What is the best "Festool" way to create a dado 5" off edge in 3/4 ply

Grasshopper

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So I am getting ready to cut some dados in 3/4" plywood, which are spaced 5" from the bottom of my panel and wanted to see what the best way to do this.

I was hoping to do this on my CMS-VL table, but the fence doesn't set back this far (I think around 3 1/2" is as far as the fence sits back, if I use the back screws give or take…unless I am missing something).  Alternatively, I could remove the fence from my CMS router table and clamp some straight stock 5" from the cutter (but this would seem pretty hokey IMHO).

I could also unmount my OF1400 from the router table (with an out feed for support of course), and use the guide rail.

For some reason, I thought this would be as easy task on the router table.

Am I missing something?

See drawing below for what I am cutting (3/8" deep, and "nominal 3/4" high):

[attachimg=1]
 

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Thanks for the reply.  It's where I will probably end up.  I suppose I was just surprised there wasn't an easy way to do this on the router table.

If I am missing something…I'd love to know.

Walk On Wood said:
My first thought would be 1400 in hand with edge guide or guide rail
 
Use the guide rail. The router on the rail will follow any slight bends in the plywood and give you a more consistent depth of cut than you would get on the router table.
 
Great point.  I'm setting up the rail now.

Thanks for the feedback!

gippy said:
Use the guide rail. The router on the rail will follow any slight bends in the plywood and give you a more consistent depth of cut than you would get on the router table.
 
Remove the stock CMS fence, use the angle head and cross cut fence (the MFT stuff works also). The miter head locks to the table v groove and expands the work surface to the back edge of the CMS table. Dust extraction is not compromised because you're using the router port. I also collect dust with a crevice tool hooked to the y hose assembly. I've used multiple angle heads or the fence support to keep the fence stable.

Tom
 
I was hoping there was a way the CMS could be used.  Thanks for the response.

Any chance you have a picture handy with the setup you describe?

tjbnwi said:
Remove the stock CMS fence, use the angle head and cross cut fence (the MFT stuff works also). The miter head locks to the table v groove and expands the work surface to the back edge of the CMS table. Dust extraction is not compromised because you're using the router port. I also collect dust with a crevice tool hooked to the y hose assembly. I've used multiple angle heads or the fence support to keep the fence stable.

Tom
 
If you have the parallel guides - more commonly used with the track saws - you could easily do this with the track and one of the routers.

Peter
 
Generally, it's not so easy to manage large pieces on a router table. I've found that using the router hand-held is much better and probably safer. Before I owned a Festool router, guide rail, and guide stops I would have just clamped a straight piece of wood or other guide to the wood the right distance from the edges; a little more guess work but the same concept. Good choice to go hand-held.
 
I would use the my MFT/3 and OF1400 for the dado.  For a piece 24 inches wide I would remove the Festool fence and use a couple of Parf Dogs to support the work piece at the back of the table.  Then all you need to do is line up the router on the rail and have at it.  I have done lots of dados on the MFT/3 since I do not have a router table.  Parallel guides are also a valid option. 
 
I'd route the 4 x 8 sheet first, then rip in half

and there's your left and right partition. Done

and use this from Micro Fence:
[attachimg=1]
 

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Grasshopper said:
I was hoping there was a way the CMS could be used.  Thanks for the response.

Any chance you have a picture handy with the setup you describe?

tjbnwi said:
Remove the stock CMS fence, use the angle head and cross cut fence (the MFT stuff works also). The miter head locks to the table v groove and expands the work surface to the back edge of the CMS table. Dust extraction is not compromised because you're using the router port. I also collect dust with a crevice tool hooked to the y hose assembly. I've used multiple angle heads or the fence support to keep the fence stable.

Tom

I'll get some pictures when I get home on Monday or Tuesday.

In your situation it is easier to move the tool across the work than the work across the tool. As others haver stated use an MFT and the rail, or the guide rail set with jigs and the guide rail adapter.

Remember there are bit center locating marks on the base of the router to ease layout.

Tom
 
You should really think about taking the tool to the work, doing the other way around without the proper set up and training can be dangerous. Read the other post on how to do this and check out some videos. B
 
Jim Kirkpatrick said:
The late great John Lucas has a fantastic tip for using playing cards with an MFT and 1400 router.  I've used it a thousand times, works great!

http://legacy.woodshopdemos.com/fes-dado-1.htm
Playing cards are a woodworker's friend.  I use them on just about every project.  Great shims for fitting drawers with equal gaps from the carcass, for sneaking up on cuts, setting small reveals and lips.  Must be a million uses.  I keep them right next to the setup blocks and other layout tools.
 
Here you go Grasshopper. Takes me a while, but I get to everything.......eventually.

Tom
 

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Tom,

Thanks for posting that!!! That totally makes sense and would work.  I have the CMS VL, but I can still run the fence on the skinny side of the CMS and use the MFT as an outfeed support.  I may have to do it this way next time as it would seem easier to run a couple of passes with the bit vs. hogging out the entire dado with one pass on a guide rail.  Very repeatable too.

tjbnwi said:
Here you go Grasshopper. Takes me a while, but I get to everything.......eventually.

Tom
 
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