water base clear coat vs others
- Thread starter nate858
- Start date
Woodenfish
Member
- Joined
- Jan 26, 2007
- Messages
- 291
IMO, there is no one perfect finish for all projects but only compromises.
In the end what matters to me is what species of wood is it, what the piece will be used for and how much time do I have to finish it.
In the end what matters to me is what species of wood is it, what the piece will be used for and how much time do I have to finish it.
Jerry Work
Member
- Joined
- Jan 16, 2007
- Messages
- 307
Hi Nate,
The rate of progress in the WB finish area has brought many new finishes to market in the last few years. I am partial to those made by Target Coatings. They paid me to write a manual for them, but I only did so after having purchased and used their materials and found them to be best of breed from my POV. (BTW, at my request a significant part of the writing fee was paid for with their material which I use every day in my studio). You can download that manual for free from their web site or from minehttp://jerrywork.com.
For fine furniture there are two basic choices. If you want to maintain and enhance the natural color of the wood you are using, two or three coats of the WB pre-cat conversion varnish sprayed over their Universal Sealer as a base coat is hard to beat. It always looks a bit glossier than you might expect as it flows out like glass so I suggest you use one gloss lower than you think you want. For example, if you want a satin look, use flat. The Target CV cures out very clear with no white or gray tinge like some of the older formulations from other manufacturers did. If you want the amber look of oil and/or want to really pop the grain in highly figured woods, I like the hydrolized linseed oil WB conversion varnish they call "Hybrivar". While it sounds like a contradiction since we were all taught that oil and water don't mix, the linseed oil in this material does much the same thing to the color and look of the wood as you find in most oil based materials without all the negative side issues from using oil based materials.
I used to recommend shooting WB lacquer for vertical surfaces because it is cheaper and save the more expensive conversion varnishes for the horizontal surfaces that really need the water and chemical resistance they bring. Over time I found myself just shooting the CV for all surfaces as the time required to differentiate overcomes the difference in the cost of the materials.
While I always recommend four stage turbines, your three stage turbine will do fine so long as you calibrate the viscosity required by your turbine and gun. Cut four pieces about 2' x 2' from the same material as test pieces. Shoot one just as the material comes out of the can. Dilute 5% with distilled water and shoot the second test, 10% for the third and 20% for the fourth. Judge which dilution works best for your set up. Go to an automotive paint store and buy a cheap "viscosity meter". This is just a cup with a hole in the bottom. In use, you fill the cup and time how long it takes for the material to flow out the hole. From that point forward, so long as you are using the same material, dilute to achieve the same viscosity and watch your outcomes improve dramatically. When you get a different material, do the same kind of test and record the correct viscosity for your turbine/gun/material combination. I find all WB finishes can vary in viscosity from can to can of the same material. And, turbines and guns from different manufacturers vary in how well the atomize materials of different viscosity. This process will calibrate your equipment.
Hope this helps. Have fun. You and your family (and your neighbors) will really appreciate not having to put up with the volatile organics emitted by all oil based finishes. And, your furniture projects will take on a much more professional appearance than just lathering on some oil concoction.
Jerry
The rate of progress in the WB finish area has brought many new finishes to market in the last few years. I am partial to those made by Target Coatings. They paid me to write a manual for them, but I only did so after having purchased and used their materials and found them to be best of breed from my POV. (BTW, at my request a significant part of the writing fee was paid for with their material which I use every day in my studio). You can download that manual for free from their web site or from minehttp://jerrywork.com.
For fine furniture there are two basic choices. If you want to maintain and enhance the natural color of the wood you are using, two or three coats of the WB pre-cat conversion varnish sprayed over their Universal Sealer as a base coat is hard to beat. It always looks a bit glossier than you might expect as it flows out like glass so I suggest you use one gloss lower than you think you want. For example, if you want a satin look, use flat. The Target CV cures out very clear with no white or gray tinge like some of the older formulations from other manufacturers did. If you want the amber look of oil and/or want to really pop the grain in highly figured woods, I like the hydrolized linseed oil WB conversion varnish they call "Hybrivar". While it sounds like a contradiction since we were all taught that oil and water don't mix, the linseed oil in this material does much the same thing to the color and look of the wood as you find in most oil based materials without all the negative side issues from using oil based materials.
I used to recommend shooting WB lacquer for vertical surfaces because it is cheaper and save the more expensive conversion varnishes for the horizontal surfaces that really need the water and chemical resistance they bring. Over time I found myself just shooting the CV for all surfaces as the time required to differentiate overcomes the difference in the cost of the materials.
While I always recommend four stage turbines, your three stage turbine will do fine so long as you calibrate the viscosity required by your turbine and gun. Cut four pieces about 2' x 2' from the same material as test pieces. Shoot one just as the material comes out of the can. Dilute 5% with distilled water and shoot the second test, 10% for the third and 20% for the fourth. Judge which dilution works best for your set up. Go to an automotive paint store and buy a cheap "viscosity meter". This is just a cup with a hole in the bottom. In use, you fill the cup and time how long it takes for the material to flow out the hole. From that point forward, so long as you are using the same material, dilute to achieve the same viscosity and watch your outcomes improve dramatically. When you get a different material, do the same kind of test and record the correct viscosity for your turbine/gun/material combination. I find all WB finishes can vary in viscosity from can to can of the same material. And, turbines and guns from different manufacturers vary in how well the atomize materials of different viscosity. This process will calibrate your equipment.
Hope this helps. Have fun. You and your family (and your neighbors) will really appreciate not having to put up with the volatile organics emitted by all oil based finishes. And, your furniture projects will take on a much more professional appearance than just lathering on some oil concoction.
Jerry
nate858 said:
Jeeesh, Jerry, couldn't you be more specific. ;D
Really, this is a great post for me as well. I have just started using WBs and I really like the environmental advantages they offer. I think I will print your response out and keep it close to my heart.
Really, this is a great post for me as well. I have just started using WBs and I really like the environmental advantages they offer. I think I will print your response out and keep it close to my heart.
greg mann said:
Or you could just go to his website and read this then print it out and keep it under [attachimg=#]your pillow.
;D
Eiji
