Using a square to position the Domino

[Brice Burrell]

After finishing some dominos today I was thinking why not use my MFS as a backer........course I thought of it after I was done.  Question I have the smaller MFS set and needed more than the 400 to span the length. Is there a connector to link two 400s together?

Len

I've done that myself with Qwas dogs.  As Peter said the guide rail connectors work in the MFS profiles as well.
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[Brice Burrell]

great tip there seth

i was thinking about this last night in bed
i was thinking of using one of the mfs profiles as the fence . put some kind of 90 reference edge to creat a square of sorts.
then get some stops that go on either side of the domino to locate it. this way all the slots would be in the same location

Yeah with stops on both sides of the Domino it would help prevent any side shifting while plunging.  A jig  as you suggest with built-in  squaring and sliding stops ( T- Track?) would be quite good.

The clamped square is so easy , simple, and adaptable (+ it really works well) that it is hard for me to want to bother even making a jig.  Especially since the measurement location can be so easily transfered to mating pieces.

Perhaps a carpenters/speed square could be used as a good basis for the jig?

Seth

I think stair gauges would might a quick and easy set of stops, and a lot of us already have them laying around.

 

[festoolviking]

I posted this in another thread but it's a pretty simple jig. It's a piece of plywood with the edge routed to fit the edge of the guide-rail. Two holes with M5 screws, nuts and washers used as a grip when tightening it to the domino. You could probably redesign it to fit the MFS.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/cvjl9xyudeqikp6/Photo%202013-01-23%2018%2023%2018.jpg

https://www.dropbox.com/s/4f515nyug8lra1l/Photo%202013-01-23%2018%2023%2002.jpg

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ff1629q3zh13ybl/Photo%202013-01-23%2018%2022%2018.jpg

Festoolviking

 

[rmwarren]

Seth's tip got me thinking whilst having a cigar in the shop last night @ 20 degrees...

I took a couple of the stops I made for another project with Incra track and cut off the portion that extended below the t-track so they are flush. Then using a couple unaltered stops aligned the track to the panel to be dominoed.

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Overall it worked great, I plunged 3 mortises in each piece and they aligned perfectly. The downside is the spacing is not ideal, I would rather have the outboard mortises closer to the panel edge.

Seth, thanks for sharing the idea.

RMW

 

[barnowl]

I got this method from another FOG member but I forget who it was and can't find the thread that it was posted in. I thought it might be good to have this particular method in its own topic for easy reference since it works so well.

Works best with 3/4", 18mm, 19mm, 20mm material. The fact that the centerline of the mortise is 10mm from the base plate of the Domino allows for centering and near enough  centering with all of those thicknesses. Most of the time when placing I have found that being a millimeter off for this type of joint location doesn't really matter as long as everything matches up.  

Only marking needed is to mark the location of the top or bottom edge of the piece being connected. Just be sure to be consistent in using the top or bottom. And be consistent in placing the square against the front or back edge. The measurements on the square can be aligned with the centerline on the Domino base plate so no marking for each individual location is needed, and the square keeps everything lined up across the piece.

In this case I went with three Dominoes across the piece at 100mm, 200mm, and 300mm. By doing that I was able to use the same square to mark the Domino locations for the end mortises in the mating piece. Again front edge back edge consistency is important.

The clamp keeps the square firmly in place the thick square gives something solid to push against. A thick square works the best. A large speed square would also work well. If the same locations are used frequently a piece of 3/4" plywood (or several) could be cut and used the same way as a spacer to dispense  all together with marking. Just need to make sure the plywood spacer is squared  perfectly to the work piece.

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Seth

While I like the idea, let me add that I find it better to mark the piece with the square, and then use the mating board as the fence.

Once the dominoes are cut in the workpiece...

...just flip the Domino over, and cut matching dominoes in the mating piece, which insures perfect mating...

 

[Sparktrician]

RMW, I'm fascinated by the 80/20 pieces you're using to raise the material.  It's a great idea for making an extended cutting table.  How are you attaching them to the MFT?  Your idea about using Incra track is great.  I think I'll pirate your idea. 

[smile]

 

[GPowers]

I like the T-Track and the stops!

 

[rmwarren]

RMW, I'm fascinated by the 80/20 pieces you're using to raise the material.  It's a great idea for making an extended cutting table.  How are you attaching them to the MFT?  Your idea about using Incra track is great.  I think I'll pirate your idea. 

[smile]

Thanks Sparky, there is another thread where the info on the 80/20 extensions is posted:

http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-jigs-tool-enhancements/has-anyone-built-gary-katz's-assembly-and-cutting-table/

RMW

 

[Sparktrician]

RMW, I'm fascinated by the 80/20 pieces you're using to raise the material.  It's a great idea for making an extended cutting table.  How are you attaching them to the MFT?  Your idea about using Incra track is great.  I think I'll pirate your idea. 

[smile]

Thanks Sparky, there is another thread where the info on the 80/20 extensions is posted:

http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-jigs-tool-enhancements/has-anyone-built-gary-katz's-assembly-and-cutting-table/

RMW

Got it.  Thanks. 

[smile]