Vecturo -Circular wood blade -Am I using it correctly?

Frank Pellow

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I have read and seen several reviews of the Vecturo as well as searched in vain for a good user's manual (such as the ones the Rick Christopherson has written for other tools).  I did pick up a lot of useful information and tips (particularly from Peter Parfitt) but could not find much at all about the best way to use the circular wood blade (500139).

I haven't done any real work with the blade but I have done some experimentation.  I'm going to talk about my experience so far with the blade and hope that some folks with more experience can correct and/or add to what I have said.

As a test, I cut a length of 19mm thick maple faced plywood sitting on top of a sheet of Melamine covered plywood.

The first thing to note is that the maximum depth of the cut that can be made is 2 centimetres:

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I drew a straight line on the plywood then started to cut along the line with the Vecturo set at speed 4 and cutting at full depth.  I found it somewhat difficult to keep the blade on the line and there was a lot of burning.  [sad]

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So, I stopped and set the speed to 1.  Then, using the Vecturo,  I scored the cut at a depth of about 3mm.  Having first done that, I cut at full depth following the scored line. 

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The tool was much easier to control and there was little or no burning.  [smile]

The end result was a straight cut with no marking of the underlying Melamine:

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I observe that it took longer to make this cut than I would have expected.  Probably my expectations were too optimistic, but maybe someone can tell be a better and faster technique.

 

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  • Vecturo with round wood blade -maximum depth is 2 centimetres.JPG
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    Vecturo with round wood blade -burned when running at full speed.JPG
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  • Vecturo with round wood blade -Cutting at speed 1 after first scoring.JPG
    Vecturo with round wood blade -Cutting at speed 1 after first scoring.JPG
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  • Vecturo with round wood blade -Cut was clean and the material underneath was unmarked_0421.JPG
    Vecturo with round wood blade -Cut was clean and the material underneath was unmarked_0421.JPG
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I tried this blade too on 1/4 plywood subfloor.  Burning and not effective.  I ended up using the wider wood blade and that was much better.  I didn't find the round blade useful at all.
 
From my experience with Fein, That round blade tends to be good for cutting larger openings in drywall rather than using to cut plywood. I would use a wood cutting blades which the teeth angle to the side for cutting things like plywood or any wood.
 
One of the first blades I tried when I received the Vecturo was the circular blade, on maple and birch plywood.  I got some burning as well.  I played with the speed, just took to long with that blade.

I think Anthonyz is correct.  The blade is great for drywall.  I used the circular blade on drywall and worked like a champ.

Eric

 
I found with the multimaster with the round blades you have to keep them moving.  If rotate the tool while its running, thats the only way to prevent burning up the blade.  The best way for me to explain it is imagine a clock.  If your cutting at 15.  Rotate to 20 than 10 and keep it moving back and forth until you have finished your cut.  Sorta a pain in the butt, but its not hard to do when you get use to it.  The key to any muli tool is not to let the blade get hot.
 
The nature of the round blade with teeth sticking straight out will cause the the blade tear through but not cut and move material out of the way. The angle teeth accomplish this which is why it's best for wood. With dry wall being fine, it is breaking down the material but you don't have larger fibers getting in the way of the continuing to cut. You shouldn't have to rotate the tool to make this happen, you just need the correct blade, because the blade is suppose to do that work.
 
Tyler Ernsberger said:
I found with the multimaster with the round blades you have to keep them moving.  If rotate the tool while its running, thats the only way to prevent burning up the blade.  The best way for me to explain it is imagine a clock.  If your cutting at 15.  Rotate to 20 than 10 and keep it moving back and forth until you have finished your cut.  Sorta a pain in the butt, but its not hard to do when you get use to it.  The key to any muli tool is not to let the blade get hot.

That's a good tip, but it's not going to be applicable when using the depth guide (as I was).
 
erock said:
One of the first blades I tried when I received the Vecturo was the circular blade, on maple and birch plywood.  I got some burning as well.  I played with the speed, just took to long with that blade.

I think Anthonyz is correct.  The blade is great for drywall.  I used the circular blade on drywall and worked like a champ.

Eric

So, I guess that Festool should  call it drywall blade rather than a wood blade.  [scratch chin]
 
Frank Pellow said:
erock said:
One of the first blades I tried when I received the Vecturo was the circular blade, on maple and birch plywood.  I got some burning as well.  I played with the speed, just took to long with that blade.

I think Anthonyz is correct.  The blade is great for drywall.  I used the circular blade on drywall and worked like a champ.

Eric

So, I guess that Festool should  call it drywall blade rather than a wood blade.  [scratch chin]

LOL !    Or you and I need a Vecturo class.  [wink]

Eric
 
To me, it kind of looks like you are trying to use it as a circular saw. It can do stuff similar to that, but isn't supposed to be a replacement for one.
 
i find that people are using to high of an rpm and too low of a feed rate. the multi cut is an underpowered thing. the supercut and the vecturo are the same thing. take advantage of the greater torque and lower the rpm and gently increase pressure.
 
Moving the blade and tool forwards and backwards helps exit the dust.  This will also help keep the blade cooler and speed the cut.  That has been my experience anyways.

Peter
 
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