What - non Festool - tool / workshop related gizmo/stuff did you buy today?

[six-point socket II]

Würth's newest 2k wall plugs "Shark Twist". Usable with screws as well as with bolts and in a great variety of building materials. There's a good chance these will become my go to wall plugs once I run down my stock of Fischer, Hilti and Tox enough.

[attachimg=1]

[attachimg=2]

Kind regards,
Oliver

 

[Coen]

Würth's newest 2k wall plugs "Shark Twist". Usable with screws as well as with bolts and in a great variety of building materials. There's a good chance these will become my go to wall plugs once I run down my stock of Fischer, Hilti and Tox enough.

[attachimg=1]

[attachimg=2]

Kind regards,
Oliver

Bolts with metric thread or lag screws? (Dutch: "houtdraadbout", crude English translation; "woodthreadbolt")

Are they superior than the Fischer ones? Or just easier to stock for you? I know Würth mainly as a generic reseller of bolts, nuts, screws, etc.... and like every next bin comes from a different manufacturer. Like their serrated washers; at first they were as sharp as a knife, the next bin you could use them for a face scrub.., the next bin one was average, etc. etc.

But I guess those wall plugs are their own brand.

 

[six-point socket II]

Bolts with metric thread. Those can't be used with the DuoPower from Fischer to the best of my knowledge, so in that regard probably superior. However, I've had zero problems with the DuoPower - so to me this is indeed purely about the ease of stocking the Würth over the rest, as you mentioned.

Once the ETA certificate for the Shark Twist is available, there are maybe other strengths to be discovered over competitor's products.

I've heard what you describe over the washers before. Personally, speaking solely of the products I buy, I've had no turds/ sudden change of quality in products because they were from another manufacturer/ a different batch.

Kind regards,
Oliver

 

[rst]

Plastics edge scraper, used to smooth and shape edge much like a wood scraper would be used.  Has straight edge and another with three profiles, large and small V and a half curve.  had my previous one for thirty years or more, left a colleque use it and got it back bent to 90 %... [crying]

 

[Michael Kellough]

Plastics edge scraper, used to smooth and shape edge much like a wood scraper would be used.  Has straight edge and another with three profiles, large and small V and a half curve.  had my previous one for thirty years or more, left a colleque use it and got it back bent to 90 %... [crying]

Plastic blades or plastic handle?

 

[rst]

scraper is steel, burnished just like wood versions

 

[ChuckM]

My over 25- year-old air compressor died on me yesterday for some unknown reason. It didn't do anything when I switched it on (wall out checked).

Lowe's is getting rid of this made-in-USA Craftsman 6 gal. air compressor (max 150 psi) at the clearance price of $125.95 Cdn (Reg. $229) in my city, so I picked up one this morning.

[attachimg=1]

 

[six-point socket II]

PB Swiss slotted screwdriver No. 4/ 6.5x1.0mm VSM with striking cap.

[attachimg=1]

[attachimg=2]

Curious to see how this one is going to perform over my 9XX series Wera screwdrivers, which I have lately ruined one from.

Kind regards,
Oliver

 

[Packard]

I just googled “world’s best screwdrivers” and saw this ad from Mitchell Instruments.  29 piece hand tools for $3,185.98.

Those must be pretty good too.

My Blum screwdriver does work better on Blum hardware.  But why was it necessary for them to reinvent the Philips head screw?
https://www.mitchellinstrument.com/...MI8uHYg4HS_AIVjaXICh0vZQxhEAQYAiABEgI9oPD_BwE

 

[Michael Kellough]

[member=74278]Packard[/member] it wasn’t Blum. It was GKN.

 

[Packard]

Very interesting.  Thanks.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

My Blum screwdriver does work better on Blum hardware.  But why was it necessary for them to reinvent the Philips head screw?

Because they suck, every last one of them sucks, and so does Henry Ford for sticking us with them, when everyone knows that Robertson was way superior. (still is)

Pozi-drive is effectively Phillips with the stupid removed. The tapered sides, of the Phillips, which allow for the cam-out, are replaced by straight edges. You get a similar ease of driver use, but a far better user-experience.
Some people just don't like (or have easy access to) Robertson (square drive). I use them every day and keep the same driver bit, in an impact driver, for years at a time. The one I am using currently is 3 years old. It's a Milwaukee, that came in a 5 pack. I've given some away, because I didn't feel the need to hold onto spares so much. That one bit has driven multiple thousands of screws. The red plastic coating is gone from the shank, but it sill drives just fine.

 

[Packard]

Crazy—

I did look that up.  It appears to be a concession to production lines.  I agree with you, while the cam out feature may benefit manufacturers, it seems a detriment to the rest of us.

I did notice today that my Confirmat screws have the posi-drive symbol on them.  I never noticed that before.

 

[PaulMarcel]

Because they suck, every last one of them sucks, and so does Henry Ford for sticking us with them, when everyone knows that Robertson was way superior. (still is)

-snip-

Some people just don't like (or have easy access to) Robertson (square drive). I use them every day and keep the same driver bit, in an impact driver, for years at a time. The one I am using currently is 3 years old. It's a Milwaukee, that came in a 5 pack. I've given some away, because I didn't feel the need to hold onto spares so much. That one bit has driven multiple thousands of screws. The red plastic coating is gone from the shank, but it still drives just fine.

