What Do You Think Should Be Better.

[Kevin D.]

I'd been looking at Festool for over 5 years, and after getting over the price/value hump, bought close to $10K in Festool in the past year.  I love this kinda stuff whereby you really do get what you pay for, all in an integrated system that is very well thought out.  But the learning curve, and appreciation level, leave me still thinking that those beyond my hobbiest/tool collector enthusiasm, have me wondering what is the thoughts and perceptions of many on this forum as to what the forumites believe are the shortcomings and further expections from this exceptional manufacturer.

I ask this partly because I would perceive that this question if asked from Shane etc... would be viewed as self serving, but really it is to better discern where the more experienced users see current shortcommings, and where there's a angst/need for the company to focus on potentially in the future for all of our benefit.

Festool is an awsome company in my opinion.  The quality and efficiency along with compatible integration between ancilliary devices/tools is the way that tools should have always been.  Most other companies have only done this via having cordless sets that share the same batteries, which is pathetic in comparison.  Nevertheless, Festool is not perfect, and that's where I seek opinions.  What do folks see as the next step, or even what are their current weaknesses?

(I would prefer that any laments about their pricing structure be left for another discussion.)

I just simply want to derive a non offensive discussion on existing shortcomings, and desired wants in the product line, which I guess is also to help me discern what to want or shy away from to some extent, but also to see where many of the current seasoned members/users are hoping for insofar as either improvements, or new offerings, which although I have read some comments of such in this forum, are somewhat scattered in various threads and would be nice to get under one roof.

Thanks to all in advance for sharing your opinions. [smile]

 

[Frank Pellow]

Kevin the first thing that comes to mind is their "native" documentation.  The manuals that come out of Germany are adequate at best.  

But, this problem has been recognized by Festool USA and they have encouraged folks like Rich Christopherson, Jerry Work, John Lucas, Brice Burrell, and Marc (the Wood Whisperer) to write manuals, how to articles, and videos to augment the bare bones manuals from Festool.

 

[justinmcf]

the ts-55 should have the depth stop calibrated to the guide rail.

so when i set the saw to a cutting depth of 1mm or 55mm, then that should be the depth of cut shown on the workpiece.

its only a minor gripe but i think its still worth mentioning.

 

[justinmcf]

the kapex zero clearance plastic plate which the saw blades drops into is susceptible to expansion depending on the climate it is situated.
i have never had to replace a makita or hitachi zero clearance plate. therefor i was surprised that i had to make my own timber plate.
not acceptable for the most expensive drop saw in the world.

 

[justinmcf]

the cms-ge tablesaw module should have a feather board attachment.
its still a great product, but for the money i paid, i demand perfection.

i also agree with frank.

festool really need to evaluate the manuals for their products.

 

[DimTex]

To call the booklet enclosed with each Festool product a manual is a bit of an overstatement.  I think the bubble wrap in the overpackaging is more instructive.

 

[Jesse Cloud]

I think the VS600 falls short of the Festool standard for ingenuity.  It is a solid tool and will create decent joints with almost no dust, but...  it lacks variable spacing of the tails and will not work on 1/2 inch material - a standard in the US.  If they could come out with something as functional as the Leigh jig, but easier to set up and more robust, that would be a product that would open my pocketbook.

 

[suds]

Maybe not a Festool problem but why do other countries get tools that we do not get?  Probably a discussion we should be having with govt agencies and not Festool but it would be nice to have that availablilty. 

 

[Chas]

This is my tool list / wish list

RTS400            - This should be a 1/4 sheet sander. Its not ballanced and hops all over the place.
OF1400            - The plunge mechanism is mickey mouse and rough.
TRION JIGSAW  - I can't see in the dark
ETS150/3          - No complaints
KAPEX - Where do I start? Level he base, mount the lasers so they don't jiggle about. Make the base easier to turn, provide a proper detent over-ride, dump that plastic plate. Put out a portable base accessory.
Manuals in all cases
Prices in all cases
Standard Measurements in all cases. These mm are a pita and all it is is a sticker half the time. Its a good thing there aren;t 100 degrees in the metric system otherwise we wouldn;t buy festool anything.

