What - non Festool - tool / workshop related gizmo/stuff did you buy today?

[FestitaMakool]

I like my Stabilla levels, but be sure to keep some extra batteries close. They go thru them quickly. I do wish they lit up both plumb vials though. It seems that I'm always flipping the level while bracing a cabinet and juggling a driver.

Thanks for your advise. I have an early developed panic for running out on batteries.. with my photo interest many years ago I went on holiday abroad to a remote place, determined to have some great photos taken.. back then the 2CR5 battery was nothing you bought on the local grocery store... and I had forgot to pack the spares... [scared] - I made me a promise back then.

Stabilas are great levels, and I agree with you, they could easily have lit both plumb vials simultaneously. Pushing the button, holding the 2x4 and the level with a hammer or drill.. yeah.. too bad the nose isn’t stiff enough sometimes  [big grin]

 

[RKA]

I would give my pinky finger for those lighted vials!  My stabilas have no such thing! 

Today’s workshop gizmo was an Epson industrial labeler.  It can print on heat shrink tubes, which I somehow only learned about last week.  No more peeling scotch tape and faded labels from the homeowner grade labelers (I hope).  They also have self laminating label stock for terminated cat cables and the like where you can’t slip the heat shrink tube over the cable or can’t apply heat to shrink the tubes.

 

[FestitaMakool]

That sounds like a printer I’d like.. I like Epson photo printers from before.
I envisioned some tool labelling and so forth with those printed tubes.. cool.

 

[Cheese]

An Amana carbide tipped adjustable counterbore. You change the counterbore diameter by changing the drill bit size.

A 1/8" drill will yield a .453 diameter while a 19/64" bit yields a .637 diameter.

A 3 mm drill will yield a 11.4 mm diameter while a 7.5 mm bit yields a 16.4 mm diameter.
https://www.toolstoday.com/carbide-tipped-adjustable-counterbore-bits.html

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[Bob D.]

Interesting, thanks for posting that Cheese.

Did you get a set of pilot bits or just the one you needed for this project.

Looked but couldn't find a set with everything included. Did you come across one?

 

[Cheese]

No pilot bits needed Bob, that’s the cool part. I can switch between metric and imperial and between twist bits and brad point bits.  [big grin]

 

[mike_aa]

[member=44099]Cheese[/member]  You always come up with the coolest stuff!  Thanks!  [thumbs up]

 

[AlexThePalex]

I got a couple of tools for free for my German job. No matter how many tools I have, there is always something I don't have, though that list is getting shorter one by one.

We needed to rent the tools anyway, for three weeks, and simply buying them was cheaper than renting. The good part is, I get to keep them. [tongue]

Metabo 2860-2 Quick hammer drill.

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Perfectmate 60 cm tile cutter.

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[FestitaMakool]

[member=44099]Cheese[/member] That’s something new to me and very useful, haven’t seen these before. Noted  [smile]

[member=5277]Alex[/member] That’s the successor to my UHP 28?? Something says to me that you will be impressed and happy with that hammer drill. I will not part with mine - it did even beat my neighbour’s big Hilti into drilling 20 mm holes in solid rock. He went out and bought the same as mine - and he’s a professional carpenter.

 

[Cheese]

[member=44099]Cheese[/member]  You always come up with the coolest stuff!  Thanks!  [thumbs up]

Thanks [member=30413]mike_aa[/member] . [smile]  I've always thought that tooling was an interesting subset of machining no matter what material you're using. Whether it's a Bridgeport a Hardinge or just a Festool router, the tooling is the magic. That expensive machine tool without tooling is just a huge chunk of scrap metal that's only worth 11¢ per pound.

 

[Cheese]

More hardened drill bushings... [drooling] [drooling]

This time though instead of being the press-in variety they are the threaded variety. This allows you to easily change them in your jigs/fixtures.

I like to use these in hard maple fixtures that you can drill & tap a nice thread into like it's aluminum using a 1/2-20 thread. They're also inexpensive at $1.50 - $2.00 each. The press-in variety run $8 - $12 each.

The only down side is they come in very limited diameters, 1/8", 3/16", 1/4", 5/16" and 3/8". Made in the US by Telco Tools out of Michigan.
https://www.hfwilson.com/search.asp?target=drill+bushing&Image131.x=0&Image131.y=0

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[ChuckM]

More choices including some metric ones can be had at LVT:https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/hardware/jig-and-fixture-parts/40089-drill-guide-bushings

 

[Michael Kellough]

Believe it or not but MDF is great for drill bushing jigs.
As long as you keep it away from water, it doesn’t warp.

 

[Cheese]

Believe it or not but MDF is great for drill bushing jigs.
As long as you keep it away from water, it doesn’t warp.

Thanks for that [member=297]Michael Kellough[/member] ...I'll give it a shot. The pressed-in drill bushings will be in maple to avoid splitting, I'll try the MDF treatment for the threaded in variety. In the end, It all becomes a science experiment at some time .  [big grin]

 

[online421]

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bought this not today but not too long ago.

3rd forklift in 2 years...

learnt my lesson.

 

[vkumar]

[member=60639]online421[/member] it is hard to top that!!!! [big grin]

 

[Bob D.]

"learnt my lesson."

What was the lesson.

The last one should have been the first and only one?

 

[jcrowe1950]

An Amana carbide tipped adjustable counterbore. You change the counterbore diameter by changing the drill bit size.

A 1/8" drill will yield a .453 diameter while a 19/64" bit yields a .637 diameter.

A 3 mm drill will yield a 11.4 mm diameter while a 7.5 mm bit yields a 16.4 mm diameter.
https://www.toolstoday.com/carbide-tipped-adjustable-counterbore-bits.html

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You are a dangerous man Cheese....

 

[online421]

"learnt my lesson."

What was the lesson.

The last one should have been the first and only one?

Cry once, laugh forever... I always stick to this but because I don’t use the forklift that often so I thought an old forklift would do but NO....

My first forklift turned out did not have proper brakes (Mitsubishi brake on Komatsu) it was a 40-45 yo forklift
2nd forklift has transmission fault after I bought and used for 20 hours which would cost $3k to $6k to repair. It was about 30-40 yo.

Current forklift is a 10 yo with 10,000 hours on it. Bought from the company who sold it and serviced it since new. Ok not Brand new but a lot more reliable than the previous 2. 

 

[FestitaMakool]

I just couldn’t resist buying this.. The woodworker will be served  [tongue]
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