What - non Festool - tool / workshop related gizmo/stuff did you buy today?

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I recently learned that Class 1 tape measures were a thing, so curiosity got the best of me and I ordered a 3 meter Hultafors. In some non-scientific tests (hooking the tape to a Woodpeckers 900mm rule and seeing where the marks line up), it doesn't appear to be any more accurate than my Fastcap. Neither of them match up to the rule when there's tension on the hook, but the marks on the tapes are perfectly matched across all three. I won't be marking out dovetails any time soon so I think I'll be ok using them [cool]

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The only tape measure that's good for me is the SAME tape that is used throughout the same project/same measurement. The classes don't matter to me. Most of my tape measures (even with the same brand or from the same source) don't align with each other, or with the tape on my SawStop.
 
I found myself working in northern California at our family home; I had brought my old-style Vecturo and my ETS/EC 125/150.
Had the need to do some detail sanding; ordered a Starlock adapter from Amazon but it wasn’t going to arrive until too late. So I found myself ordering a Makita MXT04 multi tool and charger/battery along with a Starlock sanding pad. Why the Makita? Because I have a bunch of. Other XLT 18V tools.
The reviews of the MXT04 emphasized low vibration; I didn’t realize how big a deal that was until I started using the new multi tool with the sanding pad. Really an astonishingly low level of vibration, and the tool did the job on the detail sanding, while the ETS/EC 125 was great on the flat surfaces.
The whole Makita kit with battery, charger, and Starlock sanding pad was about 350, which is about 1/2 the cost of the cordless Vecturo. I haven’t cut anything with it yet, and it doesn’t have the depth cut and square cut accessories of the Vecturo, but I have those with my old corded Vecturo.
 
After getting tired of fighting with the Holzmann HOB260NL jointer/planer (planer/thicknesser) for nearly two years, I bought a Minimax FS 30G with the three-knife Tersa head.  It arrived on Friday and I'm waiting on a friend to come over and help me move it to the basement.

If I can't find a new home for the HOB260NL, I'll haul it to the metal reclamation yard (I'm serious).  If anyone in the greater Frankfurt area is interested, it's free for collection.  It is the only machine I regret buying.

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Hi Mike,
Interesting.. having seen these Holzmann machines marketed here quite frequently, I had the joy of reading from the dealers ad: “A compact and reliable combination planer and thicknesser for the small workshop, easy and quick to convert between the two functions”.

They look all right, although my scepticism to brands that I don’t know of have put me off.
I tend to ask around pro’s which brand to look for as a hobbyist. Usually I get straight honest answers. (As the guy who where selling his MFK 700 and I was curious, he told me to keep using my Makita for roundovers. So he sold it to another guy..)

But Minimax has caught my eye, when I grow up I’d like to have a look at a combination machine, preferably with a slider. Hope you let us know how you like your new machine!
 
Hi FestitaMakool,

I was just starting to outfit my workshop when I bought the Holzmann machine.  My purchase was based solely on what was in stock and what looked like it might function.  I wanted to buy machines from Axminster in the UK, but they would not ship to Germany, so I bought local.  The Holzmann is manufactured to a price point and as delivered, it is not possible to adjust the infeed and outfeed tables to make them coplanar.  Each table has two steel pins on the hinge side that lock it in position and prevent the adjusters from working.  Removing the pins allows the tables to be adjusted.  In fact, I removed the adjuster bolts as an experiment and the tables didn't budge.  There is no mention of these pins in the owner's manual, so they are not transit pins to be removed.

The thicknesser table changes alignment with the cutter block with minor changes to the height adjustment, and locking the table in place changes the alignment again, but the change is not consistent.  For example, passing a board through the thicknesser at 50mm might result in one side being 49mm thick and the other side being 51mm thick.  Adjusting the table for a thickness of 48 mm might result in the previous thicker side now being thinner and the thin side being thicker.  Measuring the thickness after a cut is almost better than a random number generator.  I gave up trying to use a Wixey DRO on the thicknesser because the table tilt was too random.

There are several versions of this machine from other manufacturers that appear to share the same factory...with the same faults.  I will be very disappointed if the Minimax suffers from any of these problems, but am confident it will be fine based on the quality of the other SCM machine I own.

When I was looking for a table saw, I wanted a decent cabinet saw, but was not able to find any in Germany.  The choices were contractor saws or larger sliders.  I was leaning towards the Hammer K3 Winner or Basic; however, after talking to the sales rep, I changed my mind and bought the Minimax SC2C.  The Hammer would take between 90 and 120 days before it was ready to ship and I would have to make my own arrangements for shipping and commissioning.  The Minimax was in stock at the distributor (also my Festool source) and the price, which was nearly the same as the Hammer, included delivery, assembly, and commissioning.  I bought the FS 30G from the same distributor.

My selection of tools is based on the ability to navigate down the stairs to the basement shop, either in whole or in part.  The SC2C was delivered in parts, but I had to disassemble it more by separating the cast iron table from the chassis and removing the concrete counter balance in order to be able to move it.  I reassembled the chassis when it was in the basement.  I didn't tell the commissioning technician that I had taken it apart, but he knew.  He told me the wiring harness was dressed better than it was when it left the factory.
 
I bought a little Stabila level that came with a holster from Amazon.  Yesterday I went to Lowes to buy a Dremel.  I thought being cordless would be more versatile so I decided on the 8220 model.  I later learned it can work with the same Bosch 12V batteries that I have from my Bosch Flexidrill (requires a slight modification).  I also grabbed a retractable pencil, a Purdy folding 10 in 1 painters tool, a Lenox folding jab knife, a Hillman Bolt, Nut, and Screw Gauge, and a pair of Knipex Cobra Pliers.

