What went wrong with my TS 55 track saw cut?

motorhead9999

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Nov 10, 2022
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So I finally went to try out my TS-55 and had a bit of an incident, and I'm not entirely sure what went wrong.

Went through the initial setup instructions. I joined two tracks together with the festool connectors (a LR-32 track, and a 1400s track). Tightened the cams, and the saw slid nicely along the track, no slop. Did the trimming of the splinter guard with no problems (other than forgetting to connect my vacuum, god what a mess). Put a piece of 1/4" birch plywood on the foam, clamped my track to the foam,  set up my cut, and went across. Didn't notice any problems during the cut.

When I went to review the cut though, somehow a chunk of the track got taken out along with the splinter guard. I'm not entirely sure how/why this happened. The only idea I can have is that I started the track saw on the unsupported end pictured, and there was some flex, or something that would have caused the blade to be slightly wonky. Is that it, or any other good theories? And if it's something else, what do I do to prevent this from happening again in the future? Obviously I've got a less than fully useful track piece now, but I certainly don't want something more serious to happen in the future.
 

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Unless the saw simply wasn’t seated on the track spine it was probably not advanced far enough onto the track so that the rear gib (the plastic things embedded in the bottom of the saw) was engaged with the spine. Both gibs need to be engaged for the saw to held parallel to the splinter guard. Something to be aware of at both the start and finish of the cut.
 
put the saw back on the track. align the blade just where the cut in to the aluminum is. and take a picture from  further back to see the back of the track
 
It's part of the learning curve, I did the same thing. 

At least for me it was strange pushing a weird sounding saw on aluminum track and using my non dominant hand.

I agree better support and more practice will alleviate any further incidents.

All the best. 
 
I would say that you simply were not properly seated on the track. Clamping to the foam is probably not the best thing either, who knows what amount of flex you induced there. The act of plunging the saw is more than enough pressure to keep the track from moving on your plywood. When doing straight (90 degree) cuts it is generally unnecessary. Do not run off the end of the track.
Bevel cuts are completely different. You should always clamp the track in that situation.
 
The track will still work fine. You just replace the splinter guard. I have several gouges in my guides, and they do not affect the operation at all. I agree with Miachael that the saw was probably not engaged with the track. Don
 
Crazyraceguy said:
I would say that you simply were not properly seated on the track.

What he said ^^^. 

And you don't really need to replace the splinter guard.  Just peel it off the rail and move it out by 1/8" or so before reapplying it, then recut the edge.  [smile]
 
If this is at the end or near the end of the track, then I would not even bother replacing or resetting the anti-splinter strip until  it wears along it's length. You can align it with a mark (on the wood) that is not in that particular spot. And for many cuts you may not even have that portion of the track on the wood.

I suggest using it a bit more before you bother. Maybe order a new strip to have on hand.

Seth
 
waho6o9 said:
It's part of the learning curve, I did the same thing. 

At least for me it was strange pushing a weird sounding saw on aluminum track and using my non dominant hand.

I agree better support and more practice will alleviate any further incidents.

All the best.

Ditto, IIRC I got kickback while plunging the saw into the stock at the start of the cut instead of plunging before entering the stock. Saw may not ahve been fully up to speed before I plunged also, it jumped and made a near identical gash in the track right at the splinter strip.

Badge of honor.

RMW
 
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