What clamps do you use when sanding?

Yeon

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Jun 2, 2016
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I was wondering what some of you out there with more experience than myself use to clamp pieces when sanding.

I've recently purchased an ETS EC 125/3 sander and found very quickly that if your piece is clamped down it tends to want to jump around a lot and be difficult to control.

I've been running into two issues though. First using F-type clamps it's a pain to have to move the clamp on each side of the workpiece twice since you obviously can't sand under where it is touching the surface without doing so. Secondly I am working with 5/4 pine and since it is a soft wood I'm finding the clamps easily mar the surface. I've tried placing a scrap piece between the clamp and the finished piece but it doesn't always solve the marring problem and is just clumsy and time consuming to keep resetting up.

Thanks in advance for any tips/suggestions you all may have.
 
I assume you have an MFT?  Festool Clamping elements then:http://festoolusa.com/power-tool-accessories/guide-rails/clamps/clamping-elements-2-pack-488030

There are some aftermarket options from Armor, or Rockler and Bessey, though they are work-surface dependent:
http://armor-tool.com/
https://www.amazon.com/Bessey-STC-IHH25-Horizontal-Auto-Adjust-Clamping/dp/B0057PUFMG
http://www.rockler.com/auto-lock-t-track-clamp

EDIT: If you don't have holes or tracks in your work-surface for clamp mounting then another option is some kind of anti-slip mat:
http://www.rockler.com/non-slip-router-mat
 
There is a screen type of rubber material that one puts under a rug to keep from going CU/TU when a rug is on a polished wood floor.

Any rubbery material between the part and the table usually works.
If the speed is too slow it tends to grab, so there is some optimum between clamping and speed that need attention.
 

Holmz said:
There is a screen type of rubber material that one puts under a rug to keep from going CU/TU when a rug is on a polished wood floor.

Any rubbery material between the part and the table usually works.
If the speed is too slow it tends to grab, so there is some optimum between clamping and speed that need attention.

[size=13pt]I tend not too clamp, resting the timber or work piece on Foam Matts. This assists in preventing vibration scratches on the opposite surface, and generally lowers overall vibration.

I also use these mats for Tracksaw work. They are fairly cheep. Around  A$12 for pkt  of 4 at 500 sq mm each, and available at most hardware/big box stores.


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[member=19746]Untidy Shop[/member] And they even have clamping holes  [tongue]
 
Edward A Reno III said:
[member=19746]Untidy Shop[/member] And they even have clamping holes  [tongue]

And the colour...  [tongue]
 
For long narrow ( 1 x 12 or less ) I like to use the 600 lb quick grip clamps by Irwin, anything larger clamping elements or whatever else works or is handy.
 
Furniture moving pads, place the piece on it and sand away (or the Vac-Sys).

Tom
 
[size=8pt]
Holmz said:
Edward A Reno III said:
[member=19746]Untidy Shop[/member] And they even have clamping holes  [tongue]
And the colour...  [tongue]
[size=13pt]
Well yes [member=40772]Holmz[/member] , there are other colours available, but naturally one goes for green!  [tongue] [big grin]

[member=37411]Edward A Reno III[/member] , you do with a  [tongue],  none the less, provide a great suggestion for those with an MFT who may wish to use both Festool Quick Clamps and these foam matts.  [smile]
 
Untidy Shop said:
[size=8pt]
Holmz said:
Edward A Reno III said:
[member=19746]Untidy Shop[/member] And they even have clamping holes  [tongue]
And the colour...  [tongue]
[size=13pt]
Well yes [member=40772]Holmz[/member] , there are other colours available, but naturally one goes for green!  [tongue] [big grin]

[member=37411]Edward A Reno III[/member] , you do with a  [tongue],  none the less, provide a great suggestion for those with an MFT who may wish to use both Festool Quick Clamps and these foam matts.  [smile]


My local Sam's Club sells these mats in packages with multi colors included.  They are the one's that fit together like puzzle pieces, and can be used in either a shop environment, or equally as effective, a child's playroom (which, if you think about it, are the same thing).
 
In my classes we were taught to either rest our work on the mat type material mentioned, but we also learned to clamp with a shallow clamp on the sides only. Both Festool and Veritas (Lee Valley) have shallow side clamps that can be used for sanding and/or carving to prevent marring the surface.
 
As mentioned already, the Festool clamping elements.
They work perfectly.

If the wood is thinner than the height of the elements in put shims under the workpiece to raise the height

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

 
If some kind of soft grippy foam is inadequate then I use a lightweight Quick Grip (Irwin) 12" clamp. I prefer the low mass and thin springy bar on the long small version as it's easier to work with and is less damaging when I drop it on soft wood. (I also use hot glue to build a soft bumper around the sharp rivet end of the bar)
 
I've been using Rockler's bench cookies and they seem to do well. 

I would guess you could also make some non-slip blocks by gluing the anti-slip mat material to scraps.

Best,
Adam

 
Lots of methods.  Plus one on Rockler Bench Cookies, Carpet Pads and Lee Valley thin clamping system.
I own all 3, and they work well in each of their pros and cons.
You can also make wedges out of thinner material than what you're sanding to clamp against the edges or sides . Using wedges, it helps to have a workbench top with holes to have an easy way to work a wedge system against a stop or clamp.
 
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