AlexThePalex
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Charimon said:
I was talking to my dealer the other day, and he said that he kept an extra batch of latches in store, because loads of people break them and have to come back for a new one.
What Do You Think Should Be Better.
- Thread starter Kevin D.
- Start date
I was talking to my dealer the other day, and he said that he kept an extra batch of latches in store, because loads of people break them and have to come back for a new one.
Kapex: I am a Kapex fan. I use it daily, but...
There should be a detent at 22.5 degrees for the BEVEL. I have asked many people, many times why this was not included. I have not received a clear answer.
I have an integrated fluorescent light on my Makita 1214 that lights the cut line nicely. An updated LED version for the Kapex is required, so it won't trigger the vac. I now have an additional light on my saw stand to be able to see my work. I think it should be part of the saw.
Switching from bevel to miter cuts and back, can be tedious because the sliding back stops need to be removed for bevel cuts, and replaced when cutting "nested" crown. A hinged, or swing away, back stop would greatly enhance efficiently.
I have become used to the miter table, but it is stiff, very stiff, and there are certainly better operating tables on the market. It seems to me that the table should be able to swing as easily as the superb bevel adjustment on the saw.
The dust extraction port, when connected to a hose, is at times an obstacle to the bevel release lever at the back of the saw. There should be a way to easily release the bevel lock without fumbling with other features of the saw. A bevel lock integrated into the bevel adjustment knob, up front, seems logical.
Zero clearance plates for the table. I make my own from 1/4" baltic birch, and change them out often. ( I switch from bevel to miter cuts often, thus "opening up" the zero clearance) Why not offer (2) plates with the saw? (1) for miters, (1) for bevels. BUT, attached with some kind of quick release system to change out the plates. The current system uses (3) screws per plate that attach it to the table. A bit tedious to switch out plates. I use double sided foam tape. ( obviously not good enough for the safety cops, but works for me).
Just a few thoughts, Dan
There should be a detent at 22.5 degrees for the BEVEL. I have asked many people, many times why this was not included. I have not received a clear answer.
I have an integrated fluorescent light on my Makita 1214 that lights the cut line nicely. An updated LED version for the Kapex is required, so it won't trigger the vac. I now have an additional light on my saw stand to be able to see my work. I think it should be part of the saw.
Switching from bevel to miter cuts and back, can be tedious because the sliding back stops need to be removed for bevel cuts, and replaced when cutting "nested" crown. A hinged, or swing away, back stop would greatly enhance efficiently.
I have become used to the miter table, but it is stiff, very stiff, and there are certainly better operating tables on the market. It seems to me that the table should be able to swing as easily as the superb bevel adjustment on the saw.
The dust extraction port, when connected to a hose, is at times an obstacle to the bevel release lever at the back of the saw. There should be a way to easily release the bevel lock without fumbling with other features of the saw. A bevel lock integrated into the bevel adjustment knob, up front, seems logical.
Zero clearance plates for the table. I make my own from 1/4" baltic birch, and change them out often. ( I switch from bevel to miter cuts often, thus "opening up" the zero clearance) Why not offer (2) plates with the saw? (1) for miters, (1) for bevels. BUT, attached with some kind of quick release system to change out the plates. The current system uses (3) screws per plate that attach it to the table. A bit tedious to switch out plates. I use double sided foam tape. ( obviously not good enough for the safety cops, but works for me).
Just a few thoughts, Dan
Dan,
Is switching out the zero clearance plates that often really that necessary? I know you do really high end work for very discriminating customers, but is this aspect your level of professionalism or a real requirement / realistic wish?
Peter
Is switching out the zero clearance plates that often really that necessary? I know you do really high end work for very discriminating customers, but is this aspect your level of professionalism or a real requirement / realistic wish?
Peter
WarnerConstCo.
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Peter Halle said:
I do the same as Dan. I think it has to do with installing pre-finished cabinet moldings that if you screw up too much, you are then out of material.
That would put you up that creek without a paddle.
None of the above.... Or some of the above. Darcy's right in that most of my stuff is prefinished, and the finish can be very brittle and flaky, and I look for any extra backing per cut I can find.
