I've been using 10ga extension cord and my Honda 2200 for power to my 30x36 shop that I built in 19. I've been trying to decide how best to run electric power the 120' to the shop/garage. I have two huge maples that I planted years ago to strategically shade my back porch and house in the late afternoon and evening. After much research I decided that to trench through the roots, I would probably kill at least one of them. Thus I just ordered a Generac house generator that I will power with propane that will only run when working there. I intend to sell the transfer switch as it will not be necessary.
What - non Festool - tool / workshop related gizmo/stuff did you buy today?
[member=25351]rst[/member] I only mention this because for the past two years people have been doing a LOT of utility work in our small city. Gas, electric and fiber.
Vermeer makes some really cool equipment that drills under everything and actually comes up on the other side where it’s supposed to.
Might be able to find a contractor that will drill under your trees and install the conduit.
https://www.vermeer.com/la/utility-directional-drills
Ron
Vermeer makes some really cool equipment that drills under everything and actually comes up on the other side where it’s supposed to.
Might be able to find a contractor that will drill under your trees and install the conduit.
https://www.vermeer.com/la/utility-directional-drills
Ron
Cheese
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rst said:
Within the last few days I just saw the Generac whole-house on sale (?) for a very reasonable price. If it wasn't a sale then they've dropped their prices significantly and that would be doubtful. [sad] I want to say it was a 30-40% price drop. [blink]
Ron, I actually know a local contractor that has used the Vermeer borer but I’m certain it will cost me much more than the $2600.00 I’ll be in the Generac. I’ll have to have a propane tank also but still should be less than running from the house. I really wanted to buy the new Honda 3200 generator and will at some point to use with our 19 Airstream but it doesn’t have 220 capability.
six-point socket II said:
I just went to the official Wurth site (USA) and they do not show this product. [mad]
https://wurthtool.com/pages/search-results-page?q=razor blade
six-point socket II
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ChuckS said:
That's a great scraper, the triangular carbide blade from Bahco really gets the job done!
It's a great reminder.Kind regards,
Oliver
six-point socket II
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Packard said:
The offering was a limited edition, otherwise I would probably have never found it. You can buy the scraper with two sorts of blades as regular product over here, didn't find it on the US site.
So it's probably like as it is with Snap-On for me, a lot of the US promotional/limited products sadly never make their way over here.
Never gave Wuerth USA much attention, so I have no idea how their offerings relate/compare to those over here.
Kind regards,
Oliver
I’ve been easing the edges on cabinet doors using a piloted router bit from Whiteside:
It has no ball bearings and if I stall at a spot for 1/10th of a second, it will carve a divot into the edge of the piece.
Instead of continuing down that rabbit hole, I purchased a “Cornering Tool Set” from Lee Valley (produced by Veritas).
It comes with two tools, one for 1/16” & 1/8” radii, and the other with 3/16” and 1/4” radii. I have only used the 1/8” radius tool.
Gripe: Why do manufacturers of cutting tools only ship half-sharpened pieces? In any case, I honed it to a sharp edge and after a little practice it pulls “curly-fries” instead of creating dust.
My first efforts were not very good, but my hands learned what was required (even though I am not mentally aware of the adjustment my hands made to do so).
Fast and easy. Minimal amount of sanding required.
Like all “planes” you do have to take into account the direction of the grain or you will plow (USA) or plough (UK) too deeply into the stock.
Another gripe: Lee Valley is a bit too cute to suit me. The price of this set is $39.50. When I go to check out they remind me that at $40.00 I get free shipping. They pretty much push you to add to the purchase.
I added a 3/8” “Utility Brad Point Drill bit ($6.50). Still cheaper than the shipping. I was expecting a made in Taiwan no-name bit (but not a made in China no-name bit). What I got was a blister packed, Made in the USA Montana drill bit. A pretty good bit (I have a Montana set), but “utility” by Lee Valley’s standards.
Also, the description includes an “extrusion and a piece of 600 grit wet/dry paper to use for sharpening. The disappointment was of my doing. I was expecting an aluminum extrusion, instead I received a fairly light gage plastic extrusion. Feels cheap. But it worked.
Evaluation:
Easy to use and effective with good results in the 1/8” radius (the only one I tried). It does need the final sharpening to be useful. I only radiused about 12 feet of stock on all four edges (48 total feet of edging). My arthritic hands had no trouble with this. The shape of the tool is easy to hold.
I’m going to refrain from making a recommendation until I have used it some more. Currently a promising tool that I will have frequent occasion to use. And no saw dust is an advantage.
It has no ball bearings and if I stall at a spot for 1/10th of a second, it will carve a divot into the edge of the piece.
Instead of continuing down that rabbit hole, I purchased a “Cornering Tool Set” from Lee Valley (produced by Veritas).
It comes with two tools, one for 1/16” & 1/8” radii, and the other with 3/16” and 1/4” radii. I have only used the 1/8” radius tool.
Gripe: Why do manufacturers of cutting tools only ship half-sharpened pieces? In any case, I honed it to a sharp edge and after a little practice it pulls “curly-fries” instead of creating dust.
My first efforts were not very good, but my hands learned what was required (even though I am not mentally aware of the adjustment my hands made to do so).
Fast and easy. Minimal amount of sanding required.
Like all “planes” you do have to take into account the direction of the grain or you will plow (USA) or plough (UK) too deeply into the stock.
Another gripe: Lee Valley is a bit too cute to suit me. The price of this set is $39.50. When I go to check out they remind me that at $40.00 I get free shipping. They pretty much push you to add to the purchase.
