what do i need to make a router table?

russ_1380

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Jun 7, 2009
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hi all

I have a nice Festool 1400 in 240v guise.

I'm quite new to all this and after much web research, I still can't tell exactly what I need to make a basic router table.

The carcass/table will be dominoed mdf, that bits easy.  What I don't understand is what collet size, plate etc I will need.  Looking online most retailers mention they sell parts to allow 'most standard sized routers to fit' but does this include Festool?

Could some kind soul please show me a link that explains it all  ???

http://www.axminster.co.uk/kreg-kreg-precision-router-table-insert-plate-prod789751/
 
I doubt you would have any problem mounting the 1400 on any standard router table plate, but I'll let someone who's done it give you a definitive answer.  I suggest, however, that you consider leaving your Festool router out of the table and instead put a dedicated (cheaper) router or router motor in the table.  You'll lose most of the benefits of having a Festool router if you put it in a table.  And even if your plan is to swap the router in and out of the table, you'll find it tremendously more convenient not to.  Assuming your not cost-prohibited, you can find an adequate router (or motor) for a fraction of the 1400's cost.

Good luck.

David
 
lawhoo said:
I doubt you would have any problem mounting the 1400 on any standard router table plate, but I'll let someone who's done it give you a definitive answer.  I suggest, however, that you consider leaving your Festool router out of the table and instead put a dedicated (cheaper) router or router motor in the table.  You'll lose most of the benefits of having a Festool router if you put it in a table.  And even if your plan is to swap the router in and out of the table, you'll find it tremendously more convenient not to.  Assuming your not cost-prohibited, you can find an adequate router (or motor) for a fraction of the 1400's cost.

Good luck.

David

David,

Here in the UK we don't really have any router motors designed for table mounting, as you in the US have. Any router used in a table here is either a pig to adjust, or has a very expensive lift mechanism.

I'd rather have my OF1400 in a table than a cheap crappy router, even if I do have to change it in & out.
 
I have had nigh on a dozen home made tables in one shape or another and also had an Elu 177e in a Triton table (which worked real well though was a pain to set up and breakdown to use the router hand held) currently use the OF2200 in the CMS with router table plate and kit.
The new CMS router plate will allow any Festool router to be installed and makes my set up feel like a portable spindle moulder ;D It is far and away the best set up I have ever used.
Set up time is around 10 mins to start with, but with practice: ie. not having to refer back to the manual  [laughing] it gets much, much easier and quicker to do. So much so I use the OF2200 for everything making my other two routers redundant. ( I am lusting after an OF1400 though for it's light weight, versatility and dust extraction capabilities for the smaller jobs though)
If you can swing it get the CMS and Router plate or even the router plate ( has built in router lift ) and design your own table/bench around it, the fence is top quality too.
Just my thoughts for what they are worth.
Rob.
 
A quick question: Do you plan using large diameter cutters?  Pat Warner's table doesn't have an insert, which makes for a really smooth feed:
http://www.patwarner.com/router_table.html

And I have to agree, swapping a router in and out of a table is a pain in the proverbial.  Far better to get an inexpensive router just for the table.  The Triton ones are well worth a look as they don't need a lift; they can both be adjusted through the table:
http://www.tritontools.com/products?more=Power_Tools

I have the smaller of the two.  Is it to Festool's standards?  No, but it's not Festool money either.  It is, however, very well thought out.

I agree with an earlier post that you'll lose most of the benefits of a Festool router of you mount it in a table.

Good luck,

Andrew
 
cheers guys

Hi Jonathon yeah been busy working and at college recently; its all go!

On the plus side, I'm finally getting round to converting the garage in to a multipurpose workshop so hopefully next year I can get making some 'proper' furniture :)

Those router tables do look nice.  I have an old MV12 Hitachi which needs some minor repairs (bushes/handle etc) If I can get hold of these parts I'll use this for the router table.

A quick question; why do you need those router plates people sell?  I understand the idea of a lifting type, but surely can't you just mount the router direct to the table top?  I don't get it.

I only want a really quick and temporary router table for now and once I have my workshop sorted, then I can build a nicer one.

Cheers

Russ

 
Russ,

If the router is mounted in a plate, then you can remove the router with the plate & set the depth with the router the right way up. If the router is directly mounted to the table, then you'll have to set the depth with it in position, which can be very awkward (unless there's some kind of lift mechanism fitted).
 
I think a lot will depend on how you expect to use it; I had a router slung under the table of my old radial arm saw (no plate) and it worked just fine, but then I only used it for very simple rebating and grooving; if you need to work to tenths of a millimetre accuracy, then I'd say it would probably drive you nuts. Don't disagree with JRB re. access for height adjustment and bit-changing, but if you're making it yourself and access is awkward then you only have yourself to blame, really...  ;)

Pete
 
get yourself a good quality plate  (woodpeckers or rosseneau(sorry about the spelling i think) etc). you wont regret it when you build your better table. even better buy a lift. buy this and a good NVR switch for it aswell.
 
I would definitely recommend getting a metal (usually aluminium) plate. My plastic plate rings have cracked and affect my infeed.

The other problem with my router table is the fence does not slide back past the router plate, so I cannot take the plate out without removing the fence. This makes changing bits a major hassle.

These problems relate to my first router table- and to date, my only one- but they are things that I would look to solve when and if I replace it.

On the other hand, I definitely like the feature where the vac and the router re controlled by a single control box.

Richard.
 
cool

I got it now thanks.

Right the plan is to make a really simple table with no plate like the one in the link I posted.  The idea being I will use this just for this project I have going at the mo, the project being.......cupboards for my workshop.  Once I have the cupboards done, i'll have some space to be able to tidy up and make a proper router table in a few months.  Long winded I know, but trust me if you saw my garage and how untidy it is in there/amount of stuff you'd understand.

I see what you are saying about a lift.......Rutlands sells Jessem and Woodpecker versions for similar money.  I think the UK is new to both Jessem and Woodpeckers so how do you guys overseas rate them?  Which one would you prefer?

R
 
They are both good.  The woodpeckers are a bit more innovative.  Their latest has a crank mechanism that mounts to the side of the table to raise and lower the router.  The big problem is finding a lift that will fit the 1400.

One thing that I didn't notice being mentioned is the fence.  Yes you can make one out of scrap; but IMHO the fence makes or breaks the table.  I spent $400  on a incra 25" micro adjustable fence and it made my crummy router table and cheap router quite useful where they weren't before.
 
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