What - non Festool - tool / workshop related gizmo/stuff did you buy today?
Cheese
Member
Nice Matt...are you going to install a helical cutter head?
DynaGlide
Member
- Joined
- May 16, 2017
- Messages
- 1,697
Cheese said:
[member=44099]Cheese[/member] I'd like to, but availability from reputable sellers is scarce. Amazon has it from some company I've never heard of before and there are a lot of websites with "shelixheads" "byrdtools" or some variation offering it so it's hard to tell which are authentic.
Matt
Cheese
Member
DynaGlide said:
I purchased the small diameter Shelix from Holbren before the larger diameter was offered. I would have preferred the large diameter version but I'm still quite satisfied with the version l have. The stock Dewalt knives are like butter, they give a real nice surface finish but they wear out quickly and cannot be resharpened.
Have you heard of Lux Cut? That may be an alternative.
https://mywoodcutters.com/LuxCutIIIHead_for_DEWALT_13_INCH_Planer_Model_DW-735_or_DW-735X
The Shelix head is manufactured in the US and comes with German manufactured carbide inserts.
This is from Byrd Tool:
Since April 2020 we have been overrun by demand for DW735 Shelix heads. Note, due to extreme demand plus raw material shortages DW735 heads typically ship between 38 and 48 weeks from when your order is placed. Fully installed planers with DW735 heads pre-installed typically ship with 7 to 10 business days and are ready to use right out of the box.
=5
[member=65062]DynaGlide[/member] - Call Byrd Tool Corp. directly at 1-800-441-BYRD (2973). Ask for Becky and if you get the answers you want ask her if you can have a discount. There are a lot of resellers that buy their heads at wholesale and then resell them for less than they do at retail. Their websites are easy to find and they make themselves look the manufacturer but they are not. Becky is great, very knowledgable and helpful but don’t put too much stock in her time estimate, they do run behind.
Packard
Member
I did not buy this recently, but I did use it the other day. Transfer punch set. Allows you to transfer the center points of holes to another piece of stock for accurate drilling.
This is not the illustration in Amazon, but it shows the parts better. I purchased it for about $27.00 for the set. Harbor Freight has it for a lot less and that would probably be fine if all you are marking is wood, aluminum or brass. I don't use it often, but when I need it, it is the only thing that really works. They are pretty similar to dowel centers. They are available in metric or imperial sizes. I have imperial and it is close enough in size to work for the metric holes I had to center. The video shows mounting a router plate on a router table (a perfect application for these punches).
This is not the illustration in Amazon, but it shows the parts better. I purchased it for about $27.00 for the set. Harbor Freight has it for a lot less and that would probably be fine if all you are marking is wood, aluminum or brass. I don't use it often, but when I need it, it is the only thing that really works. They are pretty similar to dowel centers. They are available in metric or imperial sizes. I have imperial and it is close enough in size to work for the metric holes I had to center. The video shows mounting a router plate on a router table (a perfect application for these punches).
Cheese
Member
I purchased a set of KEO M42 (cobalt) center drills, which is a countersink combined with a small drill point that’s typically used to produce a center in the end of long material that will be turned between centers on a lathe.
I use them a lot for spotting holes in metal that will be drilled on a drill press or even drilled by hand. The traditional method is to mark the hole, center punch it and then attempt to center the drill bit and start drilling the pilot hole, the usual result is that the drill bit “walks” off of the center punch and tries to drill at a slight angle. It mucks up the starting hole and it mucks up the drill bit geometry.
The reason for this is the combination of the large point/lip size and the small diameter of the drill bit shank along with its long length. The wide lip skates off of the center punch mark and the long drill bit flexes/bends.
With a center drill, the drill point is small while the drill body is large and short. It’s an extra step in the hole drilling process but if you need straight, accurately placed holes in metal it’s worth the extra effort.
These also work well on wood if you need extreme precision for hole locations. I can draw something up in CAD, print 1:1, use that as a template, attach it to the wood and then center drill the hole locations with the small diameter center drill. The hole locations will all be within .005” if you’re careful.
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
Just to give you an idea of the drill body diameter vs the drill point size, it usually runs around 2.4:1.
#1 = 1/8” body = .046” hole dia
#2 = 3/16” body = .078” hole dia
#3 = 1/4” body = .109” hole dia
#4 = 5/16” body = .125” hole dia
#5 = 7/16” body = .187” hole dia
As I mentioned, these are 60º cobalt while HSS is standard but TiN coated and TiAlN coated HSS and solid carbide are also options. Optional angles are both 82º and 90º.
