What - non Festool - tool / workshop related gizmo/stuff did you buy today?

[Crazyraceguy]

  You can mitigate a marginal CFM compressor by adding a large holding tank, but it may result in the compressor running longer times than it was intended.

That is usually a bad idea. It makes an already undersized motor/pump run outside of its duty cycle, which results in excessive heat. Overrunning the duty cycle of most things is bad enough, but it's worse with air compressors because of what it does to the air. Hot air holds more moisture and as it cools, that water drops out. Water sitting in the tank is not good itself, but it will probably be warm/hot too, so that means the cooling happens in the hose. It comes out through the tools.
Large compressors run less often, cool better (and didn't get as hot in the first place) and are generally better at everything. Not so good on the wallet, can be rather loud, take up space, so it's not all great.

 

[Packard]

  You can mitigate a marginal CFM compressor by adding a large holding tank, but it may result in the compressor running longer times than it was intended.

That is usually a bad idea. It makes an already undersized motor/pump run outside of its duty cycle, which results in excessive heat. Overrunning the duty cycle of most things is bad enough, but it's worse with air compressors because of what it does to the air. Hot air holds more moisture and as it cools, that water drops out. Water sitting in the tank is not good itself, but it will probably be warm/hot too, so that means the cooling happens in the hose. It comes out through the tools.
Large compressors run less often, cool better (and didn't get as hot in the first place) and are generally better at everything. Not so good on the wallet, can be rather loud, take up space, so it's not all great.

I would tend to agree.  If you need the CFMs, then you need a compressor rated for that.  But for occasional use, probably not an issue.

Most home shops, if they have a compressor, it is more likely to be a small pancake unit than a large industrial one. 

Sanders, grinders, paint spray guns, all need a large volume of air.

I did use a palm nailer with my P-C pancake compressor.  The palm nailer called for more CFMs than the P-C compressor was rated for. But each nail took just 5 to 10 seconds to drive home and then a minute or so for the next nail to be ready for the nailer.  So that worked.

But I see that Milwaukee now has a M12 powered palm nailer.  Not lugging the hose around while climbing a ladders sounds like a great idea. 

 

[Cheese]

What size airline are you using? I hooked one up to a 1/4" line and it did the same thing and looking back I think the airline was too small. Die grinders need a lot of air and a small line will most likely not be able to flow the needed volume.

Ya, you're probably right. I've always used both die grinders with a 1/4" diameter coiled hose, kind of like using the Festool sanders with a 22/27 tapered hose. Easy to maneuver in tight places.

Just noticed that both Ingersoll Rand and Chicago Pneumatic recommend 3/8" ID hose whips attached to their sanders/grinders. That's not a difficult problem to solve but it does add a lot of bulk to the end of the air tool...thus the reason for the 1/4" poly line I used previously.

As far as Packard's question goes ...the pneumatic die grinders I have require a range of 3-5 CFM at 90 PSI max. The compressor supplies 9 CFM at 90 PSI. I also typically throttle down the air pressure to 70-80 PSI.

 

[Crispy]

I ordered the complete (in systainer) Parf Mk2 system, and as i couldnt get the complete kit - most of the parf dog kit and systainer also ( this kit wont work out cheaper at the end but with the discount i wont really be behind, and i dont have any 20mm dogs or anything other than the festool clamps)
Carbatec are having a tax time sale, so 10-50% off looots of stuff - the UJK stuff was 10 or 15% down, so almost $100 off the parf kit alone.

Also caved and purchased the USB C LED light module from ebay for the OF1400, it  really wasnt cheap once converted to AUD with GST on the side ( F*** Gery Harvey), but i remember the last time i used it semi free hand in my shed, and this should help a bit.

Forgot to add i originally wanted the parf Kit, the Jessem Mast-R-Lift II, the carbatec fixed router ( around $300 off total ) and festool cordless Midi with 8ah battery kit ( original shipping list)
And after clearing it with the wife ( just to let her know i was going to spend money, and quite a bit of it) the router lift was out of stock,  and so was the new Cordless vacuum kit:/

 

[Mini Me]

What size airline are you using? I hooked one up to a 1/4" line and it did the same thing and looking back I think the airline was too small. Die grinders need a lot of air and a small line will most likely not be able to flow the needed volume.

Ya, you're probably right. I've always used both die grinders with a 1/4" diameter coiled hose, kind of like using the Festool sanders with a 22/27 tapered hose. Easy to maneuver in tight places.

Just noticed that both Ingersoll Rand and Chicago Pneumatic recommend 3/8" ID hose whips attached to their sanders/grinders. That's not a difficult problem to solve but it does add a lot of bulk to the end of the air tool...thus the reason for the 1/4" poly line I used previously.

As far as Packard's question goes ...the pneumatic die grinders I have require a range of 3-5 CFM at 90 PSI max. The compressor supplies 9 CFM at 90 PSI. I also typically throttle down the air pressure to 70-80 PSI.

