Wall Texture Removal.

jwkilgore

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Joined
Apr 27, 2014
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9
I have a customer that has a light texture on the wall. They used a sponge to sponge paint the wall which has created a very light texture. What is the best way to remove the texture? Or, is there a way to level the wall without removing the texture to create a smooth Finish. I was thinking of spraying the walls with the level five finish building it up so that I had a smooth surface to work from. Does this sound like a viable option?
 
I would knock it down with a broad knife as much as possible and then skim coat it with durabond. You could add some structolite into the mix if needed but usually not needed for a light texture. Depending on what kind of paint, might need to do a light sand so that new product can bond. I would definitely prime before painting.
 
How much texture are we talking about?

I use EZ-Sand for this a lot, but tend to have deeper texture to fill.  With something that thing, I wonder if you'd be better off with a drying-type compound.  The durabond and EZ-Sand can sometimes dry out before they cure when applied too thinly, which isn't ideal.

A lot of pros like 90 minute setting type followed by topping compound.  Come back and sand and prime the next day.  I'm not a pro, but I think I'm going to try this tomorrow afternoon in my closet (just removed 5 layers of wallpaper and the plaster underneath is in pretty rough shape).  Supposedly it's a better finish than just ez-sand or just durabond.

-Adam

 
Knock off the high spots with a sander or drywall knife. Prime next. Primer before starting to skim will help prevent bubbles in the mud and gives you more even drying and adhesion of the skim coat. I prefer to thin AP mud and roll it on with a 3/4" roller. I apply a foot or two and then knife it flat. I do this because it keeps a wet edge as I work across the wall or ceiling. For a heavily textured surface plan on two skim coats sanding in between. This is where the Planex rules!!!
 
I think [member=22025]overanalyze[/member] has it right for this scenario.

I just redid a closet and an accent wall this past week.  The closet needed a lot of work, so I skimmed the walls and ceiling with 90, 45, and then touched up with all purpose.  It took a while and honestly, cleaning out the buckets can be a drag when it's 40 degrees outside.

The accent wall just had a lot of texture from years of repaints, so I used all purpose.  I didn't prime, but I knew the wall had been repainted two years ago with an acrylic paint.  I don't think my mud so much, but similar to [member=22025]overanalyze[/member] , I work a couple feet at a time, applying the compound and then knifing it flat.  It moves pretty quickly once you get into a rhythm.      I can't scrape as well with a trowel as a knife, so I will trowel on and knife off.  Make sure to slightly favor the wet side of the trowel so that you don't drag through where you just smoothed.

The other thing is, make sure you seal your skim coat well once it's applied.  I'm still a novice, but I've used Zinsser123 and Primecoat in the past.  This time, I put on some BM Super Spec Masonry sealer... I think it should equalize everything.

-Adam
 
Depending upon the quality of the paint job you might be able to get it to release with some warm water and then scrape it off and then refloat it. If you can't I sometimes sand the walls, float and paint.
 
Over the winter I bought the WE 15-125 HD SET GED and W 12-125 HD SET CED PLUS, and indeed they are sweet.  Plus W 12-125 comes in systainer compatible container.  The 15-125 I put in a Midi.
 
rst said:
Over the winter I bought the WE 15-125 HD SET GED and W 12-125 HD SET CED PLUS, and indeed they are sweet.  Plus W 12-125 comes in systainer compatible container.  The 15-125 I put in a Midi.

I bought the WEV 15-125 HT, and purchased the should + cup wheel and track guide assembly separately. I lose the systainer, but I wanted the flexibility of getting it as a variable speed.
 
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