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Damn FOG
with the bridge city tools sale posted on the Fog the other day I broke down and put in an order. Ordered a couple squares and the center scribe.
I've wanted the center scribe for a long time but ~ $300 wasn't a realistic option. Been watching fleabay as well but the old rosewood and brass ones go for quite a bit. At $169 it was a more reasonable purchase.
 
GoingMyWay said:
I picked up some waste-side cut jigs, vacuum hose/cable clips, and dust covers for the TS55 and 75 from Strawbyte Workshop before Christmas.

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I just learned about these waste-side cut jigs. Hey [member=66216]GoingMyWay[/member] how are they working out for you? Are you finding them to be useful, or is it one of those things that are quickly forgotten and end up in drawer?

I finally picked up an oscillating belt sander as I'm hoping to get cleaner edges on my templates.

This -- or, the previous version anyway -- seems to be one of the most popular tools I see in people's workshops and the reviews I've read and watched tend to be overwhelmingly positive. Interestingly, the new version is $20 cheaper than the old version. Less plastic, I suppose.

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Skilsaw, for steel.

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One thing leads to another, needed its own "guide rail"...

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Whomped up from some 1/4" plate and flat bar.

RMW

 

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WERA 05020110001 6004 Joker 4 Set 1 Self-setting spanner set
WERA 05020104001 6004 Joker XL self-setting spanner 19-24mm
 
Richard/RMW said:
Skilsaw, for steel.

Whomped up from some 1/4" plate and flat bar.

RMW

THAT is cool. 

Along those same lines, the Grizzly mini tracksaw happens to take 4.5" blades.... with a 5/8 arbor..... at ~12k rpm...... you see where this is going.  I need to find a replacement for the rubber splinter guard, but for now just offsetting a few mm isn't too bad. 
 
4nthony said:
GoingMyWay said:
I picked up some waste-side cut jigs, vacuum hose/cable clips, and dust covers for the TS55 and 75 from Strawbyte Workshop before Christmas.

index.php

I just learned about these waste-side cut jigs. Hey [member=66216]GoingMyWay[/member] how are they working out for you? Are you finding them to be useful, or is it one of those things that are quickly forgotten and end up in drawer?

Hi [member=75283]4nthony[/member] I actually haven't had a chance to use the waste-side jigs yet.  I haven't really done any woodworking since last November.

I more often than not find myself making narrow cuts with the tracksaw.  I keep a Veritas 3/32" setup block in my apron pocket to aid with the narrow cuts, but I thought these jigs would be easier and more convenient so I expect that I will find these jigs very helpful. 

I'll try to report back once I finally get around to using them.
 
For the last several years, I have settled on the OLFA brand of knives.  They seem to be consistently better engineered and better built than the others I have tried.  Surprisingly they don't seem to offer any single blade utility knives.

The most recent I have is this one.  The thumb wheel lock seems to be 100% reliable--better than any of the other systems I have tried.

On a side note, I tried a package of carbide tipped blades--I don't remember if it was DeWalt or Stanley.  They were nice and sharp and stayed sharp except for the tip at the end of the blade.  That seemed to dull faster than a regular blade.  Since I slice a lot of paper, that tip has to be sharp or the paper tears.  I won't be buying those expensive blades again.

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My favorite pocket knife is this Gerber.  Sturdy construction and it holds the blade securely.  Just $11.00.  Since I never used the clip I removed it to make it even more pocketable.  It does leave an notch in the handle, but overall, an improvement for me.

https://www.amazon.com/Gerber-Lite-...ref=sr_1_5?crid=AK11RNOOTQ2W&keywords=folding+utility+knife+with+belt+clip&qid=1645648755&s=hi&sprefix=folding+u%2Ctools%2C98&sr=1-5

 
I don't carry a knife in my pocket or apron. I place the knives on a shelf by the bench. The Solingen, also made in Germany, is the knife I usually use for all light cutting tasks: paper, boxes, cork sheets, etc.

The Delphin 03 will mostly cover the heavy cuts.

When I pick up a knife, I often prefer to be able to use it right away without unfolding or removing it from a holder first as my other hand may already be occupied, such as holding a box to be cut.
 

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I've been using Olfas forever, every size from the pen size to the heavy duty one...I only by their blades as they are sharper and last longer.  I just ordered 4 more Kreg flip stops so I can leave them on my drill press instead of removing from my saw station. Using them on 10 series extrusions.
 
On a utility knife tangent, I've been honing my blades on an Arkansas stone with a little spit and cannot recall the last time I replaced one. Even the narrow break-to-renew type.

My dad laid carpet for years, before blades came in the hundred pack, and he'd stone them till there was nothing left. That memory made me realize how wasteful it was to toss a blade the first time it got dull.

RMW
 
I helped lay carpet in the 70s, we kept a stone in our pockets to sharpen our razor blades
 
I used to sharpen blades before I became a picture framer back in the 1980s.  With each frame, I applied a craft paper dust cover that hand to be hand trimmed with a blade. The tip had to be perfectly sharp or it would tear the edges.  I got into the habit of using a fresh point for each frame.  I could go through 5 to 8 points per day in that way. This was light-duty work, so breakaway blades worked fine.

Each morning I would make sure the 8 or so utility knife handles had fresh blades for that same reason.  Blades were way cheaper than redoing a piece of work.

Also, to maintain a rhythm, I did not want to be loading blades while working.  So I made sure that all the handles were loaded.
 
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