Using track saws vertically

[Renwood]

I do not currently have a track saw but would like advice as to whether it would be a good solution for my problem. On a high end home theatre that we built probably ten years ago, we need to enlarge some of the panel openings for upgraded larger speakers. it will require very precise cuts through 1-1/4" thick Cherry stiles approximately 7' tall. I guess the issue really is whether the track saw would be too unwieldly used vertically. What do you think?

Thanks for your responses

FYI, I corrected my question, stiles are seven foot that needs to be cut out, not seven inches.
Thanks

 

[nvalinski]

Definitely seen people do this both vertically and horizontally by putting a screw in the holes at either end of the track. I assume you could probably patch two small hole areas. Otherwise, maybe the suction clamps would work to keep it on without damaging the surface? Or go real crazy and go for a Mafell Aerofix.

 

[Gregor]

As long as you're able to securely attach the track to your workpiece (so it won't move) and handle the saw in that position...

It's likely though that this will be an easier job with a router (with an MFS like jig to control where it can go) as you won't have problems with the edges (which you'll can't fully cut using a circular saw).

 

[lwoirhaye]

Vacuum clamping can do some cool stuff.  A custom rail made of 1/4" or 3/8" material with gasket on the bottom can be stuck to a flat surface using a vacuum pump.  I would do that rather than invest in an exotic tool.  You would still be holding the circular saw in position with muscle and whatever body weight you could put into the cut.

Doing the job in multiple passes with a light weight router might be slower but less risky.

 

[waho6o9]

Maybe use Japanese pull saws?

For center panel work use this one:
View attachment 1

Good value but lacking the one above.https://www.workshopheaven.com/set-of-4-gyokucho-japanese-saws-kataba-ryoba-dozuki-kugihiki.html

 

[Svar]

Try this:

 

[Michael Kellough]

It can be done. I find cutting up less awkward than cutting down but you might have to do both.

Use the longest rail that will fit in the space to allow more chances for alternative ways to secure the rail. Assuming you can’t use a rail clamp the usual way.

 

[RKA]

7 inches or 7 feet?  For 7 inches, I would definitely use a router with a pattern bit.  Jigsaw everything out except the last 1/2".  Use double stick tape to put a straight edge where you want the final cut and use the router to hog out the rest.  If you can't afford to mess up, have someone hold the straight edge as well, just in case the double stick tape starts to release.  Drill relief holes at each corner so the bit won't catch on the adjacent surface.  If you want the corners square, you will have to chisel them. 

For a longer run like this on a finished piece I would probably do the same.  The tracksaw can do it, but you'll have the semicircular kerf matching the saw blade at each corner (back to the router and chisel).  Holding the saw to go up the wall is easier, but coming back down the other side is tricky because of the way the handle is angled.  I would want to be up on a step stool so I could get my arm up over the saw and step off the stool as the cut progressed down the wall.  And since the cuts will most likely be plunge cuts, don't forget to use the little plastic anti kickback attachment when plunging. 

 

[mike_aa]

Would the Festool Gecko Set work for this application?

 

[ADKMedic]

Would one person holding the track and the other using a Carvex with guide-rail attachment work?  I would think that the Carvex would be easier on the arms.

Just a thought,

Andy

 

[tjbnwi]

Easy to do.


Works on ceilings also.

Tom

 

[Lettusbee]

I've done it just like in TJBNWI video above, and really wish I could get a left blade tracksaw, because half the time I don't have room one side or the other. 
FWIW, it's a great way to make long straight cuts in drywall in finished homes. 

 

[Kodi Crescent]

Getting the saw plunged, started, and tracking correctly can be fairly awkward unless you've done it several times vertically.  There are some very un-natural positions required to get started and you need to be sure you are pushing firmly against the track as well as pushing upwards.  Using two hands on the saw is highly recommended.  I found it fairly challenging to do, especially while on a step ladder.

I thought going down would be easier, but it was even more awkward and difficult.

 

[Gregor]

In case you're doing anything with a rail: setting #491582 FS-RSP(s) at the end(s) ensures the operation staying within desired areas.

 

[gunnyr]

Not vertical but horizontal!  Here's a shot of me routing out a hardwood ceiling to install a matching register using my MFS400 and OF1400.  I screwed the MFS to the ceiling and filled the holes when I was done.  Don't be afraid to run a screw through your rails if needed.  It won't hurt the function of the rail and will help you achieve and accurate and safe cut.

[attachimg=1]

Turned out perfectly!

[attachimg=2]