Water based clear coat?

[wnagle]

Justin,

I've had good results to far.  I finished a cradle and sprayed it with the ML Campbells Agualente water bourne pre cat lacquer.  I used the 2mm tip that came with the earlex.  It was a difficult peice to start with with the spindles and the inside vertical and horizontal surface.  But I got it done, 5 or 6 coats with some sanding in between where needed.  Since then I've picked up the 1mm and 1.5mm tips and sprayed some NGR dye on cherry.  I used the 1mm tip for the dye and it worked well.  It just took more dye than I expecte4d and I ran out as I was finishing.  I still need to do some touch up where I was running out of dye.  Then when I go to do the topcaot, I'm gonna try the other tips and see if I get a little better atomization than I did with the 2mm.  I'm thinking the 1.5 will work, but we'll see.

 

[jaegerhund]

Cool Wayne -- sounds like fun.  I would like to venture into the wonderful world of spraying soon --- right now I'm doing as much "read-up" as I can.  I'm just a hobbyist so no hurry for me.  The Earlex looks nice (especially price wise) but I would hate to find out its limitations in short order ---- but some are saying that it even handles latex paints and heavier water-based finishes fairly well (with right tip).  Thanks for the update,

Justin

 

[wnagle]

Justin,

You might want to check out this site...http://thewoodwhisperer.tv/

Marc Spagnoulo did a review on the Earlex... you can look through his videos and check it out....

 

[Overtime]

Quote from Dave R

"and the metal strainer screen I use on the fluid inlet of my spray gun.  The screens are brass with galvanized steel tops and bottoms.  If I leave the USL in the gun cup while waiting for the previously sprayed coating to dry enough so I can knock down any dust nibs (about 1 hour), the chemical reaction by then causes the USL in the cup to turn from white to blue."

Dave, bummer 

My Fuji has an all "nylon" screen and I have not had the issue you have.
I'm able to leave the the USL in the sprayer for as long as 8 - 10 hrs if needed with no ill effects.
My container is aluminium and so far so good on that.

My tube diameter is 3/8"
and the part is    Fuji  -  9044 Paint Strainer
It just slips on and off. Might work for ya ?

Got to keep the upper rims of the cans very clean where the lids fit.
And even still some brownish rust like residue forms (takes a while) around the inner rims. remove lid, Using a rag holding it under the lip of the can wipe and catch any crap around the rim and lid. Some may fall into the can and if I can't dab it out with a napkin or if there is lots of gunk I'll strain it.

Also find that when working from gallon cans it's a good idea to use fresh quart cans when down to 1/2 gal. Or for long term storage.

I like the Target products and my best results come when using Ultraseal WB shellac first as the seal coat prior to the clear coats.
  When using the EM8800, USL or Hybrivar (thinned) for sealer coats , I am never quite happy with the lack of grain popping effect.

So I use one of the WB shellacs always, (almost)  mostly amber at least 2 coats brushed / rubbed into grain then wiped off. I rarely spray seal coats because most woods absorb the first coat and drink it in. And it is easy to control  the tone and uniformity when brushing and wiping off. More coats - richer darker tone.
  But when the first seal coat is sprayed it is tricky to get good saturation for grain presentation with out getting surface too wet resulting in runs then more sanding. If the first seal coat is sprayed too lightly then the poors are partially closed but dry, giving a poor grain depth. The following coats just cover over a "locked in" lame start. Could be I'm not that good at spraying a seal coat or two ?

 
  Thinned Hybrivar is very good as a sealer if you really need a clear finish but I still prefer using the WB shellac first.

 

[Dave Ronyak]

Thanks, Patrick.  My HVLP equipment is Fuji brand, too. 

I should have also stated that I have not seen any ill effects from that slight bluing of the finish remaining in the cup, when later sprayed.

Dave R.