What is your preferred countersink bit

[hdv]

Just as some of the posters above I find it somewhat hard to keep the drill straight when I can't use a drill press. Here's a trick I learned from my mentor long ago that helps me. Put a straight rod in a vise. Check with a level that it is perfectly vertical. Then put the drill on the rod and tighten the chuck. After that glue a bullseye level on the backside of the body and make sure it is level. Let it dry like that. Once done you can use the level to make sure you are drilling vertically.

HTH

 

[Cheese]

It's just a generic 2 flute HSS solid pilot counterbore. Pretty sure I got it from Enco before MSC made them go away [sad]

My thoughts exactly. Although MSC has surprised me and has turned out to be better than I originally thought.  [smile]

 

[RKA]

In regard to wandering countersinks, there are piloted versions available for the Weldon style sinks.  I know have at least three different sizes but so not remember where I bought them from.

Yeah, I saw that in your post on the first page of the thread.  Unfortunately I didn't fully appreciate it's utility until I bought and tried to use the Keo countersinks and now...I do!  [doh]

 

[Cheese]

I’ve never needed one or have actually used a piloted c’sk but with this discussion unfolding, that may indeed be the answer to maintaining a neat appearing c’sk using a hand drill.  [smile]

Would certainly be worth a try.

 

[Michael Kellough]

I’ve never needed one or have actually used a piloted c’sk but with this discussion unfolding, that may indeed be the answer to maintaining a neat appearing c’sk using a hand drill.  [smile]

Would certainly be worth a try.

The pilots are sized for machine screws, so too big for the pilot hole you’d drill for a wood screw.

 

[rst]

The pilot does not need to be full depth of the screw, only enough to guide the initial countersink.  My smallest piloted sink only has 3/16" deep pilot.  I've never bothered to use mine on wood, mostly for metal work. 

 

[Michael Kellough]

It’s the diameter of the pilot on metal working piloted countersink bits that is too big. You’d have to drill a second larger diameter but shallow pilot hole to use the cs bit in wood.

My favorite is the Festool drilling and countersinking bit with integral depth stop. Next favorite is the Amana bit with depth stop but it’s a relative beast compared to the Festool.

 

[Cheese]

It’s the diameter of the pilot on metal working piloted countersink bits that is too big. You’d have to drill a second larger diameter but shallow pilot hole to use the c'sk bit in wood.

Just thinking this whole hand held drill + countersink thing through, if you're up against the boards because you can't use a drill press and you don't own a drill stand, I still think this Weldon piloted zero degree c'sk may be the answer. It may not be as slick as a drill press but it could solve a problem for a lot of people.

Years ago I produced a cheat sheet to make my life easier and the "general" dimensions I've gathered over the years for both square drive and Torx drive wood screws are:
#8...max diameter .150"-.155"...so I'll use a 5/32" clearance drill
#9...max diameter .170"-.175"...so I'll use a 3/16" clearance drill
#10...max diameter .190"-.195"...so I'll use a 13/64" clearance drill
1/4"...max diameter .235"-.240"...so I'll use a 1/4" clearance drill

The Weldon CS8-1 piloted c'sk will produce up to a 33/64" diameter c'sk, so it's useable for any of the above mentioned sized screws. And while the pilot diameter is 1/4" diameter, the depth of the pilot is only 5/32".

A 1/4" diameter thru hole isn't that much larger than a .155" max diameter especially when you consider that the #8 FH screw will be centered by the countersink and not the thru diameter. Unless we're building wooden boats it really doesn't make much difference especially if it's your only option. [smile]

I'm ordering one to try it out.

 

[Sheik Maboutie]

Fuller countersinks all day long