What - non Festool - tool / workshop related gizmo/stuff did you buy today?

[nclemmons]

I bought this Milwaukee battery operated band file.  It's really handy for close places or even sanding round stock that has been damaged by Allen screws that hold a bearing in place.
https://www.toolnut.com/milwaukee-m...ithium-high-output-cp-2-5ah-battery-pack.html

 

[rmwarren]

I bought this Milwaukee battery operated band file.  It's really handy for close places or even sanding round stock that has been damaged by Allen screws that hold a bearing in place.
https://www.toolnut.com/milwaukee-m...ithium-high-output-cp-2-5ah-battery-pack.html

Neil, I grabbed one of those last year, great tool. Dragged my feet for years because most options were the size of a 5" grinder & corded when the working area is ~ a couple square inches. Milwaukee saved the day when they released this one.

Their little M12 die grinder is also a great tool to have around.

RMW

 

[rst]

Despite owning three corded Milwaukee bandfiles, the M12 version is great,  I no longer have any corded tools in my service van.  I'm capable of locksmith, commercial glazing, commercial painting, finishing, plastic fabrication and fine woodworking.  Pretty much all of these trades are now capable of cordless. I use the bandfile for glass and aluminum work,  Silicone carbide for glass and 3M metalflex for aluminum locksmithing.  My only disappointment is that the corded Milwaukees will use Dynafile's arms that the corded versions can utilize.  Just today I used a cordless Metabo HPT to pattern rout two 54" diameter patio table replacements.

 

[DynaGlide]

Fuji T70 gun and 2qt pressure pot and a spray booth... and a blower. Apparently I hate money.

 

[rst]

Dynaglide, while you can't take any of it with you when you pass, certain things make life worthwhile, even if your wife will never understand.

 

[rmwarren]

you can't take any of it with you when you pass, certain things make life worthwhile

Slow clap emoji whatever that is. Dum Vivimus, Vivamus.

RMW

 

[Cheese]

Hey [member=44099]Cheese[/member] what is this bandfile?

Thanks Ron

[attachimg=1]

Hey Ron [member=3192]rvieceli[/member] , that's a Milwaukee 14-46-0975 Bandfile head mounted on a Milwaukee RA grinder. At the time these were released, the only available drive mechanism was a traditional corded tool. They work well but as others have noted, a full size 4-1/2" or 5" RA grinder married to a small abrasive belt is clumsy.

If purchasing one today, I'd also go with the Milwaukee M12 version 2482-20 which uses a 1/2" x 18" belt. Besides, with a battery driven model, when used on metals, you lessen the chance of putting too much heat into the Scotch-Brite belt. Too much heat softens the adhesive splice which is followed by a loud pop as the belt splice gives way.  [sad]

Festool even offered their own version conveniently mounted to a RAS.  [smile]

[attachimg=1]

 

[Michael Kellough]

A few years ago I bought the Makita 3/8 x 21” band file. There must have been a special promotion at the time because it is priced about $100 more than I payed.

I like to use 80 grit and put it on slow speed to hollow (back bevel) stuff for a really tight fit. Used with the accessory dust fitting and a vacuum that grit/speed combination works cleanly.

I also like that it can stand upright on the 18v battery.

 

[rvieceli]

[member=44099]Cheese[/member] i thought that might be the case. I picked up the M12 1/2x18 bandfile a while back and love it. The M12 right angle die grinder does a great job with rolocs. I tend to use the M12 straight die grinder with carbide burrs.

Thanks.

Ron

 

[Cheese]

[member=44099]Cheese[/member] i thought that might be the case. I picked up the M12 1/2x18 bandfile a while back and love it. The M12 right angle die grinder does a great job with rolocs. I tend to use the M12 straight die grinder with carbide burrs.

Thanks.

Ron

Question for you Ron...I've always used Ingersoll Rand or Chicago Pneumatic air grinders for 3M Roloc discs, how would you categorize the difference in performance between the Milwaukee M12 cordless and the pneumatic grinders?

Also, what materials do you use the die grinder with the carbide burrs on?

 

[rmwarren]

how would you categorize the difference in performance between the Milwaukee M12 cordless and the pneumatic grinders?

[member=44099]Cheese[/member] it's not too hard to stall the M12 die grinder. Seems to have an overload circuit that kicks in whenever I put too much pressure on it. Otherwise it's a great tool.

RMW

 

[Cheese]

It's not too hard to stall the M12 die grinder. Seems to have an overload circuit that kicks in whenever I put too much pressure on it. Otherwise it's a great tool.

RMW

Same question to you Richard...on what materials do you use the die grinder and carbide burrs?

