What is your "Festool" Way to cut outlet boxes into cabinet sides?

[Grasshopper]

I am finished building my kitchen island, and I have left to run the electrical and mount it to the floor.

Normally, I'd just trace the electrical box with a pencil and run a couple 1/4" holes into opposite corners using my drill.  Then I'd trace the line with my carvex jigsaw and call it good.

Before going that route, I thought I'd pose the question to the FOG and see what y'all would do, or if there was a better method to accomplish this.  (I have the MFS, and considered using it, but I'd have to tip the 48" wide cabinet on its side.)

The other concern is that I will have to either saw or route through a panel that is attached to the side of my 3/4" plywood box.  As you can see in the pictures below, the attached panel is a flat panel door mounted to the side of my box.  The inset flat panel portion is where the electrical box will be, but there will be an approximate gap of 1/8" from the inside of this panel to the cabinet (if that makes sense).

I don't think the MFS would work well also, because the rail and stile would raise up the MFS from the work surface leaving room for error.

….So…is the Carvex the way to go (punching through the likely 1/8" thick center panel and the 3/4" plywood box below it, or would the panel get pretty chipped up?

What would the FOG do?

See the panel mounted on the island (outlet will run horizontal centered in the panel approx 2-3" down from the top):
[attachimg=1]

See inside one of the panels to note the center panel is inset around 1/8" eliminating any zero clearance possibilities from the panel to the 3/4" ply):
[attachimg=2]

 

[tjbnwi]

I've done, router with MFS, Vecturo, Carvex. Depends on the situation.

Use a Sillite;

http://www.batteryjunction.com/sillites-self-rcbt.html

Tom

 

[Grasshopper]

Thanks Tom. I'll have to check out the sillites. They look pretty slick.

I'm leaning towards the carvex on this one. Any advice for how to avoid splinters since I am "gang cutting" the center panel and 3/4" ply at the same time (with about 1/8" space between the panel and island box)?

I've done, router with MFS, Vecturo, Carvex. Depends on the situation.

Use a Sillite;

http://www.batteryjunction.com/sillites-self-rcbt.html

Tom

 

[Stone Message]

Provided your outlet sockets have an escutcheon then the quickest way is to drill a hole at each of the 4 corners and use a Carvex. You can also use the Vecturo or a router with a template.

Peter

 

[Grasshopper]

Thank you Peter!

I even learned a new word today, thanks to you  ;D

Provided your outlet sockets have an escutcheon then the quickest way is to drill a hole at each of the 4 corners and use a Carvex. You can also use the Vecturo or a router with a template.

Peter

 

[peter halle]

Vectuto baby, Vecturo!

Peter

 

[tjbnwi]

Thank you Peter!

I even learned a new word today, thanks to you  ;D

Provided your outlet sockets have an escutcheon then the quickest way is to drill a hole at each of the 4 corners and use a Carvex. You can also use the Vecturo or a router with a template.

Peter

On this side of the pond it's called a cover.

Vecturo or Carvex with a fine steel cutting blade.

Tom

 

[mastercabman]

Masking tape and jigsaw

 

[Linbro]

Put some 1/8 packing between the back of the door panel and the ply - if you can take the panel off?

 

[ccmviking]

I draw it out and cut it with this.  Makita .  I had to get an 1/8" collet for it and I use the rotozip sabercut bits RotoZip  Using this cordless die grinder over a typical rotozip or other rotary tool such as this DeWalt DeWalt gives you much better control and access to where you need to cut.  People suggesting jigsaw after seeing that panel cabinet side?  There are soooo many places that you need to cut out with pretty good accuracy that a JigSaw simply wont fit, turn, or sit against what's being cut.  A jigsaw would make a torn out mess out of a lot of cut outs like this. 

Chris...

 

[Jason Kehl]

Chris;

How well do the Sabrecut bits handle 3/4" thick solid wood, plywood and particle board without oveheating and burning or simply breaking? I have occasions where I like the idea of using a rotary tool but have always assumed it wouldn't be practical due to the above reasons as well as my assumption that it would be a slow process.

I've thought about using an OF1010 with a 1/4" spiral bit, guide bushing and templates to try and speed the prodess along as well as maintain consitent accuracy. We install a good deal of pine and have to do many repetitive cutouts an its always nice to increase productivity and decrease errors.

Any feed back from experience would be appreciated.

j

 

[ccmviking]

Chris;

How well do the Sabrecut bits handle 3/4" thick solid wood, plywood and particle board without oveheating and burning or simply breaking? I have occasions where I like the idea of using a rotary tool but have always assumed it wouldn't be practical due to the above reasons as well as my assumption that it would be a slow process.

I've thought about using an OF1010 with a 1/4" spiral bit, guide bushing and templates to try and speed the prodess along as well as maintain consitent accuracy. We install a good deal of pine and have to do many repetitive cutouts an its always nice to increase productivity and decrease errors.

Any feed back from experience would be appreciated.

j

You will occasionally break a bit, but it's not often and most of the time it's just from using a dull bit and pushing too hard.  You can probably get an outlet opening cut out quicker with this method than even getting a template clamped, etc.  I can't even picture how you would do that in most cases.  In the side of the cabinet (Island, Penninsula, or where a run ends and there's a pocket door behind it) I use these two types of boxes.  They are very shallow and don't interfere with the cabinet workings on framed cabinetry.  9 out of 10 times it will be a drawer base and these boxes will not protrude and interfere with the drawer at all.  plastic  metal

I'll see if I can get time to make a video today of me using the tool to cut out a piece of 3/4" ply scrap or something.

btw...  I tried 1/4" bits in this tool and I'm by no means a weakling, but I could not control it, scary at times. 

Picture

Chris... 

 

[Grasshopper]

Thanks for all your help.  I was planning on hammering this out last night and to my shock and dismay, the "solid maple" doors I had ordered were maple veneer with an MDF core.  A far cry from what I had ordered.

I would have actually been OK with maple plywood in the center panels, but not MDF.

I will need to get all my panels replaced (as well as all the new cabinet doors that were all waiting to be installed.

 

[Jason Kehl]

Thanks Chris, I'll pick up a bit and give it a try.

 

[Grasshopper]

Chris,

I'd love to see a video of you cutting some 3/4" scrap this way if you have the time.

Chris;

How well do the Sabrecut bits handle 3/4" thick solid wood, plywood and particle board without oveheating and burning or simply breaking? I have occasions where I like the idea of using a rotary tool but have always assumed it wouldn't be practical due to the above reasons as well as my assumption that it would be a slow process.

I've thought about using an OF1010 with a 1/4" spiral bit, guide bushing and templates to try and speed the prodess along as well as maintain consitent accuracy. We install a good deal of pine and have to do many repetitive cutouts an its always nice to increase productivity and decrease errors.

Any feed back from experience would be appreciated.

j

You will occasionally break a bit, but it's not often and most of the time it's just from using a dull bit and pushing too hard.  You can probably get an outlet opening cut out quicker with this method than even getting a template clamped, etc.  I can't even picture how you would do that in most cases.  In the side of the cabinet (Island, Penninsula, or where a run ends and there's a pocket door behind it) I use these two types of boxes.  They are very shallow and don't interfere with the cabinet workings on framed cabinetry.  9 out of 10 times it will be a drawer base and these boxes will not protrude and interfere with the drawer at all.  plastic  metal

I'll see if I can get time to make a video today of me using the tool to cut out a piece of 3/4" ply scrap or something.

btw...  I tried 1/4" bits in this tool and I'm by no means a weakling, but I could not control it, scary at times. 

Picture

Chris...