What - non Festool - tool / workshop related gizmo/stuff did you buy today?

  • Thread starter Thread starter six-point socket
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Cheese said:
six-point socket II said:
I was delighted to see that Stihl recently expanded its range of 10.8/12V cordless gardening tools. I'm running the GTA 26 saw for a couple of years now and couldn't be happier with it. Initially they had the GTA 26 saw and HSA 26 "hedge trimmer/ grass cutter". Never got the HSA 26 because I have a similar tool from Bosch with integrated battery. Sometime ago they came out with a small vacuum (SEA 20), not really what I need. But now they also offer 2 hedge trimmers and a brush cutter. Those are fairly recent additions to their AS system portfolio. HSA 30 (45 cm cut length) hedge trimmer, HSA 40 (50 cm cut length) hedge trimmer, FSA 30 brush cutter. They now also have a 1.5m extension to use the GTA 26 saw "over head".

Be careful Oliver if you decide to purchase the HSA 26...it's underwhelming to say the least. I've been extremely happy with the RMA 510 V mower, the BGA 86 blower and the KMA 135 R KombiMotor, all perform at or above the level of their gas powered equivalents.

I purchased the HSA 26 to trim small rose bushes but that was a fail, I now use it as a small grass cutter for those areas where the string trimmer can't fit or where the string trimmer may cause some damage.  [sad]

Thanks for the heads up! In case my little Bosch gives up, I will have to test the HSA 26 prior to any commitment to buy. Thankfully that won't be a problem with my Stihl dealer. Thanks again!

Used the HSA 40 yesterday and it went through everything I threw at it like a hot knife through butter. Kinda as expected.

Kind regards,
Oliver
 
Crispy said:
Well i paid for it a fortnight ago, but today picked up my brand new Harvey RT-800 router table for my table saw, with free rust.

Its the last 3 words that upset me the most, I dont know whether to complain, or suck it up, but in the mean time, other than wax or wd40, how should i stop it expanding?

I probably should do a post in another section on this and the table saw its self, as i think if i buy anything else it will only be the router fence, and then the company i went through i will never use again, as ive had to chase them every time i purchase stuff...but i guess you get that some times.
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If the table did not come covered with oil, then the blame belongs to the manufacturer.

Cast iron, if left clean, will form iron oxide in less than 8 hours.  Check your rotors on your front brakes some time.  You drive it for 20 miles or so and when you get out of the car the rotors glisten.

But if it is a rainy day, in just a few hours left undriven, the rotors will be covered with a thin layer of iron oxide (rust).

The cleaner the surface is, the faster it will rust.  The rotors are almost perfectly clean of any lubricants after you step on the brakes the first time in the morning.  They get scrubbed clean.

So if the surface of the cast iron table did not feel oily when you took possession of it, then the manufacturer is at fault.  They should have prepped the surface with rust inhibiting oil or a modern version of cosmoline. 

Fine steel wool with oil is probably the best way to clean up small areas.  Large areas should be cleaned with a flat plate with abrasive.  A thick sheet of glass with Emory closet glued on is a cheap alternative.  Glass is generally very flat.  Emory cloth cuts steel reasonably well. 

Back in the 1980s - 90s, I worked for a company that produced millions of galvanized hooks per month for the plastic hanger industry.

One of the retailers wanted black hangers with black hooks.  There was no really viable finish available for the quantities we were using.  The customer decided to go with black oxide plus rust inhibiting oil.  The problem with that was that the oil would soil the garments that hung on them.  So the client decided to go with black oxide plus oil, with most of the oil tumbled off using corn cob media.

When the customer deduced to go with that finish, I said, “There is rarely a 100% guarantee on anything, especially in our industry.  But I will give a 100% guarantee that these hooks will rust.”

The owner of the company I worked for was furious with me.  He thought I was trying to kill the deal.  But 6 months later he was in a better mood when all the hooks were rusting and we were not responsible for the result.

In the meantime we worked with a vendor to create a new finish that became the industry standard.

But if the table seemed clean when it arrived, then it was ripe for corrosion.
 
So, towards the backend of last year, my mother died. She got to 90 years old, travelled all over the world, was driving her own car til two days before her death and still lived in the house she loved til the end so she did alright as far as I saw it.
She didn't leave much money cos she enjoyed her life with it which I'm also fine wih
The silver block plane (Veritas NX60) in Nickle Resist iron is pretty much what I bought with the sum total of the money I got in my sixth share (big family) of that money.
It's nice but given the choice I'd rather she were still alive and healthy but we don't get that option.
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I have the Veritas Low Angle Blockplane which I bought when my father died ao there's some kind of symmetry to that.
I've been using that one at work for years now so its not anything like as neat looking. Great plane though.

