthwhile to look at some of the portable router tables that are on the market.  Bosch and BenchDog, as well as several others, make good ones.  I am not sure about the benchtop model, but the larger BenchDog tables have a fence with jointer shims included.

I never considered using my TS55 to clean rough sawn lumber on the edge.  I think I am ordering a 106" guide rail tomorrow to do just that.  It is so obvious and makes complete sense.  So as far as planers go . . bench top style . .  what would you guys recommend?

Thanks,

William

 

[mwhafner]

I had a Makita 12' that was stolen a couple of years ago, and loved it.  I replaced it with the Dewalt 734, and it is OK.  I wish I had bought another Makita. 

I think that there are several other forum members that really like the Rigid.

 

[Chris Hughes]

  I build most of my cabinetry on site so bringing the most equipment in the smallest space is important.  I have a Jesum Router lift built into my contractor saw that goes in the field with.  I use a 3 1/4hp PC router and a Freud fence.  This system works great because of it's very fine adjustablity.  I like the new four post Dewalt power plane.  C Hughes

 

[Eli]

I've owned both the Dewalt and the Makita, both are great. The Makita I would give a few extra points to, because the chip hood when removed can fit inside the flipped up tables. More easily portable. The Dewalt with hood attached can only close one side, and it's a bitch to remove. The Makita is more solidly built than the Dewalt, more metal but not much heavier. Both will work with a CT with a 50 hose.

AFA router tables and the 2200, I'm sure you guys will be getting the CMS at some point, and the 1400 and 2200 in a CMS router module are pretty bitchin'. There are certainly cheaper solutions in the States though.

 

[Chris Hughes]

  The Dewalt planer has a 4" hose, a sock that fit over a barrel and blower motor built-in to throw the chips.  Generally I don't remove anything for transport, including the infeed and outfeed table extensions.  The set up is a bit heavy though.  C Hughes

 

[Jim Becker]

Do keep in mind that a thickness planer will not get your rough lumber flat. (Yes, there are some techniques to use a specially constructed sled, etc., to do that on a planer, but it's not good for any kind of volume) A jointer is the right tool for flattening the face of your rough lumber before thicknessing. As to edges, a router table with an offset fence and a straight bit can be used to straighten an edge and make it perpendicular to the (flattened) face of a board. The limitation is in board length which would be typically twice the length of the router table fence. Longer than that, your results may start to vary.

Using the TS and rail is a very workable method for edging a board. A slow steady cut should leave you a nice gluing surface. You can always use a second board from the batch to provide more stability for the rail. That said, even this technique is dependent on the board being flat for best results with your edge. Remember, you're not just trying to get the edge straight along the length of the board; you're also working to get that edge perpendicular to the board's faces at the same time.

 

[nickao]

To me the best way to prepare rough lumber is with a jointer and a planer and a drum sander to boot. Unlike a planer a drum sander will flatten lumber.

Using the correct tools  is just to fast to mess with a router table or any other method. Get a 6" or 8" joiner, and a 16" planer and you are good to go. If you can not fit that in your space or afford the cost, get a small 4" or 6" jointer and and a 13" bench planer.

I can prepare a room full of rough lumber with the right tools before you can get the router table set up right, again the best tools for preparing rough lumber are planer and jointer any other method is a sacrifice in speed.

The money I saved in 6 months buying rough lumber paid for the jointer and planer.