Erik The Red
Member
- Joined
- Oct 6, 2025
- Messages
- 8
Ah yea... My only idea is if someone in this modern age could 3D print a frontal handle for RO90 like 150 has then it would be gamechanger.
Using an ETS EC 150/5 for Car Paint Detailing - Could Use Some Advice Please
- Thread starter atacama40
- Start date
Packard
Member
I don’t see the point in this.
I have a 10” Ryobi elliptical buffer/polisher for about 10 years. I see that Amazon sells the contemporary version for $60.00.
The elliptical motion is far less likely to result in swirl marks on automotive finishes. If you are not a pro, it is a better choice. Unless you are doing tiny crevasses, the 10” makes sense for bodywork. I think autobody shops like to use air driven devices and rotary air driven motors are easier to produce than elliptical.
In any case, this would be an easy decision for me: Buy the dedicated buffer (which runs cooler than most shop tools).
I have a 10” Ryobi elliptical buffer/polisher for about 10 years. I see that Amazon sells the contemporary version for $60.00.
The elliptical motion is far less likely to result in swirl marks on automotive finishes. If you are not a pro, it is a better choice. Unless you are doing tiny crevasses, the 10” makes sense for bodywork. I think autobody shops like to use air driven devices and rotary air driven motors are easier to produce than elliptical.
In any case, this would be an easy decision for me: Buy the dedicated buffer (which runs cooler than most shop tools).
Erik The Red
Member
- Joined
- Oct 6, 2025
- Messages
- 8
Forced rotation machines are a thing, Rupes has one, Flex etc. No swirling or other dangers that you have with rotary and no pad stall.
It'll be interesting as to how it performs after the Festool service...maybe the heat issue will be minimized.I owned one of the original Fein multitools that had an aluminum head and after using if continuously for about 10-15 minutes I'd have to put on heavy leather gloves to continue the work. It didn't burn your hands but it was very uncomfortable...just part of its heritage I think.
I've used cerium oxide before and my experience is that if you can feel the scratch with your finger nail it's very unlikely you'll be able to completely remove the scratch. It'll look better because the surrounding area and parts of the scratch will be polished but you'll still feel the scratch.
Here's a thread (reply 283) of some mineral etching that I successfully removed from several glasses using a RO 90, a blue foam pad & some 3M cerium oxide.
Hi Cheese, well the repair came back and was a bit of an anti-climax really. The unit came back cleaned, tested and a couple of small minor parts replaced that I interpreted as consumable parts. The repair itself was amazingly cheap....some £60 including shipping. Can't accuse Festool of profiteering on these things.
Now I say all that, it may have addressed the heating issue, maybe one of the consumable items was a grease pack or suchlike. They didn't actually itemise the small parts. When they advise repair cost, there is a text box to ask the engineer any follow up questions and I've asked about that.
I've not got any specific to test it on right now. Well bar actually doing the glass refinishing work and the paint correction itself that is but time is a little tight on that job right now. But at least I'm geared up with equipment that looks right, the skill set from you and the folks on FOG. I just need get the pads and compounds now which will be down very shortly. Still intimidates me approaching the glass and paint but I'll need get over that .... I guess it's the one way nature of the material unlike wood
Cheese
Member
@atacama40 glad to hear you've received the sander back... ...however, I can't stress enough that you should take an hour or 2 and fully test it out before any time goes by.
As an example, I purchased a CXS 12 drill, had some issues with it and sent it into Festool Service. I received it back 7 days later with a list of small items they replaced and a note stating that it had been serviced & tested. I immediately used it on a project and noticed that while it was better, there were still some problems with it. I immediately sent it in to Festool Service again with a rather lengthy letter pointing out the exact issues I was experiencing. About 2 weeks later I received a new CXS drill set complete with new batteries and charger. I have to believe that the protracted issues I had with the drill weighed in on Festool's ultimate decision.
...however, I can't stress enough that you should take an hour or 2 and fully test it out before any time goes by.As an example, I purchased a CXS 12 drill, had some issues with it and sent it into Festool Service. I received it back 7 days later with a list of small items they replaced and a note stating that it had been serviced & tested. I immediately used it on a project and noticed that while it was better, there were still some problems with it. I immediately sent it in to Festool Service again with a rather lengthy letter pointing out the exact issues I was experiencing. About 2 weeks later I received a new CXS drill set complete with new batteries and charger. I have to believe that the protracted issues I had with the drill weighed in on Festool's ultimate decision.
