Using the Domino to attach table tops

[mouppe]

I am sure I have seen this topic covered before somewhere on the FOG, but if so it was ages ago and I cannot find it again now so I am resurrecting it here.

I used the domino to attach tabletops to the bases. It is an excellent way to overcome the problem of tabletop expansion and contraction which can result in a cracked or split top. I am using 6 x 40mm tenons.

To make the table buttons, I take some 3/4" wood (I think I am using oak here) and mortise 28mm deep right in the centre of the block, also with the height set to 20mm. All the mortises are on the smallest setting. Then I glue the tenons in the mortises.

The walls of my aprons and sides are about 3/4" thick so I mortise 12mm deep to be absolutely sure not to blow through. I set the fence height to 20mm so the centre of the mortise is 10mm from the top.

My table top will be fixed at the back and able to expand towards the front, so on the rear apron I mortise on the narrowest setting.

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On the sides I mortise on the widest setting as this is where most expansion and contraction will occur.

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On the front I mortise on the middle setting. There will be very little movement here but since the tenons will not be glued it may as well be allowed to travel a little.

I drill holes for the screws right through the buttons. Then I place the buttons in the table base and mark the locations of the screw holes on the underside of the top.

- The buttons at the rear of the table are secured tightly to the top and glued in, flush to the rear apron.
- The buttons in the sides will be subject to the most movement. They are not glued in to the sides but left to move freely. I leave a little gap of a mm between the button edge and the side to allow for any long-grain expansion and because the sides are curved.
- The buttons at the front are similarly not glued in, and importantly, the edge of the button is set back from the apron allowing the top to expand and push the button forward.

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This process is quick, flexible and effective.

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[Jesse Cloud]

Yet another "DOH - why didn't I think of that?" moment.  Thinking about changing my name to Homer...

Great idea, I'll definitely steal use that!

I don't think this has been on the forum so far, but a related idea for a "floating screw" came up a couple of years ago - just a through domino mortise near the width of the screw shaft and a shallow mortise the width of the head.  Elegantly simple.  Use it all the time.

something simple you can do with your domino

 

[Kevin Stricker]

Great idea!

What about just using an 8 or 10mm domino and skip the buttons?

 

[mouppe]

Great idea!

What about just using an 8 or 10mm domino and skip the buttons?

It wouldn't work unless you were happy leaving a gap between the top of the domino and the table top and exposing part of the screw because the domino cannot be flush with the top of the sides.

 

[Kevin Stricker]

Wouldn't that make it a tighter fit?  I was taught to recess the fig-8 fasteners on the apron so that when you tighten the screws down they help cinch down the top.

 

[mouppe]

Yes, but the 8-fasteners flex more than dominoes, and you wouldn't want to mortise too close to the apron top as you may split it.

 

[barnowl]

While this pic wasn't taken to show them, often I cut 5 mm Domino slots for tabletop mounting, and use Z-clips that I buy at Rockler.

I wrote the specs for fence depth adjustment in the drawer that I keep the Z-clips in.

 

[ScotF]

Resurrecting this thread -- for those of you that have used this method, do you think 5mm or 6mm Dominos give enough strength for the buttons to hold  a table top or desktop in place?  Seems like it would be fine, but I am curious if anyone has experienced any failure.  Great idea and beats rabbeting the edge of a board and tweaking it for the perfect fit.

Scot

 

[mouppe]

The screws are going to be pulled out from the top long before the dominoes crack. I've never had a problem, but I also would never lift a really heavy table by the top alone.

 

[Alan m]

i have never had a failure like that.
richard is right the screws would probably fail first.

 

[ScotF]

Thanks...I am going to give it a go on my current desktop and see how it works...I think it will be fine for this.  Thanks again for this thread and and the feedback. 

Scot

 

[mouppe]

I made a little video about using the domino to make table buttons.

 

[Kevin D.]

Thanks for taking the time to post that Richard.

One little thing I may have done differently, although I have nowhere your experience at tabletops as I believe you have, would it not be better/safer to use 3/4 ply for the buttons to avoid the buttons themselves potentially from splitting down the road especially if using a traditional woodscrew and not a pan head type screw ?  Or is it simply an issue of keeping the entire project as "au naturelle" as possible, even though the buttons are never seen?  Your thoughts sir!

 

[mouppe]

Hi Kevin,

I don't think it makes a difference really. I pre-drilled the holes so it is unlikely they will ever split. The wood screws are more likely to be pulled out from the table top than to split the button I think. I had an offcut of the same walnut which was the perfect size for the job so I used it.

Also, I'm not that keen on using my hand saws to cut plywood, and the buttons are really small pieces to cut off safely with power tools. So all in all, solid lumber was a better choice this time around for me. 

Richard.

 

[peter halle]

Great video Richard!  I am shocked that other vidos haven't got many more views.

Other than the fact that you use many tools that are missing their cords( [poke]) they are fascinating!

Others should check them out!

Peter

 

[mouppe]

Thanks Peter, I appreciate the compliment.

I love both my hand tools and Festools, but I am using the hand tools more and more- not really through choice. The building where I have my workshop has become much less tolerant of noise and light industrial activities such as woodworking; most of the current tenants are in professions like photography, small offices, graphic design etc and they were complaining about my noise. The building management wanted me to move out but because it's such a great space with good light and it's just the right size, I said I would change the way I operate and only use my machinery at the weekend, late at night etc. It was a little restricting at first but I'm used to it now. In fact, I haven't noticed the workflow going any more slowly. I just have to think more about the order in which I do things.

So I tend to reach much more for the hand tools, and I do all my my machine setup and marking out during the day. Then I just come back at night for half an hour or so and run the machines, or at the weekend.

Seriously, though, I just don't know where they are finding so many graphic designers?!

 

[ScotF]

Yeah -- I agree, Richard's videos are great and he is a true craftsman!  I stole his technique for making buttons on my hall table build and I have used it on a couple of other pieces too with great success.  The fastest, easiest and smartest way to make buttons in my opinion.

Scot

 

[Tinker]

Richard and Seth, thanks to each of you for showing your methods.  I am working on a trestle table that will be used in a kitchen/dining area most of the time.  about once or twice a year, it will be moved outside for large parties and will support lots of food dishes.  i have been wrestling with how to support the top but can be easily disassembled for moving in or out.  I won't be making the top until warm weather when i can do all cutting and assembling in my much larger outside shop space.

I have only made one trestle table, a very simple construction.  i never got to find if the method allowing for expansion was adequate.  The first spring i had set it outside on our terrace, a heavy rain loosened a large rock at top of bank.  since i had not completed a retaining wall (back had screamed for relief and had to quit for a while), there was nothing to impede either velocity or destination of said rock,=end of table.  that little 10 dollar table ended up costing me $20,000 as THE BOSS called our excavating son to move the rock.  By the time he was finished moving the rock, there was a three stage stone retaining wall about 16 feet high.  Oh well, it probably wood have cost me a whole lot more had my back quit completely.  [unsure]
Tinker

 

[hitandruntz]

I learned a few moves from that video. I really like the small jig for your crosscut  and running your hand plane to clean up the ends. Plus i can see using the button stratagy for other stuff too. Thanks for sharing.

 

[rmhinden]

Adding on to an old thread.

I used my Shaper Origin to make one piece wood domino brackets.  I bit more work than using dominos, but I am pleased with the outcome. 

Bob

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