 
[member=51145]demographic[/member]  I hope you continue to think of them often each time you use them!  When my Dad passed last year my step mother asked if I wanted his old riding mower he used. I took it, fired the lawn service, and spend 3 hours a week cutting my 2 acres with it.  A great time for reflection and memories.
 
Patiently awaiting a Zeta P2.  Thanks Santa!  Any good resources other than the official instructional videos?  Specifically looking for best practices and gotchas.
 
woodferret said:
Patiently awaiting a Zeta P2.  Thanks Santa!  Any good resources other than the official instructional videos?  Specifically looking for best practices and gotchas.

Honestly, that's about all I've found out there.  You can watch some of Peter Millard's 10-minute Workshop videos, some of which show that he's keen on the device, and others where he's frustrated with it, but if you know how to use a Domino, the official videos should be enough to get you up to speed the rest of the way.

The fence is a little bit different inasmuch as there is a capture design for the narrow point of a 45 degree angle, but that's about it.

That said, if anyone else has suggested videos, I wouldn't mind seeing them.

Enjoy!
 
woodferret said:
Patiently awaiting a Zeta P2.  Thanks Santa!  Any good resources other than the official instructional videos?  Specifically looking for best practices and gotchas.

Congrat's on the tool, I can't believe how amazing it is. After using mine a real lot over the holidays I've come to the conclusion that while the DF700 is the bee's knee's for making doors and panels, I think the Zeta is actually a superior tool. It's just astounding what you can accomplish with it.

Honestly the videos made by Lamello are really the best around and show the simplicity of using the tool, Toolsvision and Colonial Saw's Youtube channel have a stack of videos which are mostly the ones made by Lamello.

This one on Colonial Saw's channel is of note though, it shows the incredibly handy 18/10 trick with using a 4mm deeper offset for the Tenso, allowing you to use a P10 mating connector in thin stock:


Bear in mind you can use the P14 Clamex as normal along with the P10 mating connector just fine, it's designed to fit either without needing an offset.

Insider Carpentry has a couple of really interesting videos showing why he sprung for it, and the modern wall slat install he bought it for, and Guy's Shop has an interesting video of a mid century modern media console he built with the Zeta.
 
Just checking in to report that I also drank the Zeta P2 Kool-Aid today [big grin]

It joins the Hilti SR4-A22, the Paslode IM65A, the Trend T8/WRT and the Makita PT354DZ - tools which have all been bought over the years specifically for one job, but which have all stayed because a few days in, I couldn't imagine how I'd ever managed without them. In this case, it's for a complex upcoming library shelving build. Tenso connectors will be a no-brainer for it.

FYI - the in-progress sash-beaded windows will likely be the subject of an upcoming 'Member Projects' post. It's my current job - and one with an interesting historical back story.

Kevin

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luvmytoolz said:
Bear in mind you can use the P14 Clamex as normal along with the P10 mating connector just fine, it's designed to fit either without needing an offset.

Thanks for the reminder on that.  I recall seeing it pass by real quick on one of the info/powerpoints, but keeps slipping my mind.  The stick-out on the 18/10 video just feels wrong to me.  :D
 
woodbutcherbower said:
Just checking in to report that I also drank the Zeta P2 Kool-Aid today [big grin]

It joins the Hilti SR4-A22, the Paslode IM65A, the Trend T8/WRT and the Makita PT354DZ - tools which have all been bought over the years specifically for one job, but which have all stayed because a few days in, I couldn't imagine how I'd ever managed without them. In this case, it's for a complex upcoming library shelving build. Tenso connectors will be a no-brainer for it.

FYI - the in-progress sash-beaded windows will likely be the subject of an upcoming 'Member Projects' post. It's my current job - and one with an interesting historical back story.

Kevin

Congrat's, you'll absolutely love it and will likely find uses for it that never occurred to you before!

Did you spring for the accessory kit? If not, I'd highly recommend at least buying the large flexible 4mm hex screwdriver that also comes with the accessory kit, it is superb and makes using Clamex's so much better! For us here it's $75, I'm actually thinking of buying one for a spare just in case, as it's so good.
 
[member=75933]luvmytoolz[/member] Not yet. I’ll get my current job out of the way, and then take time out to learn how to get the best out of the tool. As said - Tensos will be my first priority.
 
A rather larger purchase, my new SCM FS-52es jointer/planer arrived last week.

I started off with a Hammer A3-41 which was a great starter machine, but as I started taking on larger projects I quickly found that I was pushing the machine beyond its intended scope. My intention was to replace it was separates, but when the A 951 L jointer arrived I immediately recognized that while I could financially afford separates, my relatively small shop size dictated a combo machine. Fortunately, I was able to sell the A 951 L to a local hardwood dealer for nearly what I paid for it, so I really lucked out there.