Hang the 3/8'' hose overhead with a spring holding it from above. I also used a 1/4" curly hose and my compressor is rated at about 15cfm so the hose was the obvious problem but I did not realise it at the time. The larger the hose the less air speed in the hose which means that less water travels with the air. I luckily live in a fairly low humidity area but in high humidity water gets to be a problem when using air hungry devices. 

 

[Bertotti]

No router table here but decided to start one.

 

[Lincoln]

Woodpeckers coping sled and an Incra 'Clean Sweep' dust box.
The sled is an upgrade on my shop built one. I have an Incra plate, with the Clean Sweep rings, so when I saw the under box on clear out I decided to grab it.
Both items were part of an 'end of tax year' promotion.

 

[Holzhacker]

Wiha screwdriver for opening panels
Kneeling pad
Can of bees wax
New gloves
Small Klein canvas bag and lanyard
16 g. Bostitch nailer, wanted the Makita but not in stock

And that's besides the festool stuff

 

[tsmi243]

Wiha screwdriver for opening panels

Got a PN?  I've been meaning to look for something like this

 

[Holzhacker]

Wiha SL/PH2X100 3271
Tried it on a Siemens panel, fits the weird panel cover screws perfect.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

No router table here but decided to start one.

That's a great set-up. All you need is a Taytools fence and it's just like mine.

 

[Coen]

Who uses SL/PH combo? I see SL/PZ combo a lot in electrical, but not SL/PH.

 

[semenza]

Who uses SL/PH combo? I see SL/PZ combo a lot in electrical, but not SL/PH.

  USA. 

  Maybe NA as a whole?

Seth

 

[SoonerFan]

I got a Work Sharp 3000 for chisels and hand planes.  These are being discontinued from what I have read.  Manufacturer going to focus on knife sharpeners.  I decided to make the leap. Hopeful it works out brilliantly like the second VacSys head I got right before these were discontinued.  Sharpened two chisels and so far so good.  I think my grit progression will be 120, 220, 400, 600, 1000 and then strop for dull chisels.  Then just higher grits and strop for fairly but not quite sharp enough stuff. 

PS - the grit progression, using a Sharpie to make sure to sharpen the apex of the edge, removing the burr, stropping etc. sort of reminds me of using a Wicked Edge to sharpen a knife.  I have used a Wicked Edge to sharpen knives for more than a decade.  My EDC is a Benchmade 940 Osborne and it is often polished to a mirrored edge.

 

[ChuckM]

Received this brushless cordless new Milwaukee M18 Fuel Oscillating Multi-Tool & 5.0 h Battery as a gift. I have to find out how it can help me as a woodworker. Home Depot lists it for about $500 Cdn after tax.

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[Packard]

Received this brushless cordless new Milwaukee M18 Fuel Oscillating Multi-Tool & 5.0 h Battery as a gift. I have to find out how it can help me as a woodworker. Home Depot lists it for about $500 Cdn after tax.

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The more you use it, the more you will find uses for it.

I kicks up less dust than a right angle grinder, so try it out on some of those chores.

The last time I used mine was to cut openings for wall outlets.  One indoors in sheet rock, and the other outdoors in cedar shake (cross grain cuts only—a chisel and mallet to split the with-grain cuts).

 

[Mini Me]

I got a Work Sharp 3000 for chisels and hand planes.

I had one and it worked really well with one gotcha. If the underside of the disc is used it wears a track in the disc and the disc has to be changed leaving a lot of the disc untouched. Early on WS sold an overhead attachment which allowed the user to use the whole disc which overcame the problem but for some reason they stopped selling it but many users made their own version. Instead of paper discs diamond discs are available from online suppliers such as Ebay and they do a very good job as well. Stumpy Nubs who I am not a fan of showed a shop made version of the overhead attachment which is most probably the only good thing he has ever done.

 

[luvmytoolz]

Received this brushless cordless new Milwaukee M18 Fuel Oscillating Multi-Tool & 5.0 h Battery as a gift. I have to find out how it can help me as a woodworker. Home Depot lists it for about $500 Cdn after tax.

On renovations it's an absolutely invaluable tool! I used it to cut all the plaster wall sheets from the cornice, trim the panelling edges, do all the cutouts for fittings, etc, etc. It also comes in handy when squaring up any holes, or trim work.

Like the Festool MFK700, even if you only have need for it a few times a year, it does what it does brilliantly!

 

[Cheese]

Gotta like these, Milwaukee produced some of these stainless Sawzall blades 15 years ago but they were never released to the public. I'm not a hunter but I did get my hands on some of these and thought for the right person these blades would be perfect.

Well fast forward...Starrett has now recently reinvented the stainless Sawzall blade for cutting meats. It's not my thing but for the big hunters in the group it is interesting because it can be washed down with water and not rust.

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[Cheese]

But I see that Milwaukee now has a M12 powered palm nailer.  Not lugging the hose around while climbing a ladders sounds like a great idea. 

Packard, that's what I thought also until I actually held one...it's huge. And the reason you need a palm nailer is to get into those tiny little spots that a gun or hammer won't fit into. Here's a comparison between the Milwaukee and a Grip Rite that I use.

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