Using routing table as a jointer.

[mastercabman]

I just finished building my new routing table.I am using my MFT 1080 frame and got 1" MDF. Laminated and installed plate,miter gauge channel,and fence.
I even made an electrical outlet w/ a switch so that i can plug my router.
I know that you can use a routing table as a jointer by using shimes(witch i have)on the left fence and adjust that fence straight with the bit.
Of course there is limitation on the size of the bit,but i was thinking about doing edges.I don't have a jointer.Maybe one day i will invest in one but right now it's not easy.
So,i would like to know from anyone who has used or using their routing table to joint edges.Is it ok? Or should i look at a small jointer?

 

[peter halle]

You can certainly use a router table to joint edges if you have a fence that will allow you to offset forwards and backwards to compensate for the amount being routed off.  A jointer will also allow you to flatten one face of the board up to the capacity of the jointer.

With the Festool system you can also achieve what you are looking to do with the rails and the plunge saws possibly followed up with the router and the guide rails as log as you have a rail at least as long as the board you are working on.

Peter

 

[mwhafner]

Using a good spiral (upcut or downcut both work equally well depending on your DC setup) bit, you can get excellent results edge-jointing with a router table.  I use the Bench Dog fences, and they have grooves designed specifically for these operations.  It may actually be a little superior to a jointer, because you can use featherboards to ensure that you are applying pressure where you want it. 

The problem comes, as Peter indicated, in face preparation.  The short fences, grain direction, and cutter height all work against you. 

 

[Nigel]

      First,Happy New Year to all you Festooligans. It's 2010 in Europe...
      I tried jointing edges with "micro-adjustable" router fence of dubious manufacture.The problem was very slight movement of the short  fences which led to curved edges.That fence was rubbish even though I tried to improve it.I had far better results with a home made ridgid fence and some tape on the outfeed half.
    Basically the fences need to be perfectly ridgid and parallel.Sorry if I'm stating the obvious.Now for jointing edges I use the ts and rail as mentioned by Peter which I reckon is made for the job.
    Regards Nigel.

 

[jeffinsgf]

... possibly followed up with the router and the guide rails ...
Peter

...Or a quick swipe with a jack plane.  Sorry, I know it has no motor.  Just think of it as the original cordless tool.  [big grin]

 

[mastercabman]

Thank for all the replies.I have the TS55 and plenty of guide rails.But after putting together my new table,I'm thinking that i can use this thing for just about anything.
This table is BIG!  And i LIKE IT! [wink]
So i will try to use it as a jointer see how good result i get. 

 

[Michael Kellough]

I second Nigel's suggestion, the plunge saw and guide rail are a readymade jointing system. You can clean up saw marks with a spiral bit but use a rigid one piece fence with a strip of thin UHMW PE on the outfeed side.

 

[colinw]

A simple stick fence with a "v" cut out to accommodate the bit and a piece of Formica glued onto the out feed side works like a charm.

 

[woodshopdemos]

I have been edge jointing boards for years. The router table  works well. I use a 2" straight router bit which has a slight shear angle.

http://www.woodshopdemos.com/rtrplnr.htm

A more recent story: http://www.woodshopdemos.com/sstat-18.htm

 

[HowardH]

My jointech system is set up for jointing.  It has adjustable fences where you can offset by 1/32" or even a bit more by turning a couple of knobs at the end of the fence.  It works very well.