After my first week working with the machine, I've been quite happy with it. If there's interest, I'll write up a more thorough review after I've had a chance to use the machine for a few months, but I'll list some initial impressions below:

-- I opted for the Tersa cutterblock instead of the spiral, and really appreciate the improved quality of cut. I'm primarily using the HSS knives for softwoods, and the M+ knives for domestic hardwoods. Knife change takes roughly a minute or so.
-- SCM jointers in North America ship with a "pork chop"-style guard which I simply despise. Perhaps they work ok on smaller jointers, but a pork-chop guard on a 520mm is hilariously gigantic, and is so heavy that the spring can't swing the guard closed unless I give it a little help with my hip. I have a Suvamatic guard on order with Scott & Sargent, so I'll gave to grit my teeth for a month or so while I wait for an effective guard to arrive.
-- Change-over time from jointer/thicknesser takes ~15 seconds, not including adjusting thicknesser table position. Once the machine is set up as a thicknesser, going from the lowest table position of ~240mm to 3mm takes ~30 seconds, so the whole operation takes less than a minute.
-- Adjustment of the fence is a one-hand, fingertip affair. That is to say, the fence slides very smoothly.
-- Lifting the massive jointer beds is also a one-handed operation.
-- The jointer beds are nearly 2.3m long, plenty for most needs but I'll probably put some Aigner bars on them for jointing longer door stiles.
-- I appreciate the choice of four feed speeds on the thicknesser (5-8-12-16 m/minute). 16m/min is awesome for initial passes, while 5m/min leaves a surface significantly better than the Silent Power cutterblock I was accustomed to. In daily practice, I find myself mostly using the 8m/min and 12m/min speeds.
-- I was surprised that the machine only has a 120mm dust port, as the comparably sized Felder machines come with 140mm ports. That being said, in use the 120mm port seems correctly sized as there are few if any errant chips that escape. I'm using a RL-160 extractor, with 6" Nordfab trunks, narrowing to a 5" flex line at the machine.

Not much else to say at the moment. I did look at the SCM FS-7, but it had a lot of bells/whistles for which I would worry about sourcing parts. A 520mm jointer is comically large and more than I need, but the 520mm thicknesser is necessary for some of my larger door rails, which therefore dictated a 520mm combo as opposed to the more common 410mm machines.

Hopefully the above is helpful, happy to write up a more detailed review in a few months if there's interest. Back to making sawdust!

 
luvmytoolz said:
woodbutcherbower said:
Just checking in to report that I also drank the Zeta P2 Kool-Aid today [big grin]

It joins the Hilti SR4-A22, the Paslode IM65A, the Trend T8/WRT and the Makita PT354DZ - tools which have all been bought over the years specifically for one job, but which have all stayed because a few days in, I couldn't imagine how I'd ever managed without them. In this case, it's for a complex upcoming library shelving build. Tenso connectors will be a no-brainer for it.

FYI - the in-progress sash-beaded windows will likely be the subject of an upcoming 'Member Projects' post. It's my current job - and one with an interesting historical back story.

Kevin

Congrat's, you'll absolutely love it and will likely find uses for it that never occurred to you before!

Did you spring for the accessory kit? If not, I'd highly recommend at least buying the large flexible 4mm hex screwdriver that also comes with the accessory kit, it is superb and makes using Clamex's so much better! For us here it's $75, I'm actually thinking of buying one for a spare just in case, as it's so good.

In case anyone else is wondering, $47 in the States.

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ChuckS said:
luvmytoolz said:
Not Festool made but Festool related, I bought a set of Domino tenon cutters, and they look sensational!

Can't wait to machine some extra wide tenons with these for the wide settings on the 500 and 700.

5mm, 6mm, 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, and 14mm cutters, around $180AUD shipped from this crowd:
https://www.findbuytool.com/collections/domino-router-cutters

Honestly, not having heard about this online store, I wouldn't have felt confident doing business with it. So thanks to you sharing your purchase, I bought a 4mm cutter as a backup. It cost less than half of the Festool's price even after paying $12 for shipping (I found the discount code on Google):

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The 4mm cutter arrived, and I gave it a quick spin on the hardwood and softwood.

Conclusion: the cutter and the original Festool cutter performed almost the same with one slight difference: the tenon was super-tight when housed in a Festool cutter milled mortise (you can't pull out the tenon with your fingers) vs tight in an after-market cutter milled mortise. That means I can use regular4mm tenons for dry-fitting purposes.

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Mortises cut by the Festool cutter are on the right:
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I have had no experience with the Amana DF cutters to make an observation on Amana bits.
 

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I have never seen that flex driver and I'm not so sure I get it? What is the point?
I like the one that comes in the box, when you buy the Clamex themselves. It's a 90 degree hex-key style with a much longer leg on the short side. This gives you knuckle space to turn it.

[member=57948]ChuckS[/member] I have been using the Amana cutters for quite a while. There is no discernable difference in how thy cut/fit, etc.
 
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