And finally here’s a photo of a standard length #4 body (5/16” diameter) center drill vs a 4" long length #4 body center drill usually referred to as a #4 x 4. This is a 4” version and they’re offered in lengths up to 8” long to reach into difficult areas.
If you’re interested in just trying one for your projects, I’d suggest the #4 is probably my most used size and that’d be a good way to evaluate its usefulness
[attachimg=3]
I use them a lot for spotting holes in metal that will be drilled on a drill press or even drilled by hand. The traditional method is to mark the hole, center punch it and then attempt to center the drill bit and start drilling the pilot hole, the usual result is that the drill bit “walks” off of the center punch and tries to drill at a slight angle. It mucks up the starting hole and it mucks up the drill bit geometry.
The reason for this is the combination of the large point/lip size and the small diameter of the drill bit shank along with its long length. The wide lip skates off of the center punch mark and the long drill bit flexes/bends.
With a center drill, the drill point is small while the drill body is large and short. It’s an extra step in the hole drilling process but if you need straight, accurately placed holes in metal it’s worth the extra effort.
These also work well on wood if you need extreme precision for hole locations. I can draw something up in CAD, print 1:1, use that as a template, attach it to the wood and then center drill the hole locations with the small diameter center drill. The hole locations will all be within .005” if you’re careful.
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
Just to give you an idea of the drill body diameter vs the drill point size, it usually runs around 2.4:1.
#1 = 1/8” body = .046” hole dia
#2 = 3/16” body = .078” hole dia
#3 = 1/4” body = .109” hole dia
#4 = 5/16” body = .125” hole dia
#5 = 7/16” body = .187” hole dia
As I mentioned, these are 60º cobalt while HSS is standard but TiN coated and TiAlN coated HSS and solid carbide are also options. Optional angles are both 82º and 90º.
And finally here’s a photo of a standard length #4 body (5/16” diameter) center drill vs a 4" long length #4 body center drill usually referred to as a #4 x 4. This is a 4” version and they’re offered in lengths up to 8” long to reach into difficult areas.
If you’re interested in just trying one for your projects, I’d suggest the #4 is probably my most used size and that’d be a good way to evaluate its usefulness
[attachimg=3]
Attachments
batmanimal
Member
- Joined
- Jan 17, 2022
- Messages
- 137
I purchased a small 7.5” multi material chop saw called the “Evolution Rage 4” because I’m building an outdoor kitchen and need to cut steel tubes.
Why they named this cute little thing like it’s a horror movie, I do not know, but I am looking forward to trying it. It was $111 USD and includes a decent blade.
[attachimg=1]
I have not had time to build or do anything enjoyable, as most of my free time the last two weeks has been spent troubleshooting my septic system, which really has been a bit of a horror movie!
Why they named this cute little thing like it’s a horror movie, I do not know, but I am looking forward to trying it. It was $111 USD and includes a decent blade.
[attachimg=1]
I have not had time to build or do anything enjoyable, as most of my free time the last two weeks has been spent troubleshooting my septic system, which really has been a bit of a horror movie!
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- Joined
- Feb 22, 2016
- Messages
- 3,014
Didn't buy it today, but it finally showed up yesterday evening.
Veritas #05P2901 Scraping Plane.
Ordered on 8/30/2021, arrived 4/01/22
Took the long way I guess but it's finally here.
I had wanted this for the sewing table project I was building last Fall. I thought I had ordered far enough in advance to be sure it would arrive before the project progressed to the point where I would need it. But COVID and the global shipping debacle shot that theory full of holes. I ended up using a my trusty old Disston 3x5 card scraper which worked fine.
After 7 months of waiting I was just about to cancel the order when I got the shipping notice. Not Lee Valleys' fault I understand but I've made it this long without one so I figured I probably don't need one to begin with. I had been watching for a clean old Stanley to show up on Patrick Leach's monthly tool list, but all the planes that showed up and were in acceptable condition (to me) were more than the cost of a new Veritas so that's the route I went as I wanted a worker not a museum piece.
Veritas #05P2901 Scraping Plane.
Ordered on 8/30/2021, arrived 4/01/22
Took the long way I guess but it's finally here.
I had wanted this for the sewing table project I was building last Fall. I thought I had ordered far enough in advance to be sure it would arrive before the project progressed to the point where I would need it. But COVID and the global shipping debacle shot that theory full of holes. I ended up using a my trusty old Disston 3x5 card scraper which worked fine.
