Using Planex to remove popcorn ceilings and have some questions

KG29

Member
Joined
Dec 19, 2016
Messages
27
Hi,

I have access to use a Planex on removing our popcorn ceilings from the 80's and have some general questions using the machine.

The ceiling is unpainted and can be scrapped by hand very easily, What grit paper would I use on the machine? also after removing the texture and feathering the joints with new mud what should be my finish grit for a nice smooth shine.

I had also planned on using the machine with my CT26, should I stick with my original plan or look into the CT36. These are small rooms 300 S.q ft and maybe 400 s.q ft so using the autoclean bags are fine with me.

I did put little nick's in the drywall doing the dry scraping as I wanted to install crown moulding prior to get the ceilings done. I gave up after finding out I could used the festool planex. The marks in the drywall are where you can see the brown paper, they look like little dimes to quarter size. Just not sure if I apply a little mud or would 220grit take care of those.

thank you [cool]
 
KG29 said:
... The ceiling is unpainted and can be scrapped by hand ...

How hard is scraping it my hand?

Some wide scraper on a pole sound faster than using a sander. You may actually need to use a sander... at some point... but that will likely be after a few minutes with the scraper and you have a trash can 1/2 full of larger pieces that otherwise would have been made into dust by a sander.
 
As far as scraping, people have posted here about wetting the popcorn with a spray bottle of water and then scraping it with a putty knife. Worth a try.
As far as minor divots or gouges, I think your plan of filling and sanding will work well.
Although the Auto 36 vac is the preferred vac to pair with the Planex, you should be fine with the 26 since your rooms are small. Worst case you end up taking the filters out of the vac and cleaning them during the job due to fine dust caking the main filters.
 
Hi guys,

I have zero interest in hand scraping, that's why I'm using the planex. I mentioned that because I know you need different grit sandpaper for painted ceilings.
 
The Planex takes a bit of getting used to, you will have some gouges. For ceiling work I have used 80 or 60 grit to remove popcorn. I think the bag in the CT26 will plug up very fast. I have the 33AC and when removing popcorn in a 12 x 18 room the vac sucked up everything except a small pile that was swept up. The harness makes it much easier to control and much easier on the arms. For finishing I use 220. Check out sasktaper, he has some good videos and advice.
 
If it truly is non painted, spray with water and it will scrape right off. What age is the home? In older homes the popcorn was mixed with asbestos...you don't want to be sanding that stuff!
 
overanalyze said:
If it truly is non painted, spray with water and it will scrape right off. What age is the home? In older homes the popcorn was mixed with asbestos...you don't want to be sanding that stuff!

Did that back in October above the stairs, came off like butter. Most fell on me instead of the paint tray through. I also always wear my mask as I read that about older houses and asbestos.
 
Ash Dash said:
The Planex takes a bit of getting used to, you will have some gouges. For ceiling work I have used 80 or 60 grit to remove popcorn. I think the bag in the CT26 will plug up very fast. I have the 33AC and when removing popcorn in a 12 x 18 room the vac sucked up everything except a small pile that was swept up. The harness makes it much easier to control and much easier on the arms. For finishing I use 220. Check out sasktaper, he has some good videos and advice.

Very interesting... I never thought something as cause as 60 or 80 grit. Had hoped to hear 120,150 grit. I didn't realize there's a learning curve either, I used the porter cable 7800 before and thought that was fine. Just had issues with the speed and figuring out the settings.

I looked up sasktaper but didn't find anyone on the festool forum, only comes back to my topic.

About the harness, my ceilings are only 8ft high it wasn't something I even thought about.
 
Here's the marks I was talking about after dry scrapping the boarder around the room, the pictures didn't rotate correctly after uploading.

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KG29 said:
overanalyze said:
If it truly is non painted, spray with water and it will scrape right off. What age is the home? In older homes the popcorn was mixed with asbestos...you don't want to be sanding that stuff!

Did that back in October above the stairs, came off like butter. Most fell on me instead of the paint tray through. I also always wear my mask as I read that about older houses and asbestos.

All this and you still do not want to scrap it off, but prefer to sand it as fine as possible?
 