Another reason I change out my plates often is that I frequently use the kerf line in the plate to help me line up my cut.
Dan
Another reason I change out my plates often is that I frequently use the kerf line in the plate to help me line up my cut.
Dan
mastercabman
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- Apr 15, 2007
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- 1,854
Same here,really do not like the miter table. Reminds me of a "DeWalt" [embarassed]Dan Rush said:
I really like the ability to use my TS55 in the CMS, but the "turnaround" time is what puts me off. Biggest hassle is having to replace the riving knife AND having to lock it in place, so it looses the spring action. That incorparates having to insert a separate piece to "lock down" the spring action and if you haven't used it for a whlie , you end up wondering how it was supposed to fit anyway - to a point where one even regrets not having the original Festool (!) manual handy...... NOT their finest piece of engineering.
The fact that the riving knife/guard combo effectively stops the ability to make stopped cuts or dado's would warrant a different approach in my opinion. Like a simple way to stop the spring action in the riving knife and a separate guard for the CMS insert ?
A simple stop latch to keep the CMS sliding table from sliding would be a BIG plus when carrying it around a house or up a stairway - it's just too d*mned easy to mess something up with it....
I would like a better integration with the Protool range. As it is, there's really only the guiderails , the systainers, the plug-it and the Centrotec features that connects them. In my line of work, I frequently have to use tools that are geared towards the construction side of the craft, and although the Protool lineup is very nice, it just doesn't seem as balanced as the Festool lineup. Some tools are really neat ( like their cordless drill lineup ) while others seem just not as polished as I've grown accustomed to as a Festool user.
I may be splitting hairs here, but I wouldn't dream of owning a circular saw ( let alone a tracksaw ) other than a Festool ( and believe me, I've tried the DeWalt and the Makita ) but when it comes to tools like for instance a 10" grinder, I'd just as well buy another brand ( say a Metabo ) instead of a Protool, especially since the other brands come in systainers as well if you desire it.
The plug-it is GREAT ! Festool should extend it to their complete line-up sooner rather then later. For High amp tools like the OF2200 and the likes, a special version could be designed, keyed to make sure the high amp cord can be used with lower amp tools, but not vice-versa. One could have a high amp cord wrapped with the suction hose to the dustcollector, and never have to worry.
Regards,
Job
The fact that the riving knife/guard combo effectively stops the ability to make stopped cuts or dado's would warrant a different approach in my opinion. Like a simple way to stop the spring action in the riving knife and a separate guard for the CMS insert ?
A simple stop latch to keep the CMS sliding table from sliding would be a BIG plus when carrying it around a house or up a stairway - it's just too d*mned easy to mess something up with it....
I would like a better integration with the Protool range. As it is, there's really only the guiderails , the systainers, the plug-it and the Centrotec features that connects them. In my line of work, I frequently have to use tools that are geared towards the construction side of the craft, and although the Protool lineup is very nice, it just doesn't seem as balanced as the Festool lineup. Some tools are really neat ( like their cordless drill lineup ) while others seem just not as polished as I've grown accustomed to as a Festool user.
I may be splitting hairs here, but I wouldn't dream of owning a circular saw ( let alone a tracksaw ) other than a Festool ( and believe me, I've tried the DeWalt and the Makita ) but when it comes to tools like for instance a 10" grinder, I'd just as well buy another brand ( say a Metabo ) instead of a Protool, especially since the other brands come in systainers as well if you desire it.
The plug-it is GREAT ! Festool should extend it to their complete line-up sooner rather then later. For High amp tools like the OF2200 and the likes, a special version could be designed, keyed to make sure the high amp cord can be used with lower amp tools, but not vice-versa. One could have a high amp cord wrapped with the suction hose to the dustcollector, and never have to worry.
Regards,
Job
John Langevin
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- Joined
- Jan 23, 2007
- Messages
- 246
Simply put, the MFT's are too wobbly. Festool makes an accessory support brace but I think a $500 bench shouldn't wobble when purchased. A B&D Workmate costs under $100 and it doesn't wobble, quit making excuses FESTOOL.
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