What - non Festool - tool / workshop related gizmo/stuff did you buy today?

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Made a trip to the local quarry yesterday. Picked up about 240kg of sand for a gardening project.

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Kind regards,
Oliver
 

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And got another gardening tool some time ago. Stihl’s fairly recently (this year) released 10.8V trimmer FSA 30. Another gem in Stihl’s 10.8V line up that I’m very happy with, after having used it extensively over a couple of days. Great thing, the head can be rotated 90 degrees.

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Kind regards,
Oliver
 

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SRSemenza said:
Not something I bought but this looks handy in the 10.8 line.  Convertible head. I saw it just a couple days ago at my dealer. Only noticed it because he had one laid out on the check out counter.

  https://www.stihlusa.com/products/g.../hsa26/?aqid=dd3a3179cff9de7d1c2f130695de01a7

Seth
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Seth, I'd recommend that you test drive that HSA 26 before purchasing it. It works great on box wood hedges and grass but that's about it.  [sad]  I'm a Stihl fan, especially of their battery powered tools but I don't think I'd purchase the HSA 26 again.

 
Cheese said:
SRSemenza said:
Not something I bought but this looks handy in the 10.8 line.  Convertible head. I saw it just a couple days ago at my dealer. Only noticed it because he had one laid out on the check out counter.

  https://www.stihlusa.com/products/g.../hsa26/?aqid=dd3a3179cff9de7d1c2f130695de01a7

Seth
Click to expand...

Seth, I'd recommend that you test drive that HSA 26 before purchasing it. It works great on box wood hedges and grass but that's about it.  [sad]  I'm a Stihl fan, especially of their battery powered tools but I don't think I'd purchase the HSA 26 again.
Click to expand...

Not on my list , just saw it and thought it looked like a nice set up.

Seth
 
Jessem pow-r-tek motor and incra mast-r- lift ii. Will be going in my sawstop router table setup. I've been without a router table for two years.
 
Prime day email arrived with the Bessey rapid clamps discounted down to $43AUD each, so i ordered 3 of them.

Price wise if they are as good as the festool ones it will be worth it.
 
Scored a new condition Adler / Hoffmann lipping planer !!  [big grin]

I do not think it has ever been used. Can't find a speck of anything on it or the blade.  These are discontinued some years ago. I've had a search going for several years to get one or the Lamello Cantex (also discontinued).

Got it for a less than it would have sold for new. I passed on several that had come up due to being beat up and still going for big dollars. This one is a real lucky score.  [smile]

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Seth
 

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[member=1619]SRSemenza[/member] Well done! I've got the Virutex one but I think this is a nicer model, they're incredibly useful!
 
SRSemenza said:
Scored a new condition Adler / Hoffmann lipping planer !!  [big grin]

I do not think it has ever been used. Can't find a speck of anything on it or the blade.  These are discontinued some years ago. I've had a search going for several years to get one or the Lamello Cantex (also discontinued).

Got it for a less than it would have sold for new. I passed on several that had come up due to being beat up and still going for big dollars. This one is a real lucky score.  [smile]

[attachimg=1]

Seth
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I had no idea what a “lipping planer was”.  I found this Lamello video on theirs.  In the off chance others don’t know what a lipping planer is, I link it below.
 
Cheese said:
Over the years we've seen a history of revealing on the FOG where we've purchased items in Europe and then suddenly a few months later, that vendor will no longer sell/ship to the US.  [mad] I'm sure Mafell isn't much different.  [blink]
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Certain FOG members in the UK have purchased tools locally and then accidentally shipped them to the USA. And they also accidentally ordered the 110-volt version (mandatory for use on UK construction sites).

Just sayin’ ….. [big grin]
 
Packard said:
SRSemenza said:
Scored a new condition Adler / Hoffmann lipping planer !!  [big grin]

I do not think it has ever been used. Can't find a speck of anything on it or the blade.  These are discontinued some years ago. I've had a search going for several years to get one or the Lamello Cantex (also discontinued).

