using track saw on bench top

[laokai]

New to the forum and to Festool...after dreaming about one for a long time, I am finally getting a Festool track saw and dust vac. I am a hobbyist with a small shop, dominated by my workbench in the center. My bench has dog holes and I have a handful of the Veritas work holders. I'm assuming that I can set up cuts on 1x rails right on the bench top? Apologies if this has been covered---I tried to do a search and had trouble finding information that wasn't centered on the MFT system. Thanks,

Chris

 

[semenza]

Hi,

  Welcome to the forum!  [smile]

    Yes, just put some type of spacers under the piece you are cutting or even a full coverage sacrificial sheet of plywood or MDF. Make certain that the saw depth is set so that it won't cut through into your nice bench. Some people like using foam insulation board for sacrificial surface. I find a full sacrificial surface is better and helps keep dust from escaping under the cut.

Seth

 

[Mark Katz]

I have used those Veritas Platform Saddles for just that purpose. If you're cutting large sheets i would buy 2 sets (of 4 each) of the saddles so you could have more supports underneath the sheet you are cutting. This also minimizes any tendency for the sheet to move around. One more thing I do is clamp the track to the sheet being cut if I have the clearance to do so. It's not completely necessary but I feel it's less stressful that way. And, as Seth said, make sure you're saw is not set too deep (although using the 1x supports that shouldn't be much of an issue).

 

[woodbutcherbower]

+1 on a full-bench-sized sacrificial sheet. I did it for years. 3/4” is best - and grab some little self-adhesive rubber pads to stop it from sliding around or marking your bench.

Welcome to TDF !!!

Kevin

 

[mino]

Before you do/invest in anything else, get a couple small sheets of 1" thick EPS insulation foam and just place them on the bench and cut by plunging about 1/8" into the foam.

That will give you the absolutely best dust extraction, is the absolutely cheapest approach, allows to make arbitrarily small rips as the whole sheet is supported, and you may not want to mess with anything more complicated afterwards.

If you do not like it, you will at least have a benchmark ref. dust extraction possibilities etc. Plus such sheets can be used on any surface, even on concrete at your lumber yard etc. etc.

Edit: I do not want to be doing sales here, but you should seriously look at this set to get along your track saw:https://www.festoolusa.com/products/guide-systems/guide-rails/577157---sys3-m-137-fs2-sethttps://www.festoolusa.com/accessor...stems/stops-and-attachments/577041---fs-wa-vl

After that, check out the TSO Parallel guides.

These two accessories give an almost complete set of workflows one can do with a tracksaw - and having them sooner rather than later is absolutely worth it as you will not waste time developing workflows to "work around" not having them. Been there, done that (the wrong way) ...

Ah, last one. Checks some late threads over here about which rail lengths to get and how to connect them - you want 3 rails for a start, ideally 1080-1400 LR32-1900.

Good luck!

 

[Packard]

I am fairly certain that the Black and Decker Workmate dogs will fit a standard work bench.  Theses are available at very low prices and since they may be consumables, that might add up.

 

[woodferret]

I have those.  Works fine.  Like [member=608]Mark Katz[/member] I'd recommend clamping.  Vertias has some low profile track clamps that should be able to slide in between a 1x4 on these things.  I still prefer the standard rail clamps, but these things come very useful if your board is shorter or somehow is over the bench.

 

[Tobiasz]

I love that bench. Can you specify more info about it, and some photos please. Looks super dope

 

[laokai]

Thanks for all the replies. I'm assuming that the foam board (or sacrificial plywood) approach is not something one would use on top of the Vertitas saddles (with 1x3s), but instead lay right on the bench top.

Tobiasz, the bench design is based on Christopher Schwarz's approach. He has a number of books, articles, and videos about making a bench from construction lumber. This is one book:https://lostartpress.com/products/the-anarchists-workbench. He recommends making the bench from southern yellow pine, which is hard to find in the northeast, so I made mine from Douglas fir. In retrospect, that was a mistake, but just one of about a million mistakes I made in the project. :O)

Chris

 

[semenza]

Right, if you are using a sacrificial sheet of whatever just put it right on the bench. Foam is handy because it is light weight to get out / put away , etc.  It does create some "dust" that tends to get around and stick to things. I like foam for out of shop use, and MDF for in shop use.

