Which CE countersink for standard #8 wood screw?

[jhark123]

Hi,

I'd like to get a CE countersink w/depth stop for cabinet installs.  I join face frames with #8 flat head screw so that the head is flush with the wood surface.  Which countersink with match the head taper and width?

Thanks,

Jason

 

[danrush]

Jason, For what it's worth...  I install cabs everyday and here's what I use:

I predrill the cabs with a 5mm bit.  I purposely use that large a bit to allow for some frame adjustment once the screw is set .

Then drive a 2 3/8" drylube screw from McFeeleys.  The head has serrations on the underside that cut the surface of the cabinet and allow the screw it seat flush.  No countersink needed!! 

This method works on every material I've run into, Oak, Maple, even Hickory.

Dan

 

[AlexThePalex]

I use the 3,5 mm countersink w/depth stop for most of my screws. I can use it for all 4,5, and 6 mm thick screws. I just wish they made a 2,5 mm version also because I use a lot of 3 mm screws too. 

 

[Tim Morris]

I use the 3.5 mm for #6 and #8's as well. works great. Their depth stop virtually guarantees no damage to cabinets. Just don't forget to look around and pick up when your done they are expensive to leave laying and they seem to disappear overnight  . No I'm not talking from experience.  [mad]

 

[ccmviking]

I use the 4,5 for these screws Cabinet Face Frame Connector

If you use the 3,5 the hole will be too small and the screw will not draw the face frames tightly together.  The drill bit will drill a pilot hole through and countersink one side of the face frame completely through a 1.5" stile.  The screw will then cut itself into the adjoining one without cracking, provided you drill your hole straight.  The only issue with the 4,5 is that the flutes are too short on the bit so it won't clean itself out well.  You'll have to withdraw the bit several times to clean it while boring your pilot hole.  You can source other 4.5mm bits to remedy most of this nuisance.  I use it all the time and it works well. 

 

[mastercabman]

I drill the first cabinet with a 4mm bit,and use a #8 flat head screws with nibs.It also have a auger point.

 

[peter halle]

Jason, For what it's worth...  I install cabs everyday and here's what I use:

I predrill the cabs with a 5mm bit.  I purposely use that large a bit to allow for some frame adjustment once the screw is set .

Then drive a 2 3/8" drylube screw from McFeeleys.  The head has serrations on the underside that cut the surface of the cabinet and allow the screw it seat flush.  No countersink needed!! 

This method works on every material I've run into, Oak, Maple, even Hickory.

Dan

Dan,

I have been a fan of McFeeleys for 20 plus years.  Last weekend I tried Spax screws.  I could have ordered them from McFeeleys but instead bought them from that big box store that has orange coloration.  I was impressed.  They have the nibs and the bottom 3 to 4 turns have serations to cut threads into your un-drilled wood.  There is also a screw for MDF and wood that splits.

Just a thought.

Peter

 

[Dan Clark]

+1 on the Spax.  The smaller ones have a combo square + Phillips.  The larger are Torx.  Good screws; available locally.

Dan.

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

If you like spax find some GRK's, spax wants to be like grk.

http://www.grkfasteners.ca/grk/servlet/GRKRetailLocator

 

[Warrior]

+1 on the GRKs. GRK screws are the best. Over and beyond the spaz screws. If festool made screws they would sub it out to GRK.

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

+1 on the GRKs. GRK screws are the best. Over and beyond the spaz screws. If festool made screws they would sub it out to GRK.

That's funny because all the screws they had down there were grk's!!

 

[Winchester]

Countersinking and predrillign is for suckahs

http://www.grkfasteners.com/en/CAB_1_information.htm
[big grin]

 

[jhark123]

Forgive me if I am skeptical.  I get that some screws might not need a countersink, but no predrill on a hardwood face frame?  I find that hard to believe.

 

[harry_]

what does `CE` mean?

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

Forgive me if I am skeptical.  I get that some screws might not need a countersink, but no predrill on a hardwood face frame?  I find that hard to believe.

Believe it.  I only pre drill if it is  going to be a large diameter screw, like 5/16 or bigger.

 

[Jonhilgen]

Countersinking and predrillign is for suckahs

http://www.grkfasteners.com/en/CAB_1_information.htm
[big grin]

Can't use those cabinet screws.  Builders and designers for some reason freak out when they see exposed screw heads in the backs of newly installed cabinets (even though they won't be seen when the client starts filling them).  They all want screw cap covers on the screws and I don't see how I would do that with these...any help?

Jon

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

Just use some of their other screws.

I usually show them the difference in two different screws, all want the washer head cabinet screw.

The color all but disappears in most stained cabinets.

Plus I tend to put them where they can't be seen.
It helps when the guy building the cabinets thinks along the same lines.

 

[jvsteenb]

what does `CE` mean?

I'm guessing the OP meant "Centrotec".

Regards,

Job

 

[jhark123]

So is this what you all are using to join face frames? :

http://www.grkfasteners.com/en/TRIM_0_information.htm

or are you using the washer head cabinet screw and not setting it flush with the wood?

 

[peter halle]

Job,

For joining face frames I believe that this is the style of screw from GRK that would be used:  GRK R4

For installing the cabinets to the walls, if you can use the large washer head styles this would be a GRK choice: GRK Cabinet

Hope that this helps.

Peter