What drill bits do you use?

[wow]

Two points, PreferrablyWood:

1. AFAIK, the bit set you referenced is NAINA.  [mad]

I'll need specificalls on which bit set you mean?

There are NO attic lid bit sets available in NA. Pick whichever one you want...

 

[wow]

I use Norseman bits for steel and general work. I need to decide on a set of bits for wood.

At work I drill a lot of steel and so far Norseman molybdenum bits are my favorite. I buy them from Fastenal and they are durable yet they don't shatter like cobalt bits. I just wish Fastenal would sell the ones with the flats ground on the shanks because sometimes I spin them in my drill (even if I reef on the chuck to make it super-tight).

I use the Super Magnum bits with the 3 flats. In fact, I used them tonight to drill starter holes and all the way up to 1/2", which was the largest I had. I needed a bigger bit, so ran out to Home Despot and bought the best 5/8" bit they had, which was a Milwaukee.

What a difference - and I don't mean that in a good way for Wilwaukee! Unlike the Super Magnums, which cut steel like butter, the Milwaukee bit barely managed to drill 8 holes in 3/16" mild steel. And that's only going from an already existing 1/2" hole. It will be going back for credit and I'll order a Norseman replacement.

Actually, I'll probably order a small set...

It seems from your description that you drilled a 1/2 inch hole and then wanted to enlarge it with a 5/8 drill? That is not a good idea and if that is what you did I am not surprised the drill did not hold up. You should drill a pilot hole at maybe 1/8 inch and then go to the 5/8. The pilot hole should be about the size of the final drill's web thickness but not larger. This way the final drill has a chance to create a full diameter  before it breaks thru. That said, a 5/8 drill in 3/16 material is hard to do handheld. It is more difficult than in thicker material.

There is no reason why a decent bit can't be used in the manner I used it. I already had 1/2" holes drilled and needed to go larger. In this case, an 1/8" pilot hole was not an option.

 

[TelcoRandy]

And to keep your drill bits in sharp order may I

suggest a Tormek drill bit sharpening system?
[attachimg=1]

I would have to assume that the drill bit in the picture wouldn't drill anymore since the highest point on the drill isn't the cutting edge.

It does look like the primary land is higher at the back but i suspect it is optical illusion.

You may be right, it might just appear to look that way. However, even if it isn't higher at the back I would then bet that it's ground flat at the cutting edge and would thus produce more heat when drilling because of a larger surface area generating more friction against the material it's cutting into.

I watched an old machinist explain how twist drills work on youtube and apparently even the flutes are designed to have an outer edge ("the land") that sticks out further than the rest of the flute. This is meant to reduce friction, he also talks about how the tip should be beveled 10-12 degrees and shouldn't be ground flat.
See 7:30 -

I suspect this Tormek sharpening system probably doesn't work as well as advertised.

 

[cgmojoco]

Lee valley carbide tipped:http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=42352&cat=1,180,42240

 

[PreferrablyWood]

Two points, PreferrablyWood:

1. AFAIK, the bit set you referenced is NAINA.  [mad]

I'll need specificalls on which bit set you mean?

There are NO attic lid bit sets available in NA. Pick whichever one you want...

This is definitely a strange state of affairs, I guess they are just waiting for the PDC drills to be released in N.America.. I really like the attic sets, very convenient..

 

[andvari]

Norseman and Colt are my favorites. I own a few others that I use for things like drilling in drywall.

Mostly I should toss those. They are taking up too much space in my tool box.

 

[SittingElf]

+1 on the Festool bits in their Attic-compatible cases. 

I got the wood, metal, and the SDS sets before leaving Germany. Hopefully we get them in the NA before long.  Expensive, but really, REALLY nice bits!

Cheers,

Frank

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

I buy used US made ones.  I sharpen as needed.

 

[Shawn]

I don't get it? Why has no-one said Dormer for wood and steel and Famag forster bits for wood? I would also consider woodowl overdrive bits topppppp notch!!

 

[SittingElf]

I don't get it? Why has no-one said Dormer for wood and steel and Famag forster bits for wood? I would also consider woodowl overdrive bits topppppp notch!!

Yup!  Famag Bormax Forstner bits....Awesome!  Also have a set of Festool's Imperial Forstners.

I got the Famags during a special set sale in Germany. 8 bit set and a 5 liter keg of beer!  Now, why don't they have sales like THAT in the USA?? [tongue]

[attachimg=1][attachimg=2]

Cheers,
Frank

 

[rvieceli]

Frank

Have you used the Famag's yet?  I've been looking at those. Have you tried them free hand?

Thanks

 

[SittingElf]

Frank

Have you used the Famag's yet?  I've been looking at those. Have you tried them free hand?

Thanks

I have used them, but not freehand. They cut fast and stay cool on my drill press. (I don't trust my aim freehand! [crying])

Cheers,

Frank

 

[Stone Message]

These: http://www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/page.aspx?p=42247&cat=1,180,42240

American-made Precision twist drills reshaped into brad-points by LV.

I have bought a set of these from Lee Valley and they are excellent.

Peter