What speed do you sand at?

[Jeff Hein]

I was sanding some doors last night, and I had my ETS 150 set to a speed of "4". I then started moving it faster/slower and got to wondering what is the proper speed?

I am guessing I will set the sander on "1" for detail work, or if I do not want very fast material removal, but is there a good rule to follow? (i.e. always use speed "6" with 60 grit and large panels)

 

[GPowers]

Also what speed to you set the dust extractor at?

 

[Jesse Cloud]

Two good questions!  I'll bet we get lots of different (and good) answers.

Here's the rule of thumb that works for me:  run it at 6 or whatever the fastest speed is, unless there is a reason not to.  I slow way down for buffing (1 or 2) or tricky detail work, but usually I'm going full speed (I hate sanding, even with Festool).  I go by feel on the more aggressive sanders (RO150 and RAS115), slowing down a notch or two when I get some chatter.

Only time I slow down the vac is when I'm working on something small or light, maybe a thin veneered panel.

But take my advice with a grain of salt - I've been accused of sanding wood like I was sanding rocks. [embarassed]

Curious to see what others do.

 

[fdengel]

Run the extractor on about 1/4 or 1/3 power.

Run the sander at full speed for wood and other wood-like substances unless, as previously posted, there is a specific reason not to.

 

[tbellemare]

My experience is that with a big pad sander, like an ETS 150 or an RO 150, you can run the CT at full power unless you have a real fine grit abrasive.

The way I determine the correct setting for the CT is to run the sander with suction on lowest setting and see how that feels and sounds. Turn up the suction until the sander starts to sound and feel strained. Now you have too much suction. Turn the suction down until it returns to sanding "freely".

I run sanders at full power unless I have a reason not to, like buffing.

Oh, and Jesse, I do also sand rocks...

Tom

 

[jmbfestool]

I always run my rotex on full but vacuum full for wall good for a walls it sucks the Rotex to the wall making it lighter.  I turn the vacuum down when sanding horizontal but I keep it high enough so it keeps the rotex sucked to the surface it keeps it stable more so you stay flat.

jmb

 

[woodguy7]

I find that the vac on full pulls the sander into the work too much.  I usually have it very low, about a 1/4.  Even that low there is no sign of dust escaping.

Woodguy.

 

[harry_]

I think of speed as heat.

If I 'cant take the heat' then I turn down the speed. It is not often that I am above 180 or 220 grit with out an applied finish which is a huge sign to turn down the sander else I will clog the paper in a hurry. Bare wood is generally much more forgiving.

 

[Chris Hughes]

I always adjust the vac to the pitch of the sander.  Much of my sanding is on solid surface which is unforgiving on the lower grits.  Many times I'll find "j" hooks set at 100 grit or 220 when I get to 600 or start to polish. 

I think that one of the "End Users" programs should focus on sanding.  It would not be very exciting but very helpful IMHO.  Sanding has always been one of my weakest points.

 

[dbworkshop]

I just purchased an ETS150/3 last week (still haven't found the time to put it to use yet), but upon inspection of the box, I noticed what appears to be a table with the speed settings according to abrasives.  My understanding is that each of the abrasives is suited for a different material/application.  Now to just make sense of the various abrasives.

Dan

 

[Tezzer]

20-25mm per second is what i told when i first started woodworking and i still keep that speed. The faster you sand the more fish-tails you get.

Another trick i use, is to get cheap magnifying reading glasses from the $2 shop (i use 3 magnify) and on my final sanding, put them on. Its amazing how i can see "any" scratch, fish-tail or imperfection on the surface and then rectify it.

Ever since i have been doing that my finished lacquered finishes have improved out of sight.

 

[ghostofhoward]

I usually run my dual mode bosch sander at full speed when sanding bare wood and the CT22 between 1/3 and 1/2 speed.I have noticed that if the suction is turned up too high the sander tends to cause the workpiece to jump around.I actually found this thread because I was wondering the same thing about sander speed.I know faster doesnt always mean better.I was reading about someone else who turned down the speed on his trion and was rewarded with a faster,better cut and it got me to wondering if full speed on a sander can actually be counter-productive.Glad to see everyone else runs theirs at full speed too  [smile]

 

[Mac]

  run it at 6 or whatever the fastest speed is, unless there is a reason not to.  I slow way down for buffing (1 or 2)

Out of interest Jess, why do you slow down for buffing? That feels counter intuitive to me, somehow.

Other than that, full speed for the sander, half speed for the extractor has always worked really well for me.

 

[mouppe]

I slow down for buffing too- right down to 1. I think it is because you don't want the pad or wax to get too warm, and it polishes better at a lower speed.

It is similar to a hand polish speed, but without the dead arm!

 

[GPowers]

What about the Festool SHINEX that is coming to the USA?