What - non Festool - tool / workshop related gizmo/stuff did you buy today?

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woodferret said:
smorgasbord said:
The Bosch 1613 has been discontinued for several years now. The 1617 appears to be its replacement, but that's not just a larger, more powerful and heavier router, it doesn't have the nifty micro-depth-adjust I described.

Bosch MRP23EVS

Thanks - somehow I hadn't seen that router until directly searching for it. Good to know they still make routers with that micro-adjust depth knob. When/If my 1613 dies, I'll have to evaluate against the current Festool offerings.
 
smorgasbord said:
woodferret said:
smorgasbord said:
The Bosch 1613 has been discontinued for several years now. The 1617 appears to be its replacement, but that's not just a larger, more powerful and heavier router, it doesn't have the nifty micro-depth-adjust I described.

Bosch MRP23EVS

Thanks - somehow I hadn't seen that router until directly searching for it. Good to know they still make routers with that micro-adjust depth knob. When/If my 1613 dies, I'll have to evaluate against the current Festool offerings.

I have to say on the OF2200 I use this feature massively, it is unbelievably handy, and accurate.
 
KCTool had their "Happy Hammer" combo set (Halder Simplex 40 with 5 heads) on sale for the Tool of the Day today, so I pulled the trigger on that.  I missed the "in stock" by about 5 minutes (was in stock when I visited, out of stock by the time I checked out), so I won't have it for another month or so, but I'm looking forward to it when it arrives.
 
My box of goodness that I ordered from CSP Tools a few weeks back arrived!

I absolutely love using the big spiral insert cutter I got off them some time back and it's streamlined how I joint and trim tremendously, but there's times when a shorter one would be handier and a little less load on routers smaller than the OF2200, so I had them make me a couple of the spiral insert cutters, but one with the bearing at the top and a second with the bearing at the bottom.

I also got 2 each of the corner and plain carbide insert scrapers, along with 10 spare blades of each.

The one I'm really excited to try though is the 1/4" shank vee insert cutter, I struggle with a lot of chipout on the CNC with some timbers, so I'm hoping this might do the trick!

For those who are curious, delivery was 1.5 weeks from shipping, and the total cost with Paypal's hit and conversion was $525AUD.
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A pair of cam/miter clamps, from Fast Hinge (Australia) - a copy of the original, made in the USA 'Clam Clamps'. Work very well and put a lot of pressure on the join, as long as you don't mind the pin marks on the outside edges.

A set of fences for my Kapex, from Custom Fabricating Solutions, in the US. Went for the 'notched' version, so I can still tilt the saw without moving them out the way. Hopefully arrive next week.

New multi-line laser, from Imex. Green line. Already have a cross line Hilti, which is great for cabinet installs, but needed one that could square up wall set outs on the floor and ceiling, for a bathroom I'm working on. Was going to keep it in a dedicated Systainer, but you can't really beat the case it came in.
 
A very small purchase, but highly recommended: Triple antibiotic ointment.

I woke one morning last week, and a cut (or dry chapped break in my skin) near my cuticle was painful, swollen, warm to the touch and red/pink in color. 

My self-diagnosis was that it was infected.

I had a tube of Triple Antibiotic Ointment (Bacitracin, Neomycin, Polymyxin) with an expiration date of 2018.  Probably still good and I applied it.  Later that morning I bought a new tube of the stuff (good for another 3 years).  Also some flexible cloth bandaids.

The cloth bandages are much more durable than the vinyl ones.

At any rate I replaced the bandage with the new stuff.  And applied it again before going to sleep.  The following morning all the symptoms were gone.  Used it fore one more day to be sure.

That last tube is probably 5 - 8 years old.  It probably was still good.  I suggest keeping a tube in the shop.  But if you are a member of Costco, or Sam’s Club, skip the package with 4 tubes. I can’t imagine using that much in 5 years.

 
Packard said:
A very small purchase, but highly recommended: Triple antibiotic ointment.

It's a sign we're all getting on when ointments are a topic on the tool forums! ;-)
 
luvmytoolz said:
It's a sign we're all getting on when ointments are a topic on the tool forums! ;-)

The title says it all...a sign of the times.  [big grin]

FWIW... Neosporin has always worked for me.
 
luvmytoolz said:
It's a sign we're all getting on when ointments are a topic on the tool forums! ;-)

If it is any consolation, my circus friends (20s) and I (def not 20s) all have it in our training bag. When a silk burn is 3"x8" and rope abrasion is 12"x2", you go through it even in CostCo quantities. I'm always impressed at how it prevents scabbing and heals quickly. If you forget to put it on, it's all scabby and takes an extra week to pass...  [crying]
 
In the shop, still using the method dad taught me to patch up small leaks: a piece of paper towel and whatever tape is handy, often black electrical. His purpose was mainly to avoid making a mess on tools and materials, and get back to work. I found green masking tape works better.

I keep a spray bottle of 90+ IPA around for other stuff, so I'll apply some first. Dad also passed along the rapid coagulation gene, which is handy.

