What Do You Use To Mark Wood?

[darita]

For the finish measurements, of course I use a fine pencil, however for breaking down sheets and boards, I've been using white chalk, just for gross markings.  Problem is, especially on the ply, the chalk is super tuff to get out with sandpaper.  When you think you've sanded it out, you really haven't and sometimes it shows up during finishing.
So, what can I use for marking while I'm just breaking down?

 

[Birdhunter]

I use either a pencil mark or a strip of blue tape. Usually alcohol removes pencil marks. I use only alcohol with no oils (don’t use rubbing alcohol). I usually don’t mark the entire cut line only the beginning and end marks. If I want to mark the whole cut line, I apply blue tape and draw the line on it.

 

[ChuckM]

Using mostly hardwood for my projects. I mark stock with the pica dry pencils, if I want the marks to be seen easily (cabinet triangle markings, for instance)http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=71121&cat=1,42935,42936,43509,71121

They, too, are not so easy to remove with alcohol or eraser; planing or sanding (100x or so) is usually required.

For line marking, pencils (0.3mm up to 0.7mm) are used.

If pencil traces are to be avoided, I use masking tape and pencils.

 

[darita]

K...thanks.  I recently made a large box out of thin ply.  I used chalk marks to keep the orientation of the panels, prior to box jointing all the corners.  That's where I had the issues.

 

[lwoirhaye]

Usually a standard pencil.  I'll use a lumber crayon, chalk or a carpenters pencil when marking rough boards for crosscutting prior to final milling.  I try to keep a yellow or white pencil around for finer marking on darker woods. 

 

[Birdhunter]

I use annotated blue tape to indicate parts that are supposed to go together. It’s just too easy to get mixed up. I normally use a Sharpie marker on the tape. When the parts are glued up, I peel off the tape.

 

[rmhinden]

I mostly use Zebra DelGuard 0.5mm Lead Mechanical Pencils.  It has an mechanism that makes it harder to break the lead.  See:   I think they are pretty cool and made in Japan.

I get them on Amazon, about $6. See:  http://a.co/d/ft3UjmD  They come in different colors.

They work well with the Incra rulers.

 

[Naildrivingman]

I mostly use Zebra DelGuard 0.5mm Lead Mechanical Pencils.  It has an mechanism that makes it harder to break the lead.  See:   I think they are pretty cool and made in Japan.

I get them on Amazon, about $6. See:  http://a.co/d/ft3UjmD  They come in different colors.

They work well with the Incra rulers.

[member=66813]rmhinden[/member] How does the metal tip hold up to being dropped?  I’ve used Alvin 0.7 mm Draftmatics for many years, but the tips are pretty delicate.

 

[rmhinden]

[member=66813]rmhinden[/member] How does the metal tip hold up to being dropped?  I’ve used Alvin 0.7 mm Draftmatics for many years, but the tips are pretty delicate.

I haven't broken any.  I occasional misplace them.  I lost one recently when I was using my CT22 to clean up shavings on my workbench and sucked up the pencil :-(  I decided I didn't want to take the bag apart to find it.

 

[Ajax]

Blood

 

[peter halle]

In looking at the Zebra pencil link posted above, for those who bleed green: https://www.amazon.com/Zebra-Mechanical-Pencil-Guard-P-MA85-LG/dp/B00NN3YZWA/ref=pd_sim_229_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00NN3YZWA&pd_rd_r=477fd778-bd94-11e8-b3a9-1f5f95d9d540&pd_rd_w=ESaEl&pd_rd_wg=2Cmcs&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=18bb0b78-4200-49b9-ac91-f141d61a1780&pf_rd_r=M88GZ94G5K8MZGM298BY&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=M88GZ94G5K8MZGM298BY

It ships from Japan so instant gratification might not be enjoyed.

Peter

 

[zapdafish]

with rough lumber chalk, jointer takes care of marks.  with ply a pencil and i usually just mark an inch at the start and inch at the end of the cut to align the track.

 

[Michael Kellough]

For smooth wood I like the Pentel Graph Gear.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GAU2RU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you remember to squeeze the pocket clip when you put it down you’ll never damage the tip since the pocket clip releases the lock that keeps the pencil point projected. The entire mechanism then withdraws into the barrel like a turtle’s head.

 

[rst]

I'm with Micheal K, I keep 5 & 7mm in my carpenter pants/shorts pocket.  The 5mm works great with my new Woodpeckers Delvo squires as the retractable barrel fits perfectly into the holes.  I'm not wild about the pencil Woodpeckers supplied with the set but the Pentals work great.

 

[GoingMyWay]

I bought a 12ct box of .7mm Paper Mate SharpWriter mechanical pencils last November for $3.32.  I still have a few. They've worked well for me.

One downside to them is that they're not refillable.  I keep a bunch spread around because I'm always misplacing my pencil. 

 

[Birdhunter]

I have several rOtring pencils around. All metal design with 0.5mm lead. They are perfect for Woodworking and Sudoko.

 

[Longhair]

I prefer a pen for sudoko

 

[Birdhunter]

I pencil in the possible numbers in each square and erase them as they are eliminated. Can’t do that with a pen

 

[Sparktrician]

I use annotated blue tape to indicate parts that are supposed to go together. It’s just too easy to get mixed up. I normally use a Sharpie marker on the tape. When the parts are glued up, I peel off the tape.

Same here.  I go so far as to mark inside, outside, front, back, top, bottom, plus any assembly notes or comments.  Once everything is out of glue-up, I peel off the tape and sand lightly. 

 

[rljatl]

I use annotated blue tape to indicate parts that are supposed to go together. It’s just too easy to get mixed up. I normally use a Sharpie marker on the tape. When the parts are glued up, I peel off the tape.

Same here.  I go so far as to mark inside, outside, front, back, top, bottom, plus any assembly notes or comments.  Once everything is out of glue-up, I peel off the tape and sand lightly.

Doesnt the Sharpie soak through the tape and mark the wood?

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