@atacama40 glad to hear you've received the sander back...
As an example, I purchased a CXS 12 drill, had some issues with it and sent it into Festool Service. I received it back 7 days later with a list of small items they replaced and a note stating that it had been serviced & tested. I immediately used it on a project and noticed that while it was better, there were still some problems with it. I immediately sent it in to Festool Service again with a rather lengthy letter pointing out the exact issues I was experiencing. About 2 weeks later I received a new CXS drill set complete with new batteries and charger. I have to believe that the protracted issues I had with the drill weighed in on Festool's ultimate decision.
Is a good call Cheese ... I can see how things could go horribly wrong by not doing that. Especially with a machine with the power the 150 has.
Thats the ripper right there. You are unstoppable with that, on anything. Mine have some nasty resonance (from time to time) from somekind of washer under the pad, maybe i should ship it in. Bought it in March
Remove dust port or not, use Festool own polishing system or Koch or whatever, you can make serious corrections with that. Get a pair of ear muffs and frontal handle.
I grinded off eem, i think seven different coats of paint with it today. From Triumph Spitfire. Used bit of RO 90 and Rupes long block and two Deoses also. We are working with what we have there on panel because budget does not favor full strip down. Sorry that theres only pictures of other tools, Festos were hanging on my cart, behind me.
Regarding lights. RO 90, soft pad or interface and let it rip in rotex mode on the haze. P500. Do it once in fine mode also. Then get 800 and get the previous marks out. If you want to be pedantic, continue with finer grits (i did it on this Toyota). Mask it and shoot 1.5 to 2 coats of 2K acrylic clear. Later in life theres enought to buff when the need arises.
Paintbooth isnt a must.
Just re-reading your post Erik. Almost an obvious question maybe but would removing the headlight be a better option? More time consuming and I imagine in a business body shop, leaving it in would be less in way of man hours. But for a home solution, would refinishing the units on a bench be better? I guess it would allow easier warm dry air to be focused on the unit for the clear coat as well maybe? Our workshop does not have heating .... well not very effective heating but localised heating with a heat gun an similar we can do.
Packard
Member
I compounded and waxed my car last year. I used the white “finishing” (read “less aggressive”) compound. I used the Ryobi elliptical for that. For the detail work in the hard to reach areas, I went “old school” and did it by hand.
In my opinion it made sense, did not take long, and satisfied my need for hands on craftsmanship.
The biggest issue with machine compounding is the risk of burning through the top coat, especially easy to burn through a clear coat.
In any case the elliptical buffers are less likely to be over aggressive.
In any case the less aggressive polishing compound is likely to be safer for the finish, especially if machine applied. It is pretty easy to burn through the clear coat.
cougarchemical.com
In my opinion it made sense, did not take long, and satisfied my need for hands on craftsmanship.
The biggest issue with machine compounding is the risk of burning through the top coat, especially easy to burn through a clear coat.
In any case the elliptical buffers are less likely to be over aggressive.
In any case the less aggressive polishing compound is likely to be safer for the finish, especially if machine applied. It is pretty easy to burn through the clear coat.
The Difference Between Rubbing and Polishing Compound
Whether you work as an auto dealer or own a car wash company, you should know the difference between rubbing and polishing compounds. Click here for more!
cougarchemical.com
Erik The Red
Member
- Joined
- Oct 6, 2025
- Messages
- 8
Well yea, sure. Smaller item to work or mask. Thats true. Maybe even movable to bit more warmer/ergonomic area.
Just be sure its clean and well ventilated.
In my case, if client brings them separately then its fine by me. Bit finnicky to have them in lap for sanding but whatever.
If they order to be removed- can do that. Usually it means that i place car on my platform lift, remove two front wheels (or not because i have Insider), remove partially wheel liners and whole front bumper. Because headlights in 90% have bolts under bumper too (exept some Lolvos, Porsches/Vags).
Yes I did wonder about how to secure it but we,ll fettle something up. It just struck me as not having a pro workshop like yours, I would be less likely damaging surrounding bodywork. That said I've not looked at the securing mechanisms .... these things can be the easiest or a nightmare to remove. I suspect on a small car like this one it should be fairly straightforward .... famous last words
