What - non Festool - tool / workshop related gizmo/stuff did you buy today?
threesixright
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charley1968 said:
Special coffee, anti-gravity (picture)? How you drink that? [tongue] ;D
Cheese
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I purchased this Amana countersink. It's pretty sweet, it uses an internal thrust bearing. Here I compared the $35 Amana to the $78 Festool version. They both operate in the same fashion. The center drill along with the countersink are both adjustable for depth. The Amana uses a ball bearing thrust bearing while the Festool uses an Oilite thrust bearing. Neither one is supposed to mar the surface.
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The largest difference is that the Festool countersink cannot be adjusted for a deep countersink because the diameter of the countersink contains no cutters whereas the Amana has cutters so it can be drilled deeper and would work well for installing plugs. Say for use on wooden boats or flooring where plugging the screws may be required/desired. The Amana cuts a 3/8"Ø counterbore to use 3/8"Ø plugs or dowels.
The Amana also has carbide cutter inserts so it can also be used on aluminum or brass.
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The largest difference is that the Festool countersink cannot be adjusted for a deep countersink because the diameter of the countersink contains no cutters whereas the Amana has cutters so it can be drilled deeper and would work well for installing plugs. Say for use on wooden boats or flooring where plugging the screws may be required/desired. The Amana cuts a 3/8"Ø counterbore to use 3/8"Ø plugs or dowels.
The Amana also has carbide cutter inserts so it can also be used on aluminum or brass.
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I purchased it today but I won't have it for 10 to 14 days. I bought the Teknatool DVR motor upgrade for my Rikon 10-325 bandsaw. It's sold by Rikon but made by Teknatool for them. My next big purchase was going to be the NOVA Voyager Drill Press but looks like the bandsaw upgrade won out. Maybe next year for the drill press. I use the BS more than the DP anyway and the DP I have is in good working condition even though I bought it in 1983/4, don't remember exactly this may years later.
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I D/L'd and read through the instructions on performing the upgrade. Pretty straightforward and very little electrical not that that scares me. Manual is very good with clear instructions and color photos illustrating each step.
As long as the shaft rotation was correct, you had a pulley that fit the motor shaft that was compatible with you saw's belt (or were willing to change to a multi-rib belt), and you had the space to mount it I bet you could install the motor upgrade kit on many saws, not just a Rikon. But I will know better once I see it first hand.
It's 1.75 HP which is a slight increase from the 1.5 motor on my 10-325, and can be wired 120 or 240 with no internal changes required, it automatically senses the supply voltage, just change the plug to a 6-15P. When I bought the 10-325 I didn't have 240v in the shop, but when I got the Unisaw I had to run 240 for the 3hp motor, so I may run the bandsaw on 240v but to start I will leave it at 120v.
Look at this [member=44099]Cheese[/member]
http://www.dvrsmartmotor.com/motors.html
Striatech paper on uses for their motors, includes mounting info/dimensions.
Apparently they've been suppling them to ShopSmith for about 9 years now.
http://nebula.wsimg.com/67fda72905d...335855863D27C284A&disposition=0&alloworigin=1
As long as the shaft rotation was correct, you had a pulley that fit the motor shaft that was compatible with you saw's belt (or were willing to change to a multi-rib belt), and you had the space to mount it I bet you could install the motor upgrade kit on many saws, not just a Rikon. But I will know better once I see it first hand.
It's 1.75 HP which is a slight increase from the 1.5 motor on my 10-325, and can be wired 120 or 240 with no internal changes required, it automatically senses the supply voltage, just change the plug to a 6-15P. When I bought the 10-325 I didn't have 240v in the shop, but when I got the Unisaw I had to run 240 for the 3hp motor, so I may run the bandsaw on 240v but to start I will leave it at 120v.
Look at this [member=44099]Cheese[/member]
http://www.dvrsmartmotor.com/motors.html
Striatech paper on uses for their motors, includes mounting info/dimensions.
Apparently they've been suppling them to ShopSmith for about 9 years now.
http://nebula.wsimg.com/67fda72905d...335855863D27C284A&disposition=0&alloworigin=1
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R
Rob Z
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Peter--very nice. I have the Lie Nielsen model and use it more than any other plane. You will really enjoy that new plane.
I just bought a late 1800's Stanley transitional jack plane (wood body with metal frog, adjuster, etc.) Nearly mint condition and a joy to use. Spent not more than five minutes with the iron and it was making shavings.
I just bought a late 1800's Stanley transitional jack plane (wood body with metal frog, adjuster, etc.) Nearly mint condition and a joy to use. Spent not more than five minutes with the iron and it was making shavings.
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Rob Z
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Michel said:
Hello Michel,
I reeeeaaaaalllyyy wanted to buy an Erika 85 but with the only dealer being such a long drive away from where I live, I couldn't do it. For something that expensive I needed to see it in person. I hope you will post some pics once you get yours set up. [big grin]
Cheese
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Bob D. said:
Thanks for that [member=60461]Bob D.[/member] I've spent most of the morning reading about the Striatech motor. [smile] I wonder why more of them aren't in use...pricing?