 

[Frank Pellow]

This is my tool list / wish list
...
Standard Measurements in all cases. These mm are a pita and all it is is a sticker half the time. Its a good thing there aren;t 100 degrees in the metric system otherwise we wouldn;t buy festool anything.

Metric is the world standard of measurement.  [tongue]  It's only the USA and, to a lesser extent, the UK and Canada that stick to the archaic Imperial measurement system. 

 

[jonny round boy]

Chas,

Just wanted to give some feedback on your post:

This is my tool list / wish list

RTS400             - This should be a 1/4 sheet sander. Its not ballanced and hops all over the place.

Not used one myself, so can't comment. I do have the DTS400 though, and it's perfectly balanced and smooth

OF1400             - The plunge mechanism is mickey mouse and rough.

Disagree 100% - the plunge mechanism is great!

TRION JIGSAW  - I can't see in the dark

Easy fix - don't work in the dark. If there isn't enough ambient light to see where you're cutting, then should you really be using power tools? I wouldn't.

ETS150/3          - No complaints

Agreed - it's my favourite sander

KAPEX - Where do I start? Level he base, mount the lasers so they don't jiggle about. Make the base easier to turn, provide a proper detent over-ride, dump that plastic plate. Put out a portable base accessory.

I've heard a couple of people complain about the base casting being warped, and AFAIK Festool replaced any faulty ones. My lasers don't jiggle about but if yours do maybe it's subjected to vibration outside the intented tolerances? If so, isn't in better that they move out of alignment rather than break? Again, my base is fine and there is a good detent-override. Agree about the plastic plate, not brilliant but I lived with it for 18 months before replacing it with MDF. By a 'portable base accessory', do you mean a cart? If so, they just have.

Manuals in all cases

Agree that the manuals are rubbish, but you can download better ones from the Festool USA site. There are cultural reasons why Festool in germany don't provide more comprehensive ones - there are some interesting threads on here about that.

Prices in all cases

Don't know what you mean by that.

Standard Measurements in all cases. These mm are a pita and all it is is a sticker half the time. Its a good thing there aren;t 100 degrees in the metric system otherwise we wouldn;t buy festool anything.

Metric measurements are FAR, FAR easier to work with than imperial. Many US users have already switched & commented that once over the learning curve they find it better. All the countries of the world, with the exception of Burma, Liberia and the US have adopted metric in some form. It is the accepted system for 6.4 Billion people  [big grin]

>

 

[NVA_WW]

Off the top of my head, user manuals on par with Leigh jigs.  Those are the best manuals in the market.  I would expect the same for $700+ tool like the Domino.  I paid roughly the same for the FMT and that manual is phenomenal!

 

[Frank Pellow]

Off the top of my head, user manuals on par with Leigh jigs.  Those are the best manuals in the market.  I would expect the same for $700+ tool like the Domino.  I paid roughly the same for the FMT and that manual is phenomenal!

I agree the the Leigh manuals are great.  [thumbs up] They set the "gold standard" that other tool companies should be striving for.

 

[justinmcf]

the reason i ended up buying the leigh jigs was based on their manuals.

having used festools for the last ten years, i knew there was no way i would be buying the festool dovetail jig.

there is a steep learning curve with dovetail jigs and i wanted a great manual to help me through the process.

regards, justin.

 

[Frank Pellow]

the reason i ended up buying the leigh jigs was based on their manuals.

having used festools for the last ten years, i knew there was no way i would be buying the festool dovetail jig.

there is a steep learning curve with dovetail jigs and i wanted a great manual to help me through the process.

regards, justin.

I hope that Festool (head office) is listening.  This is proof that their refusal to produce top quality manuals is costing them sales.

And, where there is good documentation, it is making Festool sales.  I would never have made my first Festool purchase (an AFT 55 crcular saw and CT 22 vacuum) if it had not been for the documention and recommendations on John Lucas' web site.

 

[Inner10]

Uncomfortable handles on systainers...use the half-round tanos type.

Sortainer front latches are weak.