Seth

 

[Packard]

I use a foam insulation panel on my work bench (and also on saw horses).  I have never considered using anything else.  I don’t use my track as much as many folks do, but going on 4 years for the foam panel.  I don’t see replacing it anytime soon. 

On windy days, a problem as it likes to take flight.  But that was one afternoon only.

I would try the foam panel first.  If you are dissatisfied, try something else. 

 

[jeffinsgf]

Given your workbench, I would put a piece of full size sheet goods down, with 1" foam on top and then the material you're cutting. The lower level isn't absolutely necessary, but I find it makes a couple things easier. For one, I like to clamp my rail in place, and sandwiching the foam clamps better than the pad of the clamp contacting the foam. Also, 8 feet of foam on a 5 foot workbench leaves 1-1/2' flopping around on each end.

The bottom piece doesn't have to be anything fancy. If you're space constrained, I know some people have their foam and any supporting pieces cut in half for easier storage.

 

[Packard]

Given your workbench, I would put a piece of full size sheet goods down, with 1" foam on top and then the material you're cutting. The lower level isn't absolutely necessary, but I find it makes a couple things easier. For one, I like to clamp my rail in place, and sandwiching the foam clamps better than the pad of the clamp contacting the foam. Also, 8 feet of foam on a 5 foot workbench leaves 1-1/2' flopping around on each end.

The bottom piece doesn't have to be anything fancy. If you're space constrained, I know some people have their foam and any supporting pieces cut in half for easier storage.

I use 3” thick (I think—I will have to measure it) and it has enough structure that it would not be flopping around.  The weight remains insignificant.

 

[laokai]

Thanks, all, for your replies and good advice. I have some 4x4 pieces of 1/2" ply, so I will try using that as a base on the bench, with a sheet of foam on top. I don't have room to easily store or maneuver a full 4x8 sheet, but hopefully the 4x4 sheets will work just about as well...and will be enough to support many of my cuts since I'm not doing full sheets that often.

Chris

 

[Packard]

Thanks, all, for your replies and good advice. I have some 4x4 pieces of 1/2" ply, so I will try using that as a base on the bench, with a sheet of foam on top. I don't have room to easily store or maneuver a full 4x8 sheet, but hopefully the 4x4 sheets will work just about as well...and will be enough to support many of my cuts since I'm not doing full sheets that often.

Chris

I used the narrow sheets designed to fit between studs 14” O.C.  Two pieces size by side work well for most situations.

 

[Cheese]

I took a 4' x 8' sheet of 2" foam and cut it in thirds. Easier to store, easier to handle in a small area and sometimes for smaller pieces you just don't need a full sheet.

[attachimg=1]

 

[rvieceli]

In reality you can get by with at least two fairly narrow pieces of foam. You need one to put under the track of the cut and another to support the opposite end of the workpiece. 12 inches wide gives you some wiggle room in placement.

Ron

 

[Packard]

I took a 4' x 8' sheet of 2" foam and cut it in thirds. Easier to store, easier to handle in a small area and sometimes for smaller pieces you just don't need a full sheet.

[attachimg=1]

I agree that the small pieces are handier.  They don’t seem to move about much, and I guess there is a decent coefficient of friction, because I never found a need to provide alignment devices.  They can always be added later.  So I would try it without the dominoes first and see if they are needed.

I use my track saw both in my shop (basement) and on my driveway.  I use a large sheet on the driveway as I have all the room in the world there. 

I use the smaller pieces in the basement shop.

I would note that there are sheets that join with tongue and groove (lenthwise) and that would provide alignment also.

 

[laokai]

My goodies arrived. :O)

 

[Packard]

My goodies arrived. :O)

All my tracks arrived with all those little holes in them.  This example has longer slots stamped in it.  I know the line of holes is for the router drilling spacing.  What are the slots for?