What dogs/accessories for my MFT bench?

AndrewG

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Nov 1, 2012
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160
Hi all,

I’m building a MFT workbench using the parf guide system (mk 1). I’m looking at getting the benchdogs uk fence system -https://benchdogs.co.uk/collections/fence-systems/products/1200mm-fence-system-mk2
I like the idea of repeat cuts with a scale.

As far as dogs and accessories go, I’m looking at ordering from Axminster and getting the following.

Dog rail clips
2 x super parf dogs
3 pairs (6) 12mm guide rail pup (is that enough?)
Chamfer tool
2 x assembly squares
Split stop collar

I’ve never used this system before so this is new to me, so I was wondering if anyone could recommend anything else that I should consider? Perhaps something that’s made your experience using the system better? I’ve read the split stop collar is a good upgrade so I’ve added that.

I've got three festool rail clamps already which I think should be enough. I was looking at the UJK wedges... any thoughts?

Thanks for your assistance.
 
I would skip the chamfer tool.  Bought one, used it for exactly ONE hole before switching to a chamfer bit in the router.  I already look like Popeye, no need to make it worse.

I find planing stops to be really useful, there's a "Hongdui" on Banggood that's more than adequate for the money.

Also recommend deciding whether you're going to finish the MDF before you get too busy.  I'm going to try some Osmo and see how it goes.  I've got stain and glue spots on mine already that won't be removeable.  A coat of finish might have helped.

 
Thanks for the reply. Good call on finishing the MFT, I'll be doing that prior to drilling out the holes.
 
That is very good advice. I wish I had thought about that before drilling 325 holes in my 4' x 8' top.
 
I would put thought into where you need your holes. I made a top and realized I didn't need all the holes and don't use all the holes. On the next top I will be much more selective in where I put them. I have considered putting a row around the perimeter and running with that to see how it goes.
 
I use 3mm wooden dowels to plug holes I don’t need. That way I can lay out the whole top and only drill the 20mm holes I want.
 
I drilled all of the holes because I use them with dogs and clamping elements all the time. My other table only has a couple of rows of holes because it is really just a cutting station for the tracksaw.
 
I made three MFT style tables.  I drilled out the holes using a piece of pegboard as a template.

I screwed the pegboard to the MDF and using a Vix bit I drilled the holes I wanted to drill for the top.

I then removed the pegboard and using drill a bushing mounted on a piece of plywood I drilled out all the holes.

On each tabletop I have one hole that is not properly aligned.  I don't know how that occurred or if perhaps I should have checked the pegboard for alignment prior to drilling.  In any case I have taken a magic marker and indicated the offending hole. 

Other than that, the pegboard option worked perfectly.  I went with 3/4" holes and I used 4" on center.  I make my own dogs from 3/4" oak dowels.  It seems OK to me.

 
Packard said:
I made three MFT style tables.  I drilled out the holes using a piece of pegboard as a template.

I screwed the pegboard to the MDF and using a Vix bit I drilled the holes I wanted to drill for the top.

I then removed the pegboard and using drill a bushing mounted on a piece of plywood I drilled out all the holes.

On each tabletop I have one hole that is not properly aligned.  I don't know how that occurred or if perhaps I should have checked the pegboard for alignment prior to drilling.  In any case I have taken a magic marker and indicated the offending hole. 

Other than that, the pegboard option worked perfectly.  I went with 3/4" holes and I used 4" on center.  I make my own dogs from 3/4" oak dowels.  It seems OK to me.

How did you register the drill bushing to the Vix bit pilot hole?
 
I used a screw tip auger bit.  It did a good job of registering to the pilot holes that the Vix bit made.  As I said, I don't know where the error came from. The pegboard was screwed to the top and could not move around.  Maybe one of the peg holes was off (it does not seem likely).  Probably human error.  I really thought this would work perfectly, but I don't know if it was my error or the system was at fault. I have not heard of anyone else using this method.  Maybe someone else would have better results. 

augerbit-inch312356.jpg
 
Thanks for the info. Sounds like it worked very well and I don’t think I’ve read about this combination to techniques. Have to try to keep it in mind.
 
