Wardrobe Using CMS

[jmbfestool]

Awesome work! Nice to see that CMS review coming on well 

Just one thing I wanted to ask. In regards to the double doors why did you make the hinges on opposite sides? I would have put them both on the same side so you could open one door if you want to. I've never done something like that before and it was just something I thought of.

Anyway again great job, it really does look professional.

I just did a little drawing on Paint lol cus I cant explain well lol

The Human is kind a where you have to stand to avoid the door going into your face as you open it.

 

[nickao]

You did great for such a weird room layout, not much you can do. You are getting me motivated to start up on my home renovation again. 

 

[jmbfestool]

You did great for such a weird room layout, not much you can do. You are getting me motivated to start up on my home renovation again. 

Well the other side with the 3 full length doors well that has the Roof Hip coming into the room. You cant see it on the picture because I have got the wardrobe right on the point but I had the angle the top of the wooden frame work because it was going at two angles! Was hard!  gettin it straight and plume with the rest of the frame work.  You know what I mean?!?!? The double angle?!  IF not ill take a photo next time.  I dont know how to explain it sorry. 

Well that use to be the bathroom. I took the wall down between bedroom and bathroom. Really small bathroom! [eek]  The new bathroom is much better size.

JMB

 

[FEStastic]

Nice work

what glue did you use and how long in clamps?
Also why not euro hinges ?

Looking forward to finished pics

 

[junk731]

Nice clean job. Just one comment on the full length doors, they look great with the long stile but you may find with temperature / humidity changes it will be difficult to keep the doors flat and aligned with each other without some kind of mechanical latch.  Sanding MDF with 320 grit also helps in the grain raising department.

John

 

[jmbfestool]

Nice work

what glue did you use and how long in clamps?
Also why not euro hinges ?

Looking forward to finished pics

I used polyurethane glue.  

1. It sets quick
2. It strong glue.
3. I was making them out side because I haven't built my workshop yet! polyurethane still goes of quick even out side if its abit cold.

Time well polyurethane takes about 5 mins I left them in the clamp for 10 mins while I was sanding the door which I had already glued up.

Euro hinges (Plumb hinges?)  Well

1. They sag a little bit with heavier doors
2. They dont fold right back (unless you get the wider angled ones but they still dont fold right back flat.
3. They are easier to use if you face mount doors but I wanted them set in and I know you can get flush ones or rebate is so you can use normal but I tought its just easier to use standard hinges.
4. COST Euro hinges cost more and I had to keep the budget low as possible

JMB

 

[jmbfestool]

Nice clean job. Just one comment on the full length doors, they look great with the long stile but you may find with temperature / humidity changes it will be difficult to keep the doors flat and aligned with each other without some kind of mechanical latch.  Sanding MDF with 320 grit also helps in the grain raising department.

John

I have used strong Ball catches you have to give the doors a good push the close them onto the cathes. I hope these will hold the doors flat when shut.

JMB

 

[FEStastic]

Thanks

Are you using tube or bottle ?

I most often use the euro as it what i am used to
I work out the number needed by thinking a standard kitchen door has 2 so multiples of kitchen door plus 1 or 2 if heaver then normal door
I find the adjustments and ease of dismounting the door helps fit and finishing.
The sprung nature of the hinge helps keep tall doors straight as well
A cheap option for the hinges is Ikea 5 pounds for 4  at 110 degrees  but they do have Ikea stamped on them  lol

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

I want a dang CMS already. [mad]

 

[windmill man]

Hi JMB

Right choice for the hinges, especially with the frame construction method. You could have used the Euro hinge but they are a PIA unless you went for carcase construction and would not think them worth the effort/ benefit on this job.

Blum/Euro/Boss hinges dont sag. You just need to use the correct number for the size and weight of the door. (blum website has a chart to calculate this) In this case I think it would have blown the budget as you would have needed about 5 per full door. Butts was the sensible way to go.

John

 

[jmbfestool]

Thanks

Are you using tube or bottle ?

I most often use the euro as it what i am used to
I work out the number needed by thinking a standard kitchen door has 2 so multiples of kitchen door plus 1 or 2 if heaver then normal door
I find the adjustments and ease of dismounting the door helps fit and finishing.
The sprung nature of the hinge helps keep tall doors straight as well
A cheap option for the hinges is Ikea 5 pounds for 4  at 110 degrees   but they do have Ikea stamped on them  lol

I used both.  I used tube but I ran out so I had 3 bottles so carried on using that.  I prefer tube for this kinda job though as it goes of quicker but also doesn't expand as much so its less messy but also less messy to apply.

