Using Track Saw on MFT

[imranindiana]

Hi all,

Interestingly, this is the 2nd FOG I have joined, first being the Felder Owners Group. 

I am considering a TS55 and have a simple, perhaps naive, question regarding use of TS on MFT.  Does one not cut into the table top while sectioning sheet goods or wood parts?  I know the top is replaceable (not sure for how much though) but still an awful nice top to be cutting into.  Placing a sacrificial piece under the workpiece seems like too much trouble.  Maybe, I am missing something.

 

[Timtool]

Welcome! And yup, the table is made to be cut into, that is why the mdf top stick out higher than the aluminium edge.
I don't have one but i think that if you work with supplied cross cut jig or with bench dogs, that your cut will always be at the same spot so that you only ever have one cut line.  It's also perfectly possible to cut over the edge, then your off-cut will fall on the floor unless you can hold it.

Cutting into it seems like a shame, but once it's done it feels like a big relief!

 

[AlexThePalex]

The MFT table top is meant to be cut. You can use sacrificial scraps if you want but it is not necessary. Some people like to cut in the top and others don't. Even others always use the same place to cut, resulting in a clean tabel with one groove. It comes down to preference. But the way Festool meant it is to cut in the top. When the top is too cut up you can replace it. This is pretty pricey though at $152. But you can go several years with one top.  

 

[dsweetser]

You can also turn it over

 

[Tinker]

With my first MFT 1080, i cut into the top with cross cutting and lengthwise with longer rips.  Where i had the guide plateset permanently for the cross cutting, it got to be quite a wide groove across the top from doing angled cuts.  I eventually filled the grove with wood dough.  The wood dough was a liittle grainy looking and i did not like the appearance.  I looked at a friends table that had the cuts filled with bondo and smoothed off.  That looked pretty smooth and neat.

The problem with cutting into the top for me is that I do a lot of small projects and use thin slices of wood down to 1/8".  with grooves developing, it is sometimes tricky to set up for such thin cuts, sort of like trying to cut thin strips on table saw without a zero clearance insert. You don't know where that thin piece is going to end up and often it will get scarred because as it takes off, it will collide with the saw teeth as it begins its journey into the unknown.

I still use the old 1080 and the top is quite scarred up in all directions.  I will try the Bondo, hopefully this winter.  I have a MFT/3 that i am trying to avoid cutting into.  I have cut long strips of MDF that i have laid out.  I am not sure it is worth going that route as now so many of the holes are not available for clamping.  I am now starting to experiment by cutting the strips in half.  Currently, they are 6" in width by 4' long.  I am narrowing some of the strips down to 3" and that leaves more ability to move them around for clamping.  However, since there are open spaces between the board being cut and the table top, the dust collection does suffer.

I am now gong to try working with one MDf strip running under the saw cut and butting other long strips perpendicular lengthwise on the table. Also going to try running all of the elevation strips the short way across the table. If i can eliminate the throwing of saw dust this way, i think it will prove to be worthwhile for me to use strips. Not replacing the top will pay for a few sheets of sandpaper (not many with the new price increases.)

As the strips deterriorate from a lot of saw cuts, I might be able to salvage some for use as jig material.  
Tinker

 

[imranindiana]

Thank you all for confirming.  I had not thought of flipping the top so that should extend the life.  I was considering MFT for a secondary use as an assembly table.  Few shallow blade kerfs would not render is unusable for that purpose.  Regards, Imran

 

[peter halle]

I am a table top cutter and my top has kerfs in all direction .  But if you primarily use the MFT for cross cuts as set up from the factory you can also rotate the table or move the rail and stops to get to additional "clean" areas in addition to the choice of flipping the table.

Peter

 

[Jesse Cloud]

........

As the strips deterriorate from a lot of saw cuts, I might be able to salvage some for use as jig material.  
Tinker

I use the good bits of MFT tops in jigs frequently.  Its always an issue designing clamping areas on a jig - but its a snap with a fence made of MFT!!

 

[RDMuller]

I firmly believe the MFT is too small for breaking down sheet goods from full size.  Make a cheap table with one sheet of plywood and the whole thing is sacrificial, including the top.  It is a real shame to tear up the MFT top unnecessarily.  Here is a video link to a table that I use.  This video was named the training video of the year by Cabinetmaker magazine in late 2010.  There are 2 other companion videos out on YouTube.  I see you have "indiana" in you name.  If you are in Indiana, send me a personal message and I will detail you on some future plans.

 

[builderbob]

I use my MFT tables for everything as space is definitely tighter than I would like it to be. I use one MFT as a crosscut setup close to a wall and two other joins MFT's are my everything else tables (rip, assembly, domino, etc). I have yet to flip em over and they perform all tasks wonderfully still...it's been about 3 1/2 years of constant use!

I think you'll be fine!

Bob

 

[Guilliaume woodworks]

I've had mine a few years with almost daily use & only flipped top over recently. I think $152 isn't unreasonable however I had a shop with a cnc duplicate 20mm hole pattern top that was considerably larger for a bit less. I only use mft for crosscuts now ,but currently making longer& deeper table..post pics soon. But anyway I'm curious if $152 seems pricey what would you be comfortable paying. I know this topic of cnc producing mft tops has been discussed many times but I'm not aware of anyone actually making them. Or just making 4x8  mfd sheets with 20mm hole pattern.

