Which first 1400 or router bench

[grobin]

I currently have a cruddy router bench with a skill router and a good fence (Incra 25").  I have two choices:
1.  Get a good table and router--I am looking at;
  a. The Milwaukee 5616-20 2 1/4 hp router (it fits the router table I am looking at without a lift and the woodpeckers lift works for it as well).
  b. The Milwaukee 5625-20 3 1/2hp  router.  Again above table height adjust and bit change.  (Problem is that I can plug it into my CT as I only have 15amps.)
2.  Get the 1400 with the guide stop--I already have the guide rails.

The 2200 is out of the question as I only have one 20 amp circuit and that is not available in the winter.  I can't get another put in for a reasonable amount of money due to the County inspector and the National Electric Code.

I have been making open carcase construction bookcases (and will be for some time).  But I want to make a couple show piece bookcases with solid construction and shelves, and a couple tables.  So far I mostly use the router to make trim for ply shelf edges.  But I want to do some dovetails and dadoes in hardwood.  I also need to do some joining although I use dimensioned wood.  I don't see myself doing panel raising.  I have been doing mostly Lyptus, but a little Osage Orange, Teak, and Tulip wood.  (BTW any joining will need to use the router as I don't have the money, juice or room for a joiner now--well maybe a Lie-Nielsen #7 Joiner Plane.)

So what do you folks recommend?  I can only do one for the near term.

 

[Chris Hughes]

Not to steer anybody away from a Festool router, but given the choices I would opt to build up a router table first for work not easily performed with