What - non Festool - tool / workshop related gizmo/stuff did you buy today?

[egmiii]

I use a lot of electronic measuring devices and I learned over time to remove the batteries unless using over multiple days.  That being said I have Calculated Industries devices and Stabilas that I have never changed batteries.

I have a Stabila laser which has used the same batteries for 5 years. I also have a 6" Mitutoyo digital caliper which has used the same battery for 8 years. Both get used a couple times a month. I've never taken the batteries out of either tool.

 

[Cheese]

Maybe not the four sizes but I am pretty sure that type of wrench (the layered mechanical construction) was the first type of ratcheting wrench compared to the Gear Wrench style that is constructed like a  "normal" wrench.

Here's a shot of the original laminated style ratcheting box end wrench and a newer integrated ratcheting flex box and open end wrench combo.

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[Cheese]

I keep each set on one of these, maybe not this exact model, but they're color coded black/red so I can quickly grab SAE/metric and take them with me to what I'm working on. They come in different sizes so you're not wasting space if you have 5 wrenches you don't need 10 slots etc:

That's the same thing I do...SAE in red and metric in black.

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[RJNeal]

A commercial building for my new shop approximately 1500 sq ft.
I relocating a little north of the Napa valley. I decided instead of building a shop on the property, it was easier to buy a c-3 zone building.
Film at eleven.
Rick.

 

[Gregor]

Film at eleven.

We're looking forward to your videos  [smile]

 

[Cheese]

Here's a really nice 82º carbide tipped adjustable countersink from Amana tools. It supports the Centrotec system. It includes a thrust bearing and will not leave marks in the wood. This is for a #4 screw.

It's also half the price of the Festool variant IF...Festool would even produce a countersink for a #4 screw.
https://www.toolstoday.com/carbide-...mpatible-with-festool-centrotec-system-2.html

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[notenoughcash]

the small matter of one of these....

probably a sin to get one of them around here been non-festool and all that.  but how many 16 year olds can affod a £1000 mitre saw.

(there is also the minor complication of the ma and pa.  they dont see how i can justify it.........)

 

[Cheese]

the small matter of one of these....

probably a sin to get one of them around here been non-festool and all that.  but how many 16 year olds can affod a £1000 mitre saw.

The local metal dealer, Discount Steel, uses normal Milwaukee metal chop saws for cutting metals but 3-4 years ago they added about a half-dozen Evolution sliders in the yard for cutting wider material to length. They're in use every day.  [smile]

 

[Cheese]

4 each knurled 1/4" ID drill bushings

A 12" length of tight-tolerance 1/4" OD 12L14 steel rod

A Zobo System 3 Forstner bit in 16 mm diameter

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[Michael Kellough]

[member=44099]Cheese[/member]  hope you start a thread for whatever you’re doing with that stuff.

 

[Cheese]

[member=44099]Cheese[/member]  hope you start a thread for whatever you’re doing with that stuff.

Hey Michael, I originally wasn’t planning on doing that but that’s probably a good idea. It’s a simple jig for attaching false drawer fronts onto drawers.

 

[Mike Goetzke]

Don’t use them all the time but always wanted a set:

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They look decent for $60 out the door (Craftsman).

 

[Cheese]

I've written before about these Amana countersinks. Previously I used them to countersink screws far below the surface of the material I was using. I now needed to countersink screws flush with the surface and decided to find out how difficult the adjustment process was going to be.

The first one I that I adjusted I did off of the drill press and it was pretty easy to get the correct setting in 2-3 tries. The next 3 were adjusted while still on the drill press and that was even easier & faster.  [big grin]

Here's a shot of a #10, #8, #6 & #4 countersink. Note that the #4 on the RH side is Centrotec compatible. That option was not available when I purchased the first 3 countersinks.

These countersinks are carbide tipped and can be used on aluminum.
https://www.toolstoday.com/carbide-...e-depth-stop-with-no-thrust-ball-bearing.html
https://www.toolstoday.com/carbide-...mpatible-with-festool-centrotec-system-2.html

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[DynaGlide]

Darn it [member=44099]Cheese[/member] now I want those. I have to build some base and upper cabinets. I like GRK R4 screws and I think I'll go #8 for attaching the sides to the bottoms and stretchers with dominoes for alignment and that Amana bit in 5/32 for doing the pilot holes.

 

[Cheese]

Darn it [member=44099]Cheese[/member] now I want those. I have to build some base and upper cabinets. I like GRK R4 screws and I think I'll go #8 for attaching the sides to the bottoms and stretchers with dominoes for alignment and that Amana bit in 5/32 for doing the pilot holes.

Ya, because these are adjustable for depth, you can adjust them to cut just a smidge deeper to compensate for the cutter nibs on the bottom of the R4 screws...like this.

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[TinyShop]

Snappy sells a Centrotec-compatible countersink with ball bearing stop collar that fits their various "gold screw" countersinks. From what I've been able to determine they manufacture it themselves in the U.S. The Amana offerings are produced in Israel and are thus non-BDS compatible. I own the Snappy model and am very happy with it.

 

[DynaGlide]

Snappy sells a Centrotec-compatible countersink with ball bearing stop collar that fits their various "gold screw" countersinks. From what I've been able to determine they manufacture it themselves in the U.S. The Amana offerings are produced in Israel and are thus non-BDS compatible. I own the Snappy model and am very happy with it.

[member=64030]TinyShop[/member] Thanks for sharing. I already own the Snappy non-Centrotec countersinks. The stop collar @ $25 seems like a good deal to use what I already own.

 

[FestitaMakool]

A level.. but what a level [tongue]
My two ageing Alu H-profile levels have served me many years. The most I love about them is that you can hold them with one hand when framing due to the H aluminium profile.
There’s not too many that enables one hand-holding-the 2x4” and the level at the same time..

Then I found this, and I realised that all the swearing I had done not seeing the air bulb in dim lighting had come to an end. Beware: this is a must have tool when your near sight becomes “dim” to say least.
And I felt grown up buying his longer brother in the same moment.

 

[danrush]

I like my Stabilla levels, but be sure to keep some extra batteries close. They go thru them quickly. I do wish they lit up both plumb vials though. It seems that I'm always flipping the level while bracing a cabinet and juggling a driver.

 

[rst]

Ordered an 8' twin step ladder, 12amp/hrs Milwaukee 18v battery and two more 6 amp/hrs to power the 1 3/4 rotary hammer I bought.