The structure of the sortainer is an open lattice, goods in the drawers have room to bounce around get wedged in the lattice while the drawer is closed.  If there was a smooth solid surface above the drawers we would not have this problem.  This is a major weakness with sortainers.

 

[jonny round boy]

OK, well re-reading my last post makes me sound like a Festool Fanboy! It's not that I don't think anything is wrong with any Festool product, there is always room for improvement.

Uncomfortable handles on systainers...use the half-round tanos type.

Sortainer front latches are weak.

The structure of the sortainer is an open lattice, goods in the drawers have room to bounce around get wedged in the lattice while the drawer is closed.  If there was a smooth solid surface above the drawers we would not have this problem.  This is a major weakness with sortainers.

I agree about inside the lids of the sortainers - I've had the small drawers in particular get jammed on quite a few occasions! I haven't had a problem with the sortainer front latches, though now you mention it they do seem a bit more flimsy than the main latches, but not so much that I think they're likely to fail.

I don't have any Tanos handles (I will do when the FOGtainers arrive, hopefully soon!) so can't compare, but I find the Festool handle to be fine. The underside is half-round - from the pictures, the only difference seems to be the ribs on the side? For me, my arm aches from the weight long before my fingers hurt from the shape of the handle. Maybe I'm just a weakling [tongue]

One area I'm not happy about with the systainers is this - both Festool and Tanos state in their literature that the systainers are strong enough to stand on, and have pictures of the same. I haven't dared try it, as I really don't think they'd survive intact. Maybe I'm just too darn fat [tongue]

 

[Inner10]

but not so much that I think they're likely to fail.

Load a few up and carry them up stairs, they can't handle a twist or being lifted in any other direction other then straight up.  Latch a few together, then lift them up on an angle as if you were loading them onto the tailgate of your truck; that is where they fail.

I don't have any Tanos handles (I will do when the FOGtainers arrive, hopefully soon!) so can't compare, but I find the Festool handle to be fine. The underside is half-round - from the pictures

You are in for a treat my friend.  The Festool ones are squared off and ribbed for your pleasure; they dig into your hand and become uncomfortable real quick.  The tanos one looks square but the edge on the underside is smooth and rounded.  It doesn't seem like a big difference but I would pay extra for it.

One area I'm not happy about with the systainers is this - both Festool and Tanos state in their literature that the systainers are strong enough to stand on

Agreed, maybe for a skinny European.  When I stand my fat 215 pound arse on top they buckle creak bend and cry.  I've done it a few times but they are not very solid (especially the bigger systainers).  I've never broken one but I've had hinge pins pop out a bit.  The systainers with the coloured boxes are nice and solid though.

 

[jonny round boy]

but not so much that I think they're likely to fail.

Load a few up and carry them up stairs, they can't handle a twist or being lifted in any other direction other then straight up.  Latch a few together, then lift them up on an angle as if you were loading them onto the tailgate of your truck; that is where they fail.

I have done that with mine, and they've never failed. To be fair though, the sortainer is always at the bottom of the stack, not part-way up.

I have a sys3 on top of a sort3, on a roll-board. That's my 'standard' toolbox, and goes everywhere. Usually with other systainers on top of that standard set-up. Because the sort is on the roll-board, it never gets placed on other systainers.

 

[score0matic]

I don't have any Tanos handles (I will do when the FOGtainers arrive, hopefully soon!) so can't compare, but I find the Festool handle to be fine. The underside is half-round - from the pictures, the only difference seems to be the ribs on the side? For me, my arm aches from the weight long before my fingers hurt from the shape of the handle. Maybe I'm just a weakling [tongue]

One area I'm not happy about with the systainers is this - both Festool and Tanos state in their literature that the systainers are strong enough to stand on, and have pictures of the same. I haven't dared try it, as I really don't think they'd survive intact. Maybe I'm just too darn fat [tongue]

Jonny

I find the Festool handle to be fine-- It is ....Until you use the Tanos  [thumbs up] then Not so much.  I have purched several tanos handles for heayer kits.

You can sort of stand on them