Using the Domino to attach table tops

Nice. You just have to mill thr mortises on the aprons. I presume the tenons on those buttons are smaller than the standard domino mortises
 
ChuckS said:
Nice. You just have to mill thr mortises on the aprons. I presume the tenons on those buttons are smaller than the standard domino mortises

Thanks!  I first made the mortices with my DF-700 before putting the base together.  For the buttons, I adjusted the offset on the shaper origin until I got the fit I wanted.

Bob
 
The buttons look to be a very snug fit unless I'm mistaken and won't allow for wood movement, or are you cutting the mortises on the wide setting to allow sideways movement?
 
I like that idea!

But why did you put the tenon so close to the edge of the blocks? Was there a specific reason for that?
 
The tongue of a cabinetmaker's button is usually flush with one side of the button (top or bottom) as it's easier to cut a rabbet and turn it into a button. Another plausible explanation is that you want the mortise milled on the apron to be not too close to its edge.
 
That makes sense. Most buttons I have seen were indeed just blocks of wood with a rebate and a screw hole.
 
hdv said:
I like that idea!

But why did you put the tenon so close to the edge of the blocks? Was there a specific reason for that?

I used left over stock and this allowed the correct offset from the top.  They are made from cherry, should be very strong.

luvmytoolz said:
The buttons look to be a very snug fit unless I'm mistaken and won't allow for wood movement, or are you cutting the mortises on the wide setting to allow sideways movement?

They are tight enough to fit snugly, but will slide in and out with hand pressure.  I might sand them a bit to loosen them up.

Note, there are two cases.  There are single ones in the middle of each end of the top, these are not intended to move.  There are three on each side, these are designed to allow the top expand and contract.  These only need to move in and out.

Bob
 
hdv said:
That makes sense. Most buttons I have seen were indeed just blocks of wood with a rebate and a screw hole.

That is the way I used to do it, before I got the DF500. I just cut a groove down the entire length of the aprons, just like a drawer side, and a matching rabbet on the clips.
After that, I have used the 6mm Dominos, tight in the blocks, wide in the apron.
 

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After that, I have used the 6mm Dominos, tight in the blocks, wide in the apron.

That was my thinking too. Hence the question, because with this way of doing it you don't want to be on the edge of the blocks.

But, what ChuckS wrote makes sense to me when you look at it from the viewpoint of old-fashioned buttons with just a rebate. Just didn't think about that when I asked the question.

I am lazy, so I think I'll continue to use blocks with domino's in them and wide mortices made with the DF500.
 
Crazyraceguy said:
hdv said:
That makes sense. Most buttons I have seen were indeed just blocks of wood with a rebate and a screw hole.

That is the way I used to do it, before I got the DF500. I just cut a groove down the entire length of the aprons, just like a drawer side, and a matching rabbet on the clips.
After that, I have used the 6mm Dominos, tight in the blocks, wide in the apron.

And I would make one change, a tight/tight one in the middle on each side to keep position better.
 
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