JMB

 

[jmbfestool]

Hi JMB

Right choice for the hinges, especially with the frame construction method. You could have used the Euro hinge but they are a PIA unless you went for carcase construction and would not think them worth the effort/ benefit on this job.

Blum/Euro/Boss hinges dont sag. You just need to use the correct number for the size and weight of the door. (blum website has a chart to calculate this) In this case I think it would have blown the budget as you would have needed about 5 per full door. Butts was the sensible way to go.

John

Im glad I made the right choice  [wink]  but like you said 3 would not of done the job so would of cost alot more money which was a no no but also because of the lack of space the end door can open right back out of the way.

Cheers

JMB

 

[jmbfestool]

Here is a video of the double doors.

I wasnt going to show it because their is abit of filler above the hinge and it looks messy! I hadn't sanded it yet when I made the video! So I was going to wait and make another but!  Alot of people have been talking about these double doors so I thought ill show you in action.

You see on the video one hand to open and close and you only need to pull the middle one because I placed the catches on the end door the other way so it will let you pull the catch out sideways as well as put it back in sideways having it hinges the other way wouldnt let you do this.
Quick Vid

JMB

 

[FEStastic]

well....
 

I don't Know about that Windmill

But its cool we all have different ways of doing things.
I guess because I use them so much I buy bulk and can use them in tighter budget jobs .
I find that there is less clutter with euros as there is no need for ball catches and or magnets
The catches I have found cause problems down the line when things settle or they get knocked in use
There are also some new euros with built in soft closers which add a nice touch to the work.
Still its a  beautiful Job JMB

Thanks    
                    FEStastic

 

[tiralie]

Should be painted next week so hopefully it will look nicer.  Ill take some photos. 

JMB

Looks great!
What paint/color/finish are you going to use?

 

[jmbfestool]

well....
 

I don't Know about that Windmill

But its cool we all have different ways of doing things.
I guess because I use them so much I buy bulk and can use them in tighter budget jobs .
I find that there is less clutter with euros as there is no need for ball catches and or magnets
The catches I have found cause problems down the line when things settle or they get knocked in use
There are also some new euros with built in soft closers which add a nice touch to the work.
Still its a  beautiful Job JMB

Thanks    
                    FEStastic

I know what your saying that the euro hinges keep the doors closed but they dont keep a door out of twist or warp.  So you could end up with the bottom of the door sticking out with cathes they keep the door flush.  I used softwood which tend to move abit so euro hinges would not prevent the doors going out of line and you can end up with all the doors twisted and nothing to keep them fully closed.

JMB

 

[windmill man]

Festastic

Not knocking the euro .I use more of them now than butts and i agree about the catches etc. I have found in frame doors are easier with butts. There are some fantastic new hadware bits out there that are a great improvement an the old hard ware. I am having a hard time with blumotion drawer system at the moment. want to start using it with my own small production runs but getting good installation info is not easy or i am looking in the wrong places. made some real cock ups and they are just not working for me at the moment. [big grin]

John

 

[jmbfestool]

Should be painted next week so hopefully it will look nicer.  Ill take some photos. 

JMB

Looks great!
What paint/color/finish are you going to use?

I am not painting. They said when I was discussing with them what they wanted they wanted to paint it them selfs! They are both retired they said its something for them to do. I just said fair enough its up to you. I was glad really dont really like painting!

JMB

 

[jmbfestool]

I like euro hinges!  I am not fond of the one with self closers though I have fitted a few kitchens with them and they tend to push the door out at the hinge I like the blume soft closers which you drill into the edge or you can use a clip and clip it to where the hinges go on the opposite side.

Just like I said though and what WindMill said this job the cost was the main factor but I do think plume hinges wont be good enough for these types of doors because of the chances of them slightly warping euro hinges are not strong enough to pull the door shut and straighten the door to the frame. If I was fitting full MDF doors then euro hinges would of been fine.

JMB

 

[FEStastic]

which is greater

relief at not having to paint or worry about someone else painting your work badly. I go through that all the time  [eek]