I do use the holes with dogs to square up things during assembly.  That is why I marked the offending holes so I know not to use them for that purpose.  One out of alignment for each tabletop.  (I used a straight edge to check alignment.)

Drilling the holes was tedious work though. If I had to do over, I would have used a bradpoint drill instead.  I backed up the MDF so that the holes would be clean on both sides.  The screw point required I reverse the drill each time I removed it from the stock.

A bradpoint drill would not do that, though a forstner bit also has a brad point and would self-center too but would not work well with the bushing.  I don't know which will do better.  I used an "Wood owl" bit and it held up for the three table tops without requiring sharpening.  I don't know how abrasive MDF is though.

I drilled a 1" hole in a 6" x 6" x 3/4" piece of plywood to accept the bushing.  I ended up using a bit of paper to shim the bushing tightly in the plywood.

I do wish someone would try this, just to find out if it was the method or me that was at fault.  But check the pegboard before using it. 

I started with an oversize piece of MDF and trimmed off the small drilled holes I used to attach the pegboard.  I considered using clamps but this seemed more secure.
https://www.amazon.com/WoodOwl-0970...009OAJRQ/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=woodowl+3%2F4%22+drill+bit&qid=1620411249&sr=8-2
https://www.amazon.com/I-D-Drill-St...pd_rd_i=B002RLKZ4Q&psc=1&ref_=pd_bap_d_rp_1_t

 
AndrewG said:
Hi all,

I’m building a MFT workbench using the parf guide system (mk 1). I’m looking at getting the benchdogs uk fence system -https://benchdogs.co.uk/collections/fence-systems/products/1200mm-fence-system-mk2
I like the idea of repeat cuts with a scale.

As far as dogs and accessories go, I’m looking at ordering from Axminster and getting the following.

Dog rail clips
2 x super parf dogs
3 pairs (6) 12mm guide rail pup (is that enough?)
Chamfer tool
2 x assembly squares
Split stop collar

I’ve never used this system before so this is new to me, so I was wondering if anyone could recommend anything else that I should consider? Perhaps something that’s made your experience using the system better? I’ve read the split stop collar is a good upgrade so I’ve added that.

I've got three festool rail clamps already which I think should be enough. I was looking at the UJK wedges... any thoughts?

Thanks for your assistance.
I would include the UJK PARF ALUMINIUM REVISION DOGS (3) 107359. These can be put in a 20mm dog hole so that you can have a 3mm reference hole after the fact. I used them while drilling my top. Just need to chamfer the hole first of course.
 
AndrewG said:
Hi all,

I’m building a MFT workbench using the parf guide system (mk 1). I’m looking at getting the benchdogs uk fence system -https://benchdogs.co.uk/collections/fence-systems/products/1200mm-fence-system-mk2
I like the idea of repeat cuts with a scale.

As far as dogs and accessories go, I’m looking at ordering from Axminster and getting the following.

Dog rail clips
2 x super parf dogs
3 pairs (6) 12mm guide rail pup (is that enough?)
Chamfer tool
2 x assembly squares
Split stop collar

I’ve never used this system before so this is new to me, so I was wondering if anyone could recommend anything else that I should consider? Perhaps something that’s made your experience using the system better? I’ve read the split stop collar is a good upgrade so I’ve added that.

I've got three festool rail clamps already which I think should be enough. I was looking at the UJK wedges... any thoughts?

Thanks for your assistance.
Here is Peters video featuring the Revision Dogs
 
Those revision dogs are great, if you ever need to add a dog to a jig or stationary tool.  Easy to tap (aluminum) for whatever bolt size you need.
 
Bertotti said:

Ditto - I use these more than any other accessory.  Next are the Festool quick clamps.  I use my table more for holding work than cutting.
 
HarveyWildes said:
Bertotti said:

Ditto - I use these more than any other accessory.  Next are the Festool quick clamps.  I use my table more for holding work than cutting.

Same here, it has made me believe I want to build a dedicated glue-up panel designed to hold and clamp panels or multiple glue-ups at the same time.
 
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