I went through my driver bits this week and found messy piles of Robertson bits. Still using the first two from the pack. Like you, I use them nearly exclusively. I do have some excellent self-driving Torx screws; I do like Torx as well although it's much nicer to have just 3 sizes of Roberston (honestly have never used a #3). Flat-head screwdrivers are really just paint-can openers in disguise.

 

[Packard]

My house was built in 1953 and all the door hinges are slotted head.  Luckily the screws are all fairly short. But chrome plated to match the hinges, so I continue to use them.

But I agree, a PITA.

 

[Coen]

PB Swiss slotted screwdriver No. 4/ 6.5x1.0mm VSM with striking cap.

[attachimg=1]

[attachimg=2]

Curious to see how this one is going to perform over my 9XX series Wera screwdrivers, which I have lately ruined one from.

Kind regards,
Oliver

Oooh nice. I never got around to buying those, but I have the regular PB Swiss ones, with the same "Swissgrip" design.
PB excels with it's slotted screwdrivers because the end is parallel so it doesn't cam out. I never understood why 99% of other slotted screwdrivers seem to be designed to cam out.

My Blum screwdriver does work better on Blum hardware.  But why was it necessary for them to reinvent the Philips head screw?

Because they suck, every last one of them sucks, and so does Henry Ford for sticking us with them, when everyone knows that Robertson was way superior. (still is)

Pozi-drive is effectively Phillips with the stupid removed. The tapered sides, of the Phillips, which allow for the cam-out, are replaced by straight edges. You get a similar ease of driver use, but a far better user-experience.
Some people just don't like (or have easy access to) Robertson (square drive). I use them every day and keep the same driver bit, in an impact driver, for years at a time. The one I am using currently is 3 years old. It's a Milwaukee, that came in a 5 pack. I've given some away, because I didn't feel the need to hold onto spares so much. That one bit has driven multiple thousands of screws. The red plastic coating is gone from the shank, but it sill drives just fine.

PZ and especially PH bits will 'find their way' in the screwhead. Torx a bit less. Allen (hexagonal) only when the rounded bits that massively increase the risk of stripping out the hexagon. I image Robertson bits have the same issue with 'finding their way'? Compared to stripping out the screw the Robertson is superior to hex of course but it comes at the trade-off of only have 4 ways to position it, equal to PZ and PH, while Torx and hex offer six. I can't remember ever having had to loosen a Robertson screw. I am fine with them staying at the other side of the Atlantic to give more marketshare to Torx  [tongue]. I buy all the screws I need with Torx head, unless six-fold more expensive. Bicycles usually have allen bolts here, and I have those from the bottom of my heart.

Even the flush-mounted boxes I get with Torx screws. There are (mainly) two companies selling those here; Attema and ABB. Attema still lives in the 19th century using slotted screws everywhere. I buy the boxes from ABB, they use TX8 / SL combo screws in them. For renovation purposed I have an assortment of longer M3 and M4(*) screws with Torx head, but while ABB uses TX8, the regular M3 comes with TX10. TX8 sadly doesn't come standard in the "normal" sets.
*; M4 is used in the central junction boxes in the ceiling. ABB supplies the lids (sold separately in different types) with PZ/SL combo screw... Attema with slotted screw. No clue why anyone would ever want to mount slotted screws overhead. Perhaps that explains that a lot of folks ruin the brass threads in the box by putting a wood screw in there...

 

[six-point socket II]

PB Swiss slotted screwdriver No. 4/ 6.5x1.0mm VSM with striking cap.

[attachimg=1]

[attachimg=2]

Curious to see how this one is going to perform over my 9XX series Wera screwdrivers, which I have lately ruined one from.

Kind regards,
Oliver

Oooh nice. I never got around to buying those, but I have the regular PB Swiss ones, with the same "Swissgrip" design.
PB excels with it's slotted screwdrivers because the end is parallel so it doesn't cam out. I never understood why 99% of other slotted screwdrivers seem to be designed to cam out.

(...)

I've been using PB drivers, bits & ratcheting handles for years now, however not as demolition screwdrivers. So that's why the above is a first one for me. And like you, I consider their slotted drivers the best on the market.

I still have to deal with quite a few slotted head screws here and there.

To be fair, Wera had VSM tip slotted screwdrivers with the 2k "Kraftform" handle (236 series) years ago, but discontinued them. I don't know if they at last still make the acrylic handled ones.

---------

Speaking of Robertson, I do have an original Scrulox Screwdriver with the original tapered tip for Robertson screws.

[attachimg=1]

[attachimg=2]

[attachimg=3]

[attachimg=4]

Kind regards,
Oliver

 

[Cheese]

I've been having some issues with the Morse 1 taper in the tailstock of the lathe releasing tooling prematurely. I tried to assess the condition using Dykem layout ink but that doesn't work well because it dries and it's a tough film to break through.

I decided to try Dykem Hi-Spot also called Prussian Blue. Unlike layout ink, it doesn't dry because it has a grease base and it rubs off of the hi spots and repositions itself to the low spots. So high spots shiny...low spots blue.

Let's see where the issues are. [big grin]

[attachimg=1]

 

[tsmi243]

[popcorn] 

Can't wait to see what you find.  What machine are you running? 

 

[gamecock111]

Order about 5 weeks ago, and showing up tomorrow, dashboardps table and accessories.

I am so excited, and looking forward to all the new capabilities.