Got it for a less than it would have sold for new. I passed on several that had come up due to being beat up and still going for big dollars. This one is a real lucky score.  [smile]

[attachimg=1]

Seth
Click to expand...

I had no idea what a “lipping planer was”.  I found this Lamello video on theirs.  In the off chance others don’t know what a lipping planer is, I link it below.
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Yup, and Gary does a great job of explaining the differences between the brands / models.

Seth
 
Been working on this router table addon for my Sawstop PCS the past few weeks time permitting:

i-RWvdc8p-XL.jpg


i-dB4D89R-XL.jpg


i-v37VXqX-XL.jpg


Only thing left to do is make an adapter to mount the Jessem switch box.
 
Cheese said:
Gotta like these, Milwaukee produced some of these stainless Sawzall blades 15 years ago but they were never released to the public. I'm not a hunter but I did get my hands on some of these and thought for the right person these blades would be perfect.

Well fast forward...Starrett has now recently reinvented the stainless Sawzall blade for cutting meats. It's not my thing but for the big hunters in the group it is interesting because it can be washed down with water and not rust.
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I think Bahco or somebody also made stainless T-shank jigsaw blades that were extra long.  I bought some for cutting steaks off frozen salmon, nearly twenty years ago.  The tooth profile looked a lot like that Starrett blade.  A sawzall blade would be way easier to use, I might have to get one of those blades.
 
Stainless steel would not make a hard-wearing blade.  Save your money; buy the carbon steel versions.

Addendum:  I just did a google search and stainless steel blades are all over the place.  (But still save your money, they will not hold an edge as long as carbon steel blades.)

The myth of stainless steel blades was born in the 1960s.  Gillette came out with the double edge “blue” and then a couple of years later the double edge “super blue”.  These blades lasted longer than the one or two shaves you got from a Gillette “thin” double edged blade. 

And the blades were “captured” in a two door cavity that kept them nice and moist.  So they rusted. 

Then people took to wiping off the blades after use with toilet paper.  And as you might predict, lots of blood was spilled.

As you can see from the pictures below, there is no safe way to hold these blades.  And the blades still rusted.  Wiping the blades dry also wiped away the rust inhibiting oil that was applied to the blades.

images


Gillette knew that they had to come up with a better answer.  The answer was “stainless steel”. They knew that they were compromising edge holding ability by switching to stainless, but they could not continue to sell the blue steel blades. 

By association with razor blades, stainless steel became the go to for sharp knives.  It did not hurt its reputation when the medical profession adopted it for scalpels. 

But stainless steel is more difficult to apply a sharp edge and will not hold the edge as long as a good grade of carbon steel. 

I see that they are selling pricy stainless steel jig saw blades.  I will not be one of their customer for them.

 
Stainless steel is just as vague of a term as Aluminum.
It puts you in a generic ballpark, but means very little. The characteristics of individual alloys can be all over the place, from tough to hard and weldable or not, corrosion resistance, etc
 
Crazyraceguy said:
Stainless steel is just as vague of a term as Aluminum.
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Quite right, buddy. Europe's largest steelmaker (ArcelorMittal) makes stainless in 341 different grades. The only one I ever use is #316 for screws going into super-acidic Accoya wood and countersunk allen-headed machine screws for stuff like exterior glass balustrade panels. I haven't a clue what the other 340 are used for.

Spaceships, probably. 
 
The best stainless steel is not on par with the best carbon steel for tooling, tools, or knives. It is a compromise manufacturers make to attain corrosion resistance.

In many instances, that compromise makes total sense.

For jigsaw blades? It does not.

I guess someone will have to purchase both a carbon steel version and a stainless steel version of otherwise identical blades from one manufacturer and test them.

One blade will cut more lineal feet of lumber than the other.  To be accurate, they should separately test on MDF, particleboard, aluminum and phenolic.

As a parting question:  How many stainless steel hacksaw blades have you used?  How many SS table saw blades?  How many hand plane blades?  How many chisels?

 
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