Using A New Dado Technique...New To Me... (Router)

[darita]

OK...So I was trying to figure out a different way to do some dados, other than on the TS.  I liked some of the jigs I've seen, but didn't want to buy another jig.  I already have a Festool OF1400 and guide rail, so I figured out a way to do the same thing that jigs do, without the jig.  The technique can be done with other routers using guide rails.  I'm sure a lot of you have already figured this out, but this is new to me, so I thought I'd share...
I set up the router as usual, using the router "Guide Rail Stop", which is Festool's name for the router guide rail adapter.  Since I'm using a 1/2" upcut bit for a 3/4" dado, I use a 1/2" gauge block to space the router exactly 1/2" from the rail edge. 

I then run the first pass.  For the second pass, I replace the gauge block with a piece of the actual material that's going to fit into the dado, along with a .008" feeler gauge piece, for glue spacing and plywood imperfections.

After making the second pass, I get a dado that is consistently just the right size for that piece of plywood.

Comments?

 

[Administrator_JSVN]

Good post. Just another thing to consider... There are center lines on all four sides of your router's base. You can use that to align the center of the bit to a cut line.

You can see the technique at 10:50 in the video below.

 

[nclemmons]

Really slick tip - I'll definitely be using the guide block offset idea.

thanks!

neil

 

[darita]

Glad you like it.  It's so simple, I'm sure a lot of others here have done the same.  While I was researching some of the dado jigs, a light just went on in my head.  All of the "tight dado" jigs seemed to use a gauge block and a piece of material the dado was to fit, so those two pieces must be the key.  I think it will work great no matter the dado size, as long as your gauge block matches your appropriate size.

 

[rajuliano]

This technique seems great for getting a perfectly sized dado width. I'm interested to give it a try on some cabinets builds I have coming up.

One question, though. How are you accurately locating the dado? I've used the centerlines on the router base in the past like Shane mentions, but that line doesn't seem like it would apply in this case.

 

[darita]

Pretty simple to place the dado. First I did a test cut, then I measured from splitter guard edge to dado edge. Mine was 3 3/16", so I just measure that amount from my desired dado edge, make my marks and place the splitter guard edge on the mark. Took me a couple of test cuts to get the dado width to fit my uneven plywood just right, but once I had the spacer size I needed, I was able to repeat the cut over and over. Depending on the spacer I use, I can make the dado as tight or as loose as I like. Hope that helps.

 

[woodwreck]

I hate to nit pick, but no one seems to have noticed that the router mounted as shown in your pic is inoperable if you need to use the vernier adjustment thumb wheel to adjust the width of cut. It has to move forward to riding on one track ridge to allow movement of the non fixed head. See the video at the 11 min mark.  [blink]  [eek]

 

[darita]

I hate to nit pick, but no one seems to have noticed that the router mounted as shown in your pic is inoperable if you need to use the vernier adjustment thumb wheel to adjust the width of cut. It has to move forward to riding on one track ridge to allow movement of the non fixed head. See the video at the 11 min mark.  [blink]  [eek]

Woodwreck!  Another NorCal guy!  Hey, I'm in Roseville!  Anyways, I know that the adjustment is not usable in this configuration, however I'm set up this way just for the added stability of the second rail to help offset the weight of the router and the cutting resistance.  I don't need the adjustment.  The fine adjustment is done via the use of a piece of feeler gauge.  Next time, I'll double-stick-tape the feeler gauge to the little plywood block.  I know it's not an elegant solution, but it is simple and completely repeatable.  I get my feeler gauges at Harbor Freight, so I don't mind cutting them up for uses like this one.

 

[mouppe]

I hate to nit pick, but no one seems to have noticed that the router mounted as shown in your pic is inoperable if you need to use the vernier adjustment thumb wheel to adjust the width of cut. It has to move forward to riding on one track ridge to allow movement of the non fixed head. See the video at the 11 min mark.  [blink]  [eek]

Woodwreck!  Another NorCal guy!  Hey, I'm in Roseville!  Anyways, I know that the adjustment is not usable in this configuration, however I'm set up this way just for the added stability of the second rail to help offset the weight of the router and the cutting resistance.  I don't need the adjustment.  The fine adjustment is done via the use of a piece of feeler gauge.  Next time, I'll double-stick-tape the feeler gauge to the little plywood block.  I know it's not an elegant solution, but it is simple and completely repeatable.  I get my feeler gauges at Harbor Freight, so I don't mind cutting them up for uses like this one.

Nit-pick number 2  ...using the small-bore base in combination with the original base does not bring you level with the guide rail. Close but not high enough!

It's a topic exhaustively covered on the FOG but you need the widening base or the little foot, or a home-made solution.

 

[mc]

This is a good solution.  What I do however, since I don't have a festool router is use the Bridge City Tools Kerfmaker in conjunction with the MFT and TS55 to define the outer edges of the dado.  Then I hog out the middle part with a router.  Either freehand or with a pattern bit riding along a piece of scrap clamped along the edges.

 

[darita]

I hate to nit pick, but no one seems to have noticed that the router mounted as shown in your pic is inoperable if you need to use the vernier adjustment thumb wheel to adjust the width of cut. It has to move forward to riding on one track ridge to allow movement of the non fixed head. See the video at the 11 min mark.  [blink]  [eek]

Woodwreck!  Another NorCal guy!  Hey, I'm in Roseville!  Anyways, I know that the adjustment is not usable in this configuration, however I'm set up this way just for the added stability of the second rail to help offset the weight of the router and the cutting resistance.  I don't need the adjustment.  The fine adjustment is done via the use of a piece of feeler gauge.  Next time, I'll double-stick-tape the feeler gauge to the little plywood block.  I know it's not an elegant solution, but it is simple and completely repeatable.  I get my feeler gauges at Harbor Freight, so I don't mind cutting them up for uses like this one.

Nit-pick number 2  ...using the small-bore base in combination with the original base does not bring you level with the guide rail. Close but not high enough!

It's a topic exhaustively covered on the FOG but you need the widening base or the little foot, or a home-made solution.

Richard, I didn't know that!  I'm sure you're right, as you guys know better than I.  In my defense, I purchased the Hard Fiber Base Runner on the description given...
"Type LA-OF 1400 hard fiber base runner for use with OF 1400 EQ Router. The hard fiber base has two purposes: It gives a smaller opening than the standard router if needed. Also, this base is the same thickness when attached to the standard sub-base as the guide rail (5mm) and will allow the router to be used further away from the guide rail when extended to end of the rods."
As it is, I didn't notice any problem of which you speak.  Also, when I routed the dados, I pressed down down while pushing, on the router top.  I'm sure that the router base was completely flat during use.  Thanks for the heads up.

 

[darita]

Just thought of something!  If I put a couple of stops on the rod/rods, I can set the stops once, then repeat the dados over and over.  Can anyone come up with easy stops for the rod/rods?

 

[darita]

Actually, if Festool came up with the stops and a couple of other pieces, that would be it.  They already have everything else that's required. 

 

[John Stevens]

Just thought of something!  If I put a couple of stops on the rod/rods, I can set the stops once, then repeat the dados over and over.  Can anyone come up with easy stops for the rod/rods?

  Yeah, just a piece of wood with a 5/16" hole in it for the rod to pass through, and perpendicular to that hole, drill another one and tap it for a bolt to tighten down.  You may already have made a pair of something like this for edge routing.  I'll try to attach a picture of a different jig that is the same concept.

BTW, great idea you have here!  It's so obvious once you show it, I'm kicking myself.

Regards,

John