I wanted to say for my very first big topic on Festool. I'm very disappointed with the help I've gotten. I've been more then nice and reply instantly with more information.

I've received maybe two good replies (Ash dash, Leakyroof) and the other replies just keep saying "scrap the ceiling"

I have access to a $1600 machine that creates (little to zero dust) but will use a $8 scrapper :-\ and a pole for sanding [sad]

Can the mods please move this topic to the general area to help get more exposure [big grin]

To the members that did really want to help with my Festool Planex project thank-you :)

 
Sorry you're feeling that way.
Whether is apparent or not l, I believe most here are trying to offer constructive help, so while appreciate your perspective of critique on my delivery was more towards terse than with any ill intent.

I suppose if you take a sample of the popcorn in and it contains no asbestos then sanding it is a viable plan... Even if it takes longer. ;)

Eventually you will need to sand it.
If it does have asbestos, then even though the sander get 99% that can still be a bit more asbestos that I would want to have flocked upon my head and shoulders.

Luckily you what you pay for with respect to my advice.
 
KG29 said:
Ash Dash said:
The Planex takes a bit of getting used to, you will have some gouges. For ceiling work I have used 80 or 60 grit to remove popcorn. I think the bag in the CT26 will plug up very fast. I have the 33AC and when removing popcorn in a 12 x 18 room the vac sucked up everything except a small pile that was swept up. The harness makes it much easier to control and much easier on the arms. For finishing I use 220. Check out sasktaper, he has some good videos and advice.

Very interesting... I never thought something as cause as 60 or 80 grit. Had hoped to hear 120,150 grit. I didn't realize there's a learning curve either, I used the porter cable 7800 before and thought that was fine. Just had issues with the speed and figuring out the settings.

I looked up sasktaper but didn't find anyone on the festool forum, only comes back to my topic.

About the harness, my ceilings are only 8ft high it wasn't something I even thought about.

Thanks to Cheese for the correction to saskataper. He does have some great info on using the Planex.

Since I have a Planex I would NEVER consider scrapping a popcorn ceiling again. I have not used the PC one, But the best thing about the Planex is there is very little dust in the room and very little to clean up afterwards. Most ceilings that I do are 8' and I found it a lot easier to handle with the harness, the weight of the machine is put onto your shoulders and you just control the back and forth motion with your arms. The last one I did I found that even with the CT36AC I still had to disconnect the hose and do a deep cycle clean every 10-15 mins. Thats why I think it will plug up the bags in the CT26 pretty quick. In the AC you dont use the same bags, just a plastic bag that is open to the filter. If you use a AC make sure that you leave the contacts exposed at the hose end when you put the plastic bag in.  And as far as the others saying to scrape, most people are not going to spend 3 grand to sand a ceiling, and I don't blame them. But if you have access to the right equipment why not use it. I know when I am in a customers home and remove the popcorn or do drywall sanding the are very impressed with the lack of dust that I create using the right equipment.
 
Last winter I undertook removing the popcorn ceilings in our house I built 24 years ago. I purchased the Planex and the recommended dust extractor but not the harness.  After one hour, I cleaned it out and took it back under the 30 day return policy.  My arms were spent and I gouged the ceiling several times.  A few times (when I turned the dust collector to the wrong setting) dust went everywhere.  I was unaware of the pulse setting that cleans the filter every few seconds and had it set to the normal vacuum setting which clogged the filter quickly.  I really believe the harness would have made it easier on your arms, but they didn't have one in stock.  Also, I believe if I practiced more it would have gotten better but I took a 1 gallon sprayer and my wife and I scraped it in no time.  It took much longer putting down painter cloths and plastic on the walls than scraping.  Also found painters cloths needed plastic tarps to keep the dust from getting in the hardwood floors.  I made several mistakes which if were avoided may have made the Planex a pleasurable experience.  Learn from my errors.
 
