I had made a live edge dining table a couple of months back and needed a sideboard to compliment it.
Walnut was sourced rough sawn and planed to 3/4” thickness.
I started by cutting, welding, grinding, and painting the base. I used 1” square tubing.
Overall dimensions of the sideboard is 6’ long, 18” deep, 33” high. The leg assembly is about 19” tall and the wooden cabinet is about 14” tall. Cabinet is attached to the base with screws from the bottom through oversized holes to accommodate wood movement.
Drawers are dovetailed maple interiors with adjustable stops on the back that I added before installing the back to the cabinet.
I was lucky to find a piece of walnut for the door fronts that had what looks like a book matched pattern but in fact was a single board that had what looks like mirrored faces for the doors. Cabinet has 5/8” adjustable shelves on either side.
Knotholes in the bottom piece were filled with epoxy and transtint dye. They are only visible when the cabinet is opened.
I was able to cut around the rest of the knot holes in the #2 common walnut pieces I had purchased.
The leaf hinges were mortised before assembly in the cabinet sides and door fronts with a bearing guided mortise bit and a guide I had made to match the hinge size. This made attaching and aligning hinges so much easier.
Festools used included tracksaw and assorted rails, Domino 500, CT26, OF700 for mortising for the back and edge routing a chamfer on the top, a 1010 router and LR32 for the adjustable shelves and a 1010 with bearing guided bit for the hinges. Sanding used several FT sanders. I sanded to 220 grit and finished with three coats of General Finishes Satin Wipe-on Poly followed by a coat of paste wax.
Overall a fun project that blends metal and wood.
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Walnut was sourced rough sawn and planed to 3/4” thickness.
I started by cutting, welding, grinding, and painting the base. I used 1” square tubing.
Overall dimensions of the sideboard is 6’ long, 18” deep, 33” high. The leg assembly is about 19” tall and the wooden cabinet is about 14” tall. Cabinet is attached to the base with screws from the bottom through oversized holes to accommodate wood movement.
Drawers are dovetailed maple interiors with adjustable stops on the back that I added before installing the back to the cabinet.
I was lucky to find a piece of walnut for the door fronts that had what looks like a book matched pattern but in fact was a single board that had what looks like mirrored faces for the doors. Cabinet has 5/8” adjustable shelves on either side.
Knotholes in the bottom piece were filled with epoxy and transtint dye. They are only visible when the cabinet is opened.
I was able to cut around the rest of the knot holes in the #2 common walnut pieces I had purchased.
The leaf hinges were mortised before assembly in the cabinet sides and door fronts with a bearing guided mortise bit and a guide I had made to match the hinge size. This made attaching and aligning hinges so much easier.
Festools used included tracksaw and assorted rails, Domino 500, CT26, OF700 for mortising for the back and edge routing a chamfer on the top, a 1010 router and LR32 for the adjustable shelves and a 1010 with bearing guided bit for the hinges. Sanding used several FT sanders. I sanded to 220 grit and finished with three coats of General Finishes Satin Wipe-on Poly followed by a coat of paste wax.
Overall a fun project that blends metal and wood.
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