I added a 3/8” “Utility Brad Point Drill bit ($6.50). Still cheaper than the shipping. I was expecting a made in Taiwan no-name bit (but not a made in China no-name bit). What I got was a blister packed, Made in the USA Montana drill bit. A pretty good bit (I have a Montana set), but “utility” by Lee Valley’s standards.
Also, the description includes an “extrusion and a piece of 600 grit wet/dry paper to use for sharpening. The disappointment was of my doing. I was expecting an aluminum extrusion, instead I received a fairly light gage plastic extrusion. Feels cheap. But it worked.
Evaluation:
Easy to use and effective with good results in the 1/8” radius (the only one I tried). It does need the final sharpening to be useful. I only radiused about 12 feet of stock on all four edges (48 total feet of edging). My arthritic hands had no trouble with this. The shape of the tool is easy to hold.
I’m going to refrain from making a recommendation until I have used it some more. Currently a promising tool that I will have frequent occasion to use. And no saw dust is an advantage.
Roachmill
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^Those things are great to have around. I find them particularly useful on either smaller parts that a router would prove "troublesome" with or solid wood edges with changing grain direction. For the latter, you can work away from the centre of the grain change and be pretty confident of no tearout... you just need to remain focussed enough and not forget there's a direction change; been there and bought the t-shirt!
I've landed on working my way up through the sizes and the first pass with the smallest one is for identifying any grain that wants paying attention to - and to work up to final size on a section that has wonky grain there and then, otherwise I forget and it's swear jar time later on.
The other thing I've found with them is to watch how much pressure I put on them as they can burnish the edges if you lean into them too much.
I've landed on working my way up through the sizes and the first pass with the smallest one is for identifying any grain that wants paying attention to - and to work up to final size on a section that has wonky grain there and then, otherwise I forget and it's swear jar time later on.
The other thing I've found with them is to watch how much pressure I put on them as they can burnish the edges if you lean into them too much.
[member=74278]Packard[/member] Whiteside does make bearing guided roundover bits in smaller radius.
1/16 radius and up in 1/4 shank and 3/16 and up in 1/2 shank
https://www.whitesiderouterbits.com/collections/roundover
Ron
1/16 radius and up in 1/4 shank and 3/16 and up in 1/2 shank
https://www.whitesiderouterbits.com/collections/roundover
Ron
Roachmill said:
I will have to try the 1/16” radius for detecting grain directions. I had one board where the grain direction changed right in the middle. I never paid very much attention to grain direction (except when I’m trimming edge banding), so I don’t have a feel for how often the grain changes in direction.
Crazyraceguy
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I got the smaller version of one of those single flute countersink bits today. This is a case of preparing for next time though. I needed it the other day. The one I have was just a little too big. It wouldn't work on a hole that small or fit between the rails of a glass track extrusion. I struggled through it, but since it will happen again....
Plus I got a self-centering punch. Sometimes it's just easier.
Plus I got a self-centering punch. Sometimes it's just easier.
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As a commercial glazier I’ve been familiar the th Weldon style countersinks for a long time and have sizes up to 1 1/4”s. They are also available with quides to insure that the well is perfectly centered to access hole size and prevent wander. I have ones for 3/16” and 1/4” for critical situations
Cheese
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Here's an assortment of Weldon style Zero flute countersinks next to the Festool version. The KEO countersinks are manufactured from cobalt which makes them useful on aluminum and some limited steel projects. While the Festool version is made from HSS and should be used on wood only. The Festool unit will also work extremely well on aluminum but its service life will be severally diminished.
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Crazyraceguy
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The Festool ones are also 90 degree are they not?
With that new one, I now have two 1/4" and 1/2". My really big one is a multi-flute carbide with a brazed shank.
I generally do wooden holes with a drill bit/countersink combo. The big one is used more like a deburring/chamfering tool in plywood studs, to ease the holes for threaded inserts, when I make field joints in reception desk units.
I use the single flute ones for aluminum most of the time. It is fairly rare that I have to deal with steel, other than cutting in-wall support brackets.
With that new one, I now have two 1/4" and 1/2". My really big one is a multi-flute carbide with a brazed shank.
I generally do wooden holes with a drill bit/countersink combo. The big one is used more like a deburring/chamfering tool in plywood studs, to ease the holes for threaded inserts, when I make field joints in reception desk units.
I use the single flute ones for aluminum most of the time. It is fairly rare that I have to deal with steel, other than cutting in-wall support brackets.
Crazyraceguy said:
I have a self-centering punch also (though I have not laid eyes on in in several years.). I prefer using what I call “center finding punches”, though I think they are more properly called “transfer punches”.
I bought a nice set from Amazon a number of years ago (about when I last saw my center finding punch). I believe I paid about $35.00 including a nice metal stand.
I see that Harbor Freight has a smaller set with a cheaper plastic stand for $12.00.
I don’t need them often, but when I do, they are a godsend. I have a pin vise that will hold these nicely and allows me to mark wood with one hand (no mallet).
Crazyraceguy
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I think of transfer punches as more of a metal working tool. That's how I have always used them anyway.
The self-centering punches are so small that they will fit into some really close spaces. They also are more stable on oblong holes, where the self-centering bits tend to move. A lot of drawer hardware use those.
The main thing is that they cut a nice curling chip, like a hand plane, and never chatter. Some multi-flute countersinks jump and jerk around so badly that the hole they leave behind is more of a hexagon than a circle....
The self-centering punches are so small that they will fit into some really close spaces. They also are more stable on oblong holes, where the self-centering bits tend to move. A lot of drawer hardware use those.
Packard said:
The main thing is that they cut a nice curling chip, like a hand plane, and never chatter. Some multi-flute countersinks jump and jerk around so badly that the hole they leave behind is more of a hexagon than a circle....