After 7 months of waiting I was just about to cancel the order when I got the shipping notice. Not Lee Valleys' fault I understand but I've made it this long without one so I figured I probably don't need one to begin with. I had been watching for a clean old Stanley to show up on Patrick Leach's monthly tool list, but all the planes that showed up and were in acceptable condition (to me) were more than the cost of a new Veritas so that's the route I went as I wanted a worker not a museum piece.
notenoughcash
Member
- Joined
- Feb 10, 2020
- Messages
- 243
ammo bit holder for my dtd154. lifesaver
Remodeling our 1999 Airsteam Bambi, needed tools to redo PEX lines. I bought the copper clamping breaker, new clamping rings, clamping tool and short lengths of red and white pipe. All new to me, been soldering copper for 50 years, including my house done 35+ years ago.
Packard
Member
batmanimal said:
I considered that type of cutoff saw, but it seemed to create too much dust. The small portable band saw I bought keeps the shop cleaner. It did cost more though.
I got it from Northern Tool: https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200888098_200888098
Another advantage (which I never had occasion to use) is that it can continue to make a cut without an operator. If you are cutting, for instance 2" thick solid bar, then you can start the cut and it will continue to make the cut without intervention. You do need to shut it off eventually.
It is also considerably quieter. I see it is now about $400.00 so a lot more expensive.
Just got WIHA 36689 ErgoStar Torx Ball End and Standard L-Key Set T5-T45 in Automatic Fast Open Holder, 13-Piece delivered. After 51 years of making do with whatever tools I could find local, I've become addicted to Festool, Wera, Wiha, Metabo, Fein, Flex etc. My kids are going to have the tool sale of the century.
Cheese
Member
I've been without my main air compressor for the last 2 years because of the unloader valve going wonky. I have a work-around because I have some backup but the sheer inconvenience finally got to me. And besides, locating an unloader valve for a 50+ year old air compressor doesn't have the same fun factor that locating a part for a 50 year old car/motorcycle/gun has.
I typically don't use Zoro.com because their prices are usually 2x or greater than anyone else. However they do have a really great selection of valves and the prices for these items seem to be in-line with other retailers.
https://www.zoro.com/cdi-control-devices-unloader-check-valve-38-in-ca12-1a/i/G1747995/
However, the best part was that the new valve is exactly the same as the original valve, no re-plumbing the compressor or adding adapters, this is truly a plug n play item. Who'd have thunk? Very [cool]
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
[attachimg=3]
I typically don't use Zoro.com because their prices are usually 2x or greater than anyone else. However they do have a really great selection of valves and the prices for these items seem to be in-line with other retailers.
https://www.zoro.com/cdi-control-devices-unloader-check-valve-38-in-ca12-1a/i/G1747995/
However, the best part was that the new valve is exactly the same as the original valve, no re-plumbing the compressor or adding adapters, this is truly a plug n play item. Who'd have thunk? Very [cool]
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
[attachimg=3]
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On demand hot water heater / gas line topichttps://www.festoolownersgroup.com/...r-projects/on-demand-hot-water-and-gas-lines/
Seth
Seth
This arrived today: [attachimg=1]
A set of stabila replacement leds for my festool 1400 level (The slideswitches had become too loose) Seems like a good upgrade, they now have a pushbutton instead of the sliding button; AND they are powered by 1 AAA battery, instead of 2 CR2016's.
Replacement inserts for the colliflower slide & snap ZCI, these are also different from the original, a bit stiffer and translucent material, looks 3d printed.
Fastcap knucklebender hinge adjustment wrench
Scangrip nova R rechargeable worklight. (someone stole my old syslite a few months ago, I already had a cheaper backup worklight, so I haven't replaced the syslite yet, if I like this scangrip, and it makes me miss it less, I might not get another syslite)
A set of stabila replacement leds for my festool 1400 level (The slideswitches had become too loose) Seems like a good upgrade, they now have a pushbutton instead of the sliding button; AND they are powered by 1 AAA battery, instead of 2 CR2016's.
Replacement inserts for the colliflower slide & snap ZCI, these are also different from the original, a bit stiffer and translucent material, looks 3d printed.
Fastcap knucklebender hinge adjustment wrench
Scangrip nova R rechargeable worklight. (someone stole my old syslite a few months ago, I already had a cheaper backup worklight, so I haven't replaced the syslite yet, if I like this scangrip, and it makes me miss it less, I might not get another syslite)
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I haven't used it yet, but you can also use with the chargecable plugged in, like the syslite (it just won't take festool batteries as extra juice like the syslite) it has 5 brightness levels, and hours indication on the back which says 10 hrs at 10%, 5 at 25%, 3 at 50%, and 1 at 75 and 100%
