What is your preferred countersink bit

[Mario Turcot]

I'm wondering which countersink bit and shank types you guys are using.

On a drill press:

Handfree drill:

I currently use the

on the drill press and

handfree drill both from LV. I found both could give me a better result.

I am considering the Amana Tool

Thank you for sharing.

 

[six-point socket II]

Hi!

All Centrotec from Festool.
https://www.festool.com/accessory/492520---qls-d-2--8-ce
https://www.festool.com/accessory/492521---qls-d-5-15-ce

And with drill bit
https://www.festool.com/accessory/492523---bsta-hs-d-3,5-ce

Kind regards,
Oliver

 

[rst]

I use the weldon style as I work with aluminum and plastic regularly, and the Snappy's for wood.

 

[grobkuschelig]

I use the same as Oliver, the Festool ones with Centrotec.

They are really sharp and I have no complaints.

 

[sancho57]

I use the festool countersink bit and a set of tapered bits with a plug cutter.

I forget who made mind right now (getting senile I guess).

At the time they were the only manufacturers of tapered bits but now there are many manufacturers. Heres example
https://www.amazon.com/Snappy-Brand...=UTF8&qid=1543942498&sr=8-21&keywords=tapered+drill+bits

 

[Cheese]

I really like these KEO Zero Flute countersinks as they're made from cobalt rather than HSS. They work well in wood, aluminum and plastic. No Centrotec shafts but Meh. [smile]

The KEO bits also last a lot longer than the Festool version, if you also have to use them ocasionally on aluminum. I buggered up a Festool version after deburring about 15 aluminum plates. The KEO are also cheaper than Festool.

The 8mm Festool version is $44.
The 5/16" KEO version is $17.
https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/45117488

[attachimg=1]

 

[wakyct]

I use these from Rockler,https://www.rockler.com/8-pro-tapered-countersink-bit, the best I've found locally. I'd like to compare them to the Centrotec though.

 

[Mario Turcot]

That make 2 for Festool and 2 for Snappy.

[member=44099]Cheese[/member] those Keo bits look really sexy  [wink] How are they performing on hard wood, any burnt?

Keep feeding me people  [big grin]

 

[Cheese]

[member=44099]Cheese[/member] those Keo bits look really sexy  [wink] How are they performing on hard wood, any burnt?

No Mario, because they're manufactured from cobalt, they can also be used gingerly on steel. They work especially well on hard maple. Just like a plane they remove very thin shavings.  [smile]  There are also 2 larger sizes available a 1" & a 1 1/4" diameter.

The other advantage is that they're available in 4 different angles, 60º, 82º, 90º and 100º if the need arrises.

 

[RKA]

I have to ask a stupid question (well, more than one).  Is there a need to have an array of sizes or can you just get a small and large to cover the bases? These aren't meant to counterbore, just countersink, right?  Also, how do you sharpen these?

 

[Jmacpherson]

[member=66597]Mario Turcot[/member], the bits you mention from LV and from Amana look similar to the ones I have from Dimar, even use the same descriptions and images?http://www.dimartooling.com/counter-sinking-plug-maker

Personally I prefer the bit with the metal depth stop because it clears the debris away from the hole better vs the countersink with the plastic depth stop. The downside to the metal stop is I find it leaves a mark regardless but that is more down to technique or lack thereof on my part. The plastic won't leave marks but doesn't have the lifespan of the metal stop and gets clogged up quickly.

Never used centrotec versions but would reckon they are better. I'm basing this on how my centrotec brad point bits perform, nothing comes close.
However a Festool countersink would cost me 3x the price of the Dimar version so I settled for less.

 

[Cheese]

I have to ask a stupid question (well, more than one).  Is there a need to have an array of sizes or can you just get a small and large to cover the bases? These aren't meant to counterbore, just countersink, right?  Also, how do you sharpen these?

As a general rule of thumb, if the counter sink is rated at 1/2” diameter, this style will have a useful range from 1/4-1/2”. Same with the other sizes. A 3/8” diameter will be useful for 3/16-3/8”.

So taking the 1/2” counter sink, it can be used to counter sink #4 (.255 dia) through #10 (.411 dia) flat head screws.

These are meant to countersink, however I’ve counterbored holes, to act as a rain trough, in 60 cast aluminum outdoor lights and it’s still working fine. I’ve not yet sharpened it.

Here’s a photo after 60 counterbores and a couple hundred countersinks in aluminum. It still works fine in maple.

 

[rst]

I resharpen my weldons using a grinding point in a dremel (actually a Milwaukee 12v rotary tool).  I sharpen them from inside the shaving cavity.  My biggest is 1 1/2".

 

[sancho57]

I have to ask a stupid question (well, more than one).  Is there a need to have an array of sizes or can you just get a small and large to cover the bases? These aren't meant to counterbore, just countersink, right?  Also, how do you sharpen these?

The ones I use with te tapered bit are used when I have to drill into hardwoods to prevent splitting ot when Im going to use plugs to hide the holes. Otherwise I use screws with nibs on the screws to allow them to self countersink. good for some woods and paint grade.

 

[RKA]

[member=10147]jobsworth[/member] Thanks, I saw that post.  I actually have a set of Fuller bits like that, I’m just filing away the bits [member=44099]Cheese[/member] mentioned for use with aluminum plate or when I’m boring holes in odd sizes (tapping threads in wood).  I might keep a 1/2” in the drawer for those instances.

 

[ScotF]

Centrotec and Snappy for me.

 

[Cheese]

I actually have a set of Fuller bits like that, I’m just filing away the bits [member=44099]Cheese[/member] mentioned for use with aluminum plate or when I’m boring holes in odd sizes (tapping threads in wood).  I might keep a 1/2” in the drawer for those instances.

FWIW Raj, here are a couple of photos of a walnut countertop machined for use with a countersunk 1/4-20 FHCS. If you enlarge the photo, you'll notice an extremely smooth countersunk surface. That's the beauty of this style of countersink. Wood is removed one thin layer at a time. Nothing has been doctored, just a pilot hole was drilled, a KEO countersink was used and the flat head cap screws were installed. The countersinks are a thing of beauty...or as Mario says...Sexy!!!

I'd suggest keeping 2 different sized countersinks in your rucksack. That way you can run the gamut from a #4 FHCS thru a 5/16" FHCS. That's a pretty wide swath of common usage.  [smile]

[attachimg=1]

[attachimg=2]

Because of the wide range of materials I have to deal with, I try to use a single type of machine tool bit for all of the operations. If I had the luxury of only working on wood projects, I'd definitely keep and use one set of KEO countersink bits for only wood working projects  and keep another set for metal working.

Kind of like maintaining two sets of chisels....and who isn't familiar with that?  [big grin]

 

[rst]

Another note on the weldon style counter sinks is that they can be bought with a pilot to insure the counter is concentric with the pilot hole.

 

[Cheese]

Another note on the weldon style counter sinks is that they can be bought with a pilot to insure the countersink is concentric with the pilot hole.

Like these...
http://www.norsemandrill.com/Metal-Countersink-Drills.php

[attachimg=1]

 

[TealaG]

I tried many...my favorite is the Amana style with the stop.