Wardrobe Using CMS

J

jmbfestool

Member
Joined
Jan 9, 2009
Messages
6,646
I finished my little project to day which was buildng a wardrobe. I first had to hang a few door and fit skirting on architrave on this job and take down a wall and remove existing cupboard before I was able to start my project.

Any why its my first time making my own doors.  As the company I use to work for always made them and I just built the wardrobes and fitted the doors.

Any way here are some pictures!  Its my first door making job so just so you know dont be nasty!

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I dont know if you notice but you can see some grinding marks on top well there use to be a ball bearing wheel on it but I took it of as it restricts the depth!
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I had some music going!!! BOOM BOOM
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JMB,  I think it is nasty.Very nasty. I could not watch anymore.  But,if you ship your CMS to me,i will delete this reply and put a very nice one!!! [laughing] [laughing] [laughing] [laughing]
 
Ill report you for bullying! lol

No I want it! lol I have not used it much its really the first job I have proper used it. At one point I thought maybe I have bought it to soon! Using it with the Kapex UG extensions is definitely a must.

JMB
 
Should be painted next week so hopefully it will look nicer.  Ill take some photos.  Ill still be on the job because they want me to do some more work going their tomoro to price it all up.  New flooring all down stairs and replace hand rail mule post and spindles so be a few days so hopefully be painted by then.

JMB
 
Looking good dude.  These type of things never look their best until all the paint work is finished etc but i can see it is going to be nice.
The re-furb on the stairs sounds interesting.  Just be carefull when replacing the newel posts as they are a very integral part of the stairs strength.

Cheers, Woodguy.
 
Hi JMB,

That`s a nice job. [smile].

Good solution to the cut doors.

You said you wanted a little constructive criticism.

Well. It`s a good job, you could improve it by varying the size of the door rails. little heavier on the bottom and lock rail would be good and make the visual impact greater. apart from that its nice.

One tip for you ,

MDF knocks hell out of your router cutters especially the large diameter ones. If you set up your router shy of the finished cut and run the MDF backwards (climb cutting) and then finish with the final past the normal way you will increase the life of the cutter and have a crisp mould.  If you then prime the cut section and let it dry and then re machine the final finish will be spot on.(priming the moulded section, raises the cut fibers and hardens them , so the final re machine past really nails it).

Apart from the above , every credit to you , good job!!!!! mean that. You can go on from this with some with some tweaks to raise the level  a bit . But as I said sterling effort and a very professional job

Regards John
 
Awesome work! Nice to see that CMS review coming on well  ;)

Just one thing I wanted to ask. In regards to the double doors why did you make the hinges on opposite sides? I would have put them both on the same side so you could open one door if you want to. I've never done something like that before and it was just something I thought of.

Anyway again great job, it really does look professional.
 
windmill man said:
Hi JMB,

That`s a nice job. [smile].

Good solution to the cut doors.

You said you wanted a little constructive criticism.

Well. It`s a good job, you could improve it by varying the size of the door rails. little heavier on the bottom and lock rail would be good and make the visual impact greater. apart from that its nice.

One tip for you ,

MDF knocks hell out of your router cutters especially the large diameter ones. If you set up your router shy of the finished cut and run the MDF backwards (climb cutting) and then finish with the final past the normal way you will increase the life of the cutter and have a crisp mould.  If you then prime the cut section and let it dry and then re machine the final finish will be spot on.(priming the moulded section, raises the cut fibers and hardens them , so the final re machine past really nails it).

Apart from the above , every credit to you , good job!!!!! mean that. You can go on from this with some with some tweaks to raise the level  a bit . But as I said sterling effort and a very professional job

Regards John
Click to expand...

Thank you very much

Thank you for the tip.   I did use MDF sealer to harden the fibres Rustins Quick Dry MDF  it kinda looked like water down PVA.  Any way I then with a bit of sand paper sanded it smooth took some time though.  

I will definitely do what you said  going backwards then final cut forward to prolong the cutters.  I like the idea of sealing the MDF and then sending it through the cutter again ill definitely try that out I didnt like doing the sanding lol Well never thought of doing that so thanks you for the advice much appreciated..

Well the owner just wanted plane doors they didnt want to spend alot of money. Then they didnt want it to look modern as plain doors will look to modern they said they also didnt want something which takes alot of dusting lol So not to fancy not to modern thats what I had to stick to but still keep the cost low hence softwood and MDF panels.  Thats why I designed it like how it is. Using Skethup showed them and they said yes so I went for it.

Can you explain to me or show me what you mean. Im little confused to how your saying the doors design should be like sorry.

Cheers
JMB
 
Chris,
Dont quite know if i understand your question but if you are referring to the full and cut door configuration, if you had hinged them in the normal manner you would not be able to open the cut door because of the roof line. Think i may have misunderstood you. no offence if i am stating the obvious.

John
 
Chris Meggersee said:
Awesome work! Nice to see that CMS review coming on well  ;)

Just one thing I wanted to ask. In regards to the double doors why did you make the hinges on opposite sides? I would have put them both on the same side so you could open one door if you want to. I've never done something like that before and it was just something I thought of.

Anyway again great job, it really does look professional.
Click to expand...

Well I was going to just like you said you can open one door leaving the other closed. I asked the client what she wanted as I said you have two options 1 the one you just mentioned or 2 you can fold the door flat back so you can walk past while the door is open and isnt spread across  As option one wont let you fold the door flatback while folded only if you unfold it will it go flat back which then goes across both doors. I properly would of gone with option one as it is no big deal really but she said no I want them to fold like this so I said fair enough.

IF you look at picture where the door is open and folder well you cant do that with the hinges on the other side.  And if you look at the picture below how its folded out I just did it for show but you would have to do that if you was to have the door hinged the other way.

JMB
 
windmill man said:
Chris,
Dont quite know if i understand your question but if you are referring to the full and cut door configuration, if you had hinged them in the normal manner you would not be able to open the cut door because of the roof line. Think i may have misunderstood you. no offence if i am stating the obvious.

John
Click to expand...

I think you miss understood him unless I miss understood him.  Lol what he means is the hinges in between the two doors he said why didnt I have it hinging the other way. So infect the first door acting like a frame so you can just open the first door leaving the other closed.

JMB
 
Very nice.  Wish we could get the CMS in the states.  But that's not going to happen.

Don
 
Hi Jmb,

First , you did the right thing using the Ruskins sealer. A far cheaper way is to use a water based undercoat or primer. Does the same job but lot cheaper and the painter will love you for it. Drys quick too. If you dont get the finish you want first time. apply a second heavy coat let it dry increase the cut by a nats knacker and re machine that normally sorts it.

What I mean about the doors is this. If you look at a normal door the bottom and middle(lock rail) is wider than the styles and top rail. The top rail and styles are generally the same width and the lock rail is 1/3 wider than those and the bottom rail is the same if not slightly bigger . This is for both constructional and aesthetic reasons.  The aesthetic bit is about how your eyes work and proportion.

I think with the design brief given to you by your customer , you have hit the design bang on. Well done.

John
 
Bottom one does look bigger to me and as far as the middle and top it works in this room.  :)  Nice work!

 
nickao said:
Bottom one does look bigger to me and as far as the middle and top it works in this room.  :)  Nice work!
Click to expand...

Yes the bottom one is bigger. Well Noticed! lol  Cheers

JMB
 
I like how you did the hinges on the upper right door(above the plumbing stubs), sweet!
 
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