 

[Julian Tracy]

I too like having a nice, good looking MFT top....  I primariliy use mine for wide cross-cutting, so I have a single groove that gradually gets wide due to play in the setup or tweaking through the months/years.

Makes me think a cool little project would be to shave off a 3-5" section with angle sides and create a et of replaceable 1/4" hardboard "anti-splinter" inserts for the mdf top.  That could easily slide in with a bit of wax and be held in place with some small counter sunk brass screws and even be template bored for the dog holes.

I'm suprised no one has done this - it would allow your top to last indefinately with a good look just a new insert away.

With all the time we spend creating jigs and mods, this would seem to be a good couple of hours well spent.

Jt

 

[PierreA]

Hi,

I made the Ron Paulk table to cut 4 x 8 and I used sacrificial pieces. It is perfect with the storage space under the top to keep the top clear.

If you cut melamine you need a minimal doc and I think there is not enough clearance between the top and the aluminium base of the MFT.

http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-jigs-tool-enhancements/ultimate-miter-bench-plans/msg161565/#msg161565

Pierre

 

[Tinker]

I just completed an operation I had not mentioned (I don't think I did) that I like to have a good clean, ungrooved top for.  I have two tables that i use for glueups.  I do mostly small projects for which i use my MFT 800 for assembly purposes. That table i have never used for cutting, so the top is clean.  The first thing i have always done with my new tables has been to give them a coat of clear Danish Oil rubbed in and the a couple of coats of wax and buffed.  The MFT 800, i gave an extra application of oil, I think.  I also worked some mineral oil and wax into each of the holes.  The purpose of oil & wax has been to prevent glue from sticking when i do the assemblies.

My oldest MFT 1080 got the same oil & wax treatment, but i must put down plenty of wax paper when doing assembies, as the suface on that has been pretty well chewed up.  if I don't use wax paper I would certainly glue any assembly to the table top. 

This morning, I thought I would use my newest MFT, the /3 for a large bulletin board frame for my grandson.  I determined where the glued corners would be and rubbed a spot of wax at each spot where a corner would be.  With NO wax paper under the corners, the glue that dripped down left not a speck on the table top.  That extra wipe on of wax is far less bothersome to me than to mess around with wax paper.  I think i will continue to put strips down when I do my cutting.

To do the glue up, i used a bunch of the Festoy clamps and dogs of all sizes.  The holes in the table top help with alignment.  To draw all of the corners together, after setting up the Festool clamps and dogs, One Bessy long clamp was used to draw every thing tight.

So far, I have made several frames with beveled corners.  Up until now, I would say they have only been paint grade. (Of course the recipients have all been family, so they think they are great >>> at least that’s what they say. ) Today’s frame, after learning from many misttoks and how to avoide, is almost stain grade.  >>> But not quite. [blink]
Tinker

 

[Bob Mircetic]

I recently purchased a 2nd MFT.  I typicall have the tables next to each other with approximately 6" space between them.  I try to position the stock so the cutline is over the gap, so I don't have to cut into the table top.  Having a 2nd MFT also makes it much easier to deal with long stock.

 

[fdengel]

I recently purchased a 2nd MFT.  I typicall have the tables next to each other with approximately 6" space between them.  I try to position the stock so the cutline is over the gap, so I don't have to cut into the table top.  Having a 2nd MFT also makes it much easier to deal with long stock.

You lose the advantage of the tabletop reducing tearout in the workpiece when you do that... you basically have a pair of extra-wide sawhorses in this case instead of needing four normal ones.

 

[tbellemare]

I would think there isn't much to cause tear out on the bottom because the teeth are essentially traveling upward.

Tom

 

[Tinker]

i have been trying ways of protecting my tabletop byy placing MDF strips under the saw.

With the strips running length wise on the table while cutting across, the is a lot of empty space under the blade.
I don't capture any where near as much dust and chips as when the wood is flat against the table.

This week, i placed one 6" wide strip directly under the guide rail in the same direction as the saw travel.
With one or two strips scattered parallel along the table, i get almost no dust flying.
The other plus this way is that i have nearly all of the holes available for clamping when necessary.

I do use two tables in tandem for long boards.  One MFT/3 is the primary table where most of my cutting is done.
The MFT 1080 and the 800 are both lower than the /3, but 2x4's on edge bring a cutting surface grid up to the same level as the /3

Tinker

 

[peter halle]

There are tons of ways to protect the MFT tops.  I don't usually worry about mine, but a sheet or partial sheet of foam works well, is light, and cheap.  I have started using this for protecting from glue.  I also have used this to pad the bottom of systainers that don't have inserts.

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Peter

 

[Tinker]

There are tons of ways to protect the MFT tops.  I don't usually worry about mine, but a sheet or partial sheet of foam works well, is light, and cheap.  I have started using this for protecting from glue.  I also have used this to pad the bottom of systainers that don't have inserts.

[attachimg=#]

Peter

I have used that approach in the past, but when the sheets are not in use, or removed from the table, the storage problem rears its ugly face.

I use the hole pattern for alignment for parallel and square corner.  A sheet covering the table eliminates that valuable asset of the MFT table top. 
Also, glue drip can be a problem.

I am finding narrow strips are working best for me.
I just have to determine how many and direction of placement.

I will try 1/2" MDF for my strips to see if they work better than the 3/4" strips I am using now.
Maybe adjust thickness of strips beinnf used to thickness of material being cut.

So far, i am using cut offs for making the strips so no $$$ spent for the material.
Tinker