RMW

 
As 44 year glazier, bleeding is an occupational reality. I have plenty of scars to attest to that. Neosporin and vasoline are musts in my first aid kit.  A plus to glass cuts is that they are very clean are I heal rapidly despite bleeding profusely at first.  Usually paper towel and pressure, rinsed with water and bandage with pressure.
 
luvmytoolz said:
[quote author [=Packard link=topic=47061.msg712796#msg712796 date=1712269770]
A very small purchase, but highly recommended: Triple antibiotic ointment.

It's a sign we're all getting on when ointments are a topic on the tool forums! ;-)
[/quote]

Ah, yeah.  If it gets infected, just lop it off.  You’ve got 9 spares.
 
Working with plastic laminate for the last 20+ years, has made me quite familiar with the process of some kind of injury clean up. It always seems best to do it quickly. If you can get it clean and covered, healing is much faster. There are probably 6-8 first aid kits around the shop. Though I'm sure it's not the best idea, I have poured lacquer thinner over small cuts, better than nothing, but I wouldn't recommend it.

Back on topic

I got a small handful of DIN894 wrenches. They seem like odd sizes, but perfect for what I need. I got 10, 13, 22, and 24mm. The 13mm and 22mm can replace the stamped sheet metal wrenches for the Makita trim routers. I'm going to have to thin out the 13mm a little, to get it to fit the slot in the shank though. The 24mm can replace the automotive combo wrench I use with my Triton router. The 10mm is just simply "because" it's 10mm.
I would have liked to get a few more, but these were just left overs, from an auction.
 

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Crazyraceguy said:
Working with plastic laminate for the last 20+ years, has made me quite familiar with the process of some kind of injury clean up. It always seems best to do it quickly. If you can get it clean and covered, healing is much faster.

Has anyone else tried the new "hydrocolloid" bandages?
https://www.healthline.com/health/what-is-in-hydrocolloid-bandages

I've found them to be just about magical for certain injuries --- I just wish that they could be carried around more easily --- the one which I tried to carry around in a small leather case where I carry a bandage or two was unusable when I actually needed it.
 
That reads like the patch I had from the emergency room.  As I recall I needed a prescription to buy more.  But it grafted itself to the wound and the doctor said to keep it covered until it fell off on its own.

There was a significant chunk of skin that got torn away and they did not want to suture that large of a gap.
 
Crazyraceguy said:
I have poured lacquer thinner over small cuts, better than nothing, but I wouldn't recommend it.

Back on topic
Now off topic:  When we cut ourselves on the farm, we used kerosene. It would stop bleeding right away and made the healing less sore.  However, I do remember my dad using turpentine on a dog's wound once and that did not go well. 

Either was better than what my grandfather experienced in the trenches in WW1.  He said they would urinate on wounds to keep the infection down. 
 
Packard said:
luvmytoolz said:
[quote author [=Packard link=topic=47061.msg712796#msg712796 date=1712269770]
A very small purchase, but highly recommended: Triple antibiotic ointment.

It's a sign we're all getting on when ointments are a topic on the tool forums! ;-)

Ah, yeah.  If it gets infected, just lop it off.  You’ve got 9 spares.
[/quote]

8 in my case!
 
Yardbird said:
Crazyraceguy said:
I have poured lacquer thinner over small cuts, better than nothing, but I wouldn't recommend it.

Back on topic
Now off topic:  When we cut ourselves on the farm, we used kerosene. It would stop bleeding right away and made the healing less sore.  However, I do remember my dad using turpentine on a dog's wound once and that did not go well. 

Either was better than what my grandfather experienced in the trenches in WW1.  He said they would urinate on wounds to keep the infection down.

Worked on an art project in New Mexico   back in the late ‘70s and some of the old timers used turpentine on themselves.
 
I've used lacquer thinner or denatured alcohol more times than I'm willing to admit, but I'm from the old-school of, "If it burns, it's working". They still used Merthiolate, when I was a kid. That stuff is illegal now, after the ban on Mercury, which also took out the original form of Mercurochrome. Apparently, there is a Mercury-free version that is still in use today, but I have no experience with it.
You could always be sure that the original injury was less painful than the treatment was going to be....
That stuff burned like fire, especially on wounds with more surface area, scrapes rather than cuts.
 
I've been curious to try a Blue Spruce bench chisel for a while now. They did what I consider was a no-brainer, they polish the back of the chisel to a mirror surface and provide the chisel already sharpened with a primary bevel and a 5º micro bevel. I've wondered for over 20 years why manufacturers didn't provide that service as part of their product?
It's the equivalent of purchasing a new car and having it delivered to you with the plastic still on the seats, the cardboard still on the carpets and the various stickers and wax stick markings still on the windows.  [sad]

Here's a comparison between a Pfeil that I've always used and the Blue Spruce...notice the price I paid for the Pfeil, I paid $129.99 for the Blue Spruce.
The BS chisel blade comes completely coated in a Dip Seal like material. The blade is A2 tool steel, double tempered and then cryogenically hardened.
The top of the Pfeil blade appears to have a roughness value of about Ra 125 µ-in, while the BS blade is around 8 µ-in, maybe a little bit less.

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However, the bottom of the blade is where the real difference comes in. The BS is beautifully polished, it's pretty amazing. Here are a couple of bottom photos to compare. Now I need a project to try it out on.

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