I also just learned that Baldor was purchased by ABB a number of years ago. [sad]
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Yeah, it seems al the old American companies have been bought out by foreign concerns, probably for tax reasons.
I am thinking of starting a thread about doing the motor upgrade to my bandsaw. I really don't see why this could be done to your average 14" Cast Iron frame bandsaw that mimics the long running design of the Delta 14" CI bandsaw and all the copies sold under any of 3 dozen names in the last 50 years. They are different design than the Rikon and more modern steel frame saws I know but I think it's possible. Is it a sensible thing to do I doubt it. Putting a $600 motor on a $400 or 500 saw, will the upgrade be worth the trouble, maybe not. But adding this motor to a Grizzly or other saw should be easy.
I'm already thinking of what to do with the old 1.5HP Rikon motor. And if I read correctly if I power the new motor with 240 it is rated at 2HP, so something to consider there.
But enough about the motor upgrade for this thread, getting WOT.
I am thinking of starting a thread about doing the motor upgrade to my bandsaw. I really don't see why this could be done to your average 14" Cast Iron frame bandsaw that mimics the long running design of the Delta 14" CI bandsaw and all the copies sold under any of 3 dozen names in the last 50 years. They are different design than the Rikon and more modern steel frame saws I know but I think it's possible. Is it a sensible thing to do I doubt it. Putting a $600 motor on a $400 or 500 saw, will the upgrade be worth the trouble, maybe not. But adding this motor to a Grizzly or other saw should be easy.
I'm already thinking of what to do with the old 1.5HP Rikon motor. And if I read correctly if I power the new motor with 240 it is rated at 2HP, so something to consider there.
But enough about the motor upgrade for this thread, getting WOT.
Cheese
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A few days ago I received the Woodpeckers Sharpening System. It's pretty slick. I've had the original Veritas jig for a number of years and it always worked well except for the micro bevel. I could never remember which way to turn the knob. So this was an opportunity to put that issue to bed.
The Woodpeckers system is really, really nice. It's so straight-forward and easy to adjust. Set the jig for the correct angle, no goofy angle gauge to jerk around with, mount the blade/chisel in the holder, set the holder on the baseplate, touch off the chisel/blade to the depth stop, tighten and you're done. It's really simple and I think it will be an extremely accurate and repeatable way to sharpen tools.
For me, repeatability is the issue, if sharpening repeatability is not present, then you're sharpening to 25º one time and sharpening to 24º the next time. That means a lot of metal needs to be removed, that slows down the process. I just want to sharpen it to 25º and be done with it. Throw in the 2º micro bevel and I'm done.
I think the Woodpeckers offering gets with the program. We'll see, I'll check it out in the next couple of days.
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The Woodpeckers system is really, really nice. It's so straight-forward and easy to adjust. Set the jig for the correct angle, no goofy angle gauge to jerk around with, mount the blade/chisel in the holder, set the holder on the baseplate, touch off the chisel/blade to the depth stop, tighten and you're done. It's really simple and I think it will be an extremely accurate and repeatable way to sharpen tools.
For me, repeatability is the issue, if sharpening repeatability is not present, then you're sharpening to 25º one time and sharpening to 24º the next time. That means a lot of metal needs to be removed, that slows down the process. I just want to sharpen it to 25º and be done with it. Throw in the 2º micro bevel and I'm done.
I think the Woodpeckers offering gets with the program. We'll see, I'll check it out in the next couple of days.
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Michael Kellough
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[member=44099]Cheese[/member] looks like a mirror polish on that bevel. How’d you do that?
Cheese
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Michael Kellough said:
I used this stuff Michael along with a piece of leather mounted on a flat board. It produces a nice polished finish but I'm not so sure it provides any discernible cutting advantage.
I may try it again with the new Woodpeckers kit but I don't have any high expectations.
Whoops...forgot to add the photo.
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Jiggy Joiner
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That looks a really class tool Cheese, Woodpeckers and TSO seem to make superb tools. [thumbs up]
rmwarren
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Cheese said:
Yup. I have a knock off with the typical smaller jaws, this was too pretty and unusual to pass up. Plan on making some accessory mounting posts from 1.5" DOM so it's easy to move around to the 80/20 stuff all over the shop.
Total impulse at midnight last night, I'm still giggling. Should show up Friday.
Thanks.
RMW
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Rob Z
Guest
Richard, that vise just begs to have something clamped in it ! Any idea of the vintage?
On the way here is a late 1800's Stanley #113 circular plane. I can't wait to use it. I used to finish off all my curved work with a spindle sander. But after some local felons borrowed it (along with my truck) [censored] [censored] [censored] I have been thinking about giving a 113 a try.
No dust, just shavings now. [big grin]
On the way here is a late 1800's Stanley #113 circular plane. I can't wait to use it. I used to finish off all my curved work with a spindle sander. But after some local felons borrowed it (along with my truck) [censored] [censored] [censored] I have been thinking about giving a 113 a try.
No dust, just shavings now. [big grin]