jwaite550 said:
Last winter I undertook removing the popcorn ceilings in our house I built 24 years ago. I purchased the Planex and the recommended dust extractor but not the harness.  After one hour, I cleaned it out and took it back under the 30 day return policy.  My arms were spent and I gouged the ceiling several times.  A few times (when I turned the dust collector to the wrong setting) dust went everywhere.  I was unaware of the pulse setting that cleans the filter every few seconds and had it set to the normal vacuum setting which clogged the filter quickly.  I really believe the harness would have made it easier on your arms, but they didn't have one in stock.  Also, I believe if I practiced more it would have gotten better but I took a 1 gallon sprayer and my wife and I scraped it in no time.  It took much longer putting down painter cloths and plastic on the walls than scraping.  Also found painters cloths needed plastic tarps to keep the dust from getting in the hardwood floors.  I made several mistakes which if were avoided may have made the Planex a pleasurable experience.  Learn from my errors.

Just about the same as my first experience, only thing is I went back and bought the harness, practiced a lot, and have enjoyed it ever since. The other thing I did was switch to Mirka Abranet on the 120 and above sanding.
 
Ash Dash said:
jwaite550 said:
Last winter I undertook removing the popcorn ceilings in our house I built 24 years ago. I purchased the Planex and the recommended dust extractor but not the harness.  After one hour, I cleaned it out and took it back under the 30 day return policy.  My arms were spent and I gouged the ceiling several times.  A few times (when I turned the dust collector to the wrong setting) dust went everywhere.  I was unaware of the pulse setting that cleans the filter every few seconds and had it set to the normal vacuum setting which clogged the filter quickly.  I really believe the harness would have made it easier on your arms, but they didn't have one in stock.  Also, I believe if I practiced more it would have gotten better but I took a 1 gallon sprayer and my wife and I scraped it in no time.  It took much longer putting down painter cloths and plastic on the walls than scraping.  Also found painters cloths needed plastic tarps to keep the dust from getting in the hardwood floors.  I made several mistakes which if were avoided may have made the Planex a pleasurable experience.  Learn from my errors.

Just about the same as my first experience, only thing is I went back and bought the harness, practiced a lot, and have enjoyed it ever since. The other thing I did was switch to Mirka Abranet on the 120 and above sanding.
. Mirka has discs that fit the Planex????.  I didn't know that... [eek]
 
KG, I know that advice dispensed on forums can come across as snarky and unhelpful at times.  You've asked a question at a forum that has a lot of smart and successful people on it that have a vast collection of knowledge and years worth of experience.  Think of that as an entry ticket to Festool in the first place. 

You've come to the wrong place if you simply wanted a pat on the back , yes men, or simply were looking for help desk like info such as just buy Festool paper " 456789" and have at it.  It's not that kind of place.

The years of experience has taught some of these guys that a planex like sander for popcorn ceiling removal in just one room isn't really worth the effort and expense for a one time job.  You seem set on using your free planex and that's fine , but it still isn't the best tool or technique for a one room application in many guy's minds. Especially since you have no experience using that tool - which isn't easy or intuitive. And that's the advice you're getting. 

My tip to you is to prime all of those spots and gouges before you cover them with compound. Raw exposed brown paper in the Sheetrock doesn't play well with the compound.

Are you going to paint the ceiling with an airless spray rig ?

edit: - sorry Ash, the altitude was gettin to me while typing.
 
antss said:
Ash, I know that advice dispensed on forums can come across as snarky and unhelpful at times.  You've asked a question at a forum that has a lot of smart and successful people on it that have a vast collection of knowledge and years worth of experience.  Think of that as an entry ticket to Festool in the first place. 

You've come to the wrong place if you simply wanted a pat on the back , yes men, or simply were looking for help desk like info such as just buy Festool paper " 456789" and have at it.  It's not that kind of place.

The years of experience has taught some of these guys that a planex like sander for popcorn ceiling removal in just one room isn't really worth the effort and expense for a one time job.  You seem set on using your free planex and that's fine , but it still isn't the best tool or technique for a one room application in many guy's minds. Especially since you have no experience using that tool - which isn't easy or intuitive. And that's the advice you're getting. 

My tip to you is to prime all of those spots and gouges before you cover them with compound. Raw exposed brown paper in the Sheetrock doesn't play well with the compound.

Are you going to paint the ceiling with an airless spray rig ?

Is this directed at me?
Ash

No Problem antss
 
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