Using the Domino on 3/4 x 3/4 stock

Canoescapes

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Jan 20, 2014
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Hello.  I am a hobbyist and relatively new to the forum.  That said, I have a number of Festool products and, now that I have discovered the FOG, I have spent the last couple of months learning many techniques for enhancing my use of these tools by reading the many excellent posts on the forum.  Now I have a question about the use of the Domino. 

I am building some mission style end tables and a coffee table.  I must mortise and tenon 54 16-inch sticks (with tenons on both ends) that are 3/4 X 3/4.  My plan was to use the Domino and the trim stop to place 4mm dominos in each end of the sticks.  The 4mm dominos result in a very close fit in the ends of 3/4 x 3/4 sticks, but since the sticks are decorative and not structural, I think it will work when the dominos are glued in place.  Unfortunately, the trim stop does not close far enough to capture 3/4 x 3/4 stock and the Domino has a tendency to rock from side to side on the end of the sticks.  My solution so far has been to use scrap wood spacers on each side of the sticks to allow the trim stop to capture the sticks and to stop the tendency to rock.  The spacers are each identical in size, so the sticks center on the Domino in the trim stop.  It seems to work on test pieces, but each piece now requires some juggling of three pieces in the trim stop.  Is there a better way to mortise the ends of 3/4 x 3/4 stock to accept a 4mm domino?  (I am trying to avoid creating all these tenons on a table saw!)  I would appreciate any suggestions.  Thank you!
 
Have you tried double stick tape to hold the spacers to the trim stop? 

For easier indexing, try a chamfer or miter the outside corner on either side spacer to enable easily clamping the piece to the table or bench top and then sliding the domino over the stick and plunging. 

Also for speed, You could space out two pieces under a bridge (1x4x18 inches or so) with a clamp in the middle to allow you to clamp and then plunge cut two pieces per clamping session and then reverse to the other ends.

Neil

 
You might do well to investigate the use of the excellent Self-Centering Guide rather than fool with shims.  Also be sure that you clamp your workpieces such that they hang over the side of a worktable like the MFT/3 by a couple of inches or so to avoid interference between the bottom of the tool and the work surface.  How you hold the Domino tool is also critical.  Place one hand securely on the handle on the fence to keep the tool down on the workpiece, but more importantly, place your other hand back around the Plug-It connector and the DE hose connector rather than around the barrel of the tool to help you thrust straight into the workpiece and not wiggle around vertically. 

 
Peter Parfitt has a very good video on y tube and he may have it on the FOG  " Flat frame jig for Domino" . It is quite simple and easy to use. I cannot post a link but he does post on the FOG.  Basically you measure from the center of your cutter to the edge of the Domino plate.  Subtract  1/2 the width of your stock from your measurement. Cut a spacer stick equal in width to your calculated number . Thickness of spacer must be same as or less that thickness of your stock . Clamp the spacer to your MFT and  butt a thicker board against the spacer to act as a stop for your Domino machine .  Now place your  stock against the spacer . When the Domino is placed on top of your stock and the spacer and Domino is butted against the stop your cutter will be centered on your stock.
Peter's video is excellent and easier to follow.
Good Luck
Ed
 
Canoescapes said:
Hello.  I am a hobbyist and relatively new to the forum.  That said, I have a number of Festool products and, now that I have discovered the FOG, I have spent the last couple of months learning many techniques for enhancing my use of these tools by reading the many excellent posts on the forum.  Now I have a question about the use of the Domino. 

I am building some mission style end tables and a coffee table.  I must mortise and tenon 54 16-inch sticks (with tenons on both ends) that are 3/4 X 3/4.  My plan was to use the Domino and the trim stop to place 4mm dominos in each end of the sticks.  The 4mm dominos result in a very close fit in the ends of 3/4 x 3/4 sticks, but since the sticks are decorative and not structural, I think it will work when the dominos are glued in place.  Unfortunately, the trim stop does not close far enough to capture 3/4 x 3/4 stock and the Domino has a tendency to rock from side to side on the end of the sticks.  My solution so far has been to use scrap wood spacers on each side of the sticks to allow the trim stop to capture the sticks and to stop the tendency to rock.  The spacers are each identical in size, so the sticks center on the Domino in the trim stop.  It seems to work on test pieces, but each piece now requires some juggling of three pieces in the trim stop.  Is there a better way to mortise the ends of 3/4 x 3/4 stock to accept a 4mm domino?  (I am trying to avoid creating all these tenons on a table saw!)  I would appreciate any suggestions.  Thank you!

Welcome to the forum!  [smile]

Affix two spare sticks to a work surface with the one you will mortise sandwiched in between. Center the trim stop on the width of all three. Add a hold down clamp or piece to but the end against at the back end of the one being mortised. That will give you a wider more stable surface to hold against and should be pretty fast to flip and change the pieces.

Seth
 
Thanks Ed for noticing the connection.

I think my technique might work for the OP if the spacers are the same thickness as his stock (3/4") so that the Domino sits flat. Here is the link that Ed mentioned:



Peter
 
There is an easier way. Use a Mortise strip. See the photo below from Woodsmith TV show (Craftsman Coffee Table
Season 4 — Episode 401)
 

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Many thanks for all of your suggestions and for the link to Peter's video. I have spent some time putting your suggestions into practice and have achieved repeatable domino mortises on scrap. You will save me several hours of aggravation with results that will look far better than I anything I could have come up with on my own.

Regards, Dave
 
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