 

[rvieceli]

[member=44099]Cheese[/member] the M12 right angle die grinder is a great little tool. But it can get bogged down and just stop. Sometimes I think it’s thermal other times I think it’s pressure. Still use it just about every piece. It has a max speed setting but you can feather the trigger.

For the burrs and the straight die grinder I use it to grind welds, steel and wood. I generally use some imported sets and different shapes.  With the burrs you can usually hit just the area you want grind down without impacting anything else. I’ll also use the straight one with either a wire wheel or a nylon abrasive wheel.

Ron

 

[Crazyraceguy]

how would you categorize the difference in performance between the Milwaukee M12 cordless and the pneumatic grinders?

[member=44099]Cheese[/member] it's not too hard to stall the M12 die grinder. Seems to have an overload circuit that kicks in whenever I put too much pressure on it. Otherwise it's a great tool.

RMW

There is a similar problem with the pneumatics. When you throttle them back to reduce the speed, they have near-zero torque. Very easy to stall. Full speed is not so bad in metal, especially steel, but with wood or plastics......nope.

 

[rmwarren]

It's not too hard to stall the M12 die grinder. Seems to have an overload circuit that kicks in whenever I put too much pressure on it. Otherwise it's a great tool.

RMW

Same question to you Richard...on what materials do you use the die grinder and carbide burrs?

Cheese I use the right angle die grinder with roloc flap disks, grinding disks and non woven. Cleaning steel and AL, grinding sanding etc. I don't use burrs in it. The flat grinding disks also work on wood without burning if they are new or coarse enough.

Seperately I have the M12 straight die grinder and sometimes do use carbide burrs in it, like Ron on steel and AL and knocking down welds.

I think there are 3 speed settings but I've only ever used the lowest, not sure why I'd need anything faster.

RMW

 

[rmwarren]

how would you categorize the difference in performance between the Milwaukee M12 cordless and the pneumatic grinders?

[member=44099]Cheese[/member] it's not too hard to stall the M12 die grinder. Seems to have an overload circuit that kicks in whenever I put too much pressure on it. Otherwise it's a great tool.

RMW

There is a similar problem with the pneumatics. When you throttle them back to reduce the speed, they have near-zero torque. Very easy to stall. Full speed is not so bad in metal, especially steel, but with wood or plastics......nope.

I was unaware of that, haven't used pneumatic tools in many years as I don't have access to a good air supply. A big central compressor is really nice to have around.

RMW

 

[Cheese]

Well guys, that was educational... [smile]  Thanks Ron and Richard.

It seems to me the issues I have with the pneumatic grinders/sanders are the same issues that are common to the Milwaukee M12 tools.  [mad]  That's annoying except you've at least removed the air hose which is a huge bonus round.

It's always been a difficult task to modulate the air flow coming into the grinder without stalling the motor.

I wanted to trade pneumatic for cordless but it doesn't seem like we're there yet.

 

[luvmytoolz]

After buying the Mirka AROS-B 5.0mm sander to help with tricky spots, I loved it so much I got the 3.0mm AOS-B sander to finish the finer grits. The board below used to take hours of hand sanding through the grits to get it to the levbel I wanted, now I do it in no time with the Mirka's. They aren't cheap but the time they save and the end result is just phenomenal!

[attachimg=2]

 

[Mini Me]

Well guys, that was educational... [smile]  Thanks Ron and Richard.

It seems to me the issues I have with the pneumatic grinders/sanders are the same issues that are common to the Milwaukee M12 tools.  [mad]  That's annoying except you've at least removed the air hose which is a huge bonus round.

It's always been a difficult task to modulate the air flow coming into the grinder without stalling the motor.

I wanted to trade pneumatic for cordless but it doesn't seem like we're there yet.

What size airline are you using? I hooked one up to a 1/4" line and it did the same thing and looking back I think the airline was too small. Die grinders need a lot of air and a small line will most likely not be able to flow the needed volume.

 

[Packard]

Well guys, that was educational... [smile]  Thanks Ron and Richard.

It seems to me the issues I have with the pneumatic grinders/sanders are the same issues that are common to the Milwaukee M12 tools.  [mad]  That's annoying except you've at least removed the air hose which is a huge bonus round.

It's always been a difficult task to modulate the air flow coming into the grinder without stalling the motor.

I wanted to trade pneumatic for cordless but it doesn't seem like we're there yet.

What size airline are you using? I hooked one up to a 1/4" line and it did the same thing and looking back I think the airline was too small. Die grinders need a lot of air and a small line will most likely not be able to flow the needed volume.

And what size compressor does he have.  The device should call out the CFM requirements.  Most vendors make a big deal about PSI, but for some devices the CFM is more important.  You can mitigate a marginal CFM compressor by adding a large holding tank, but it may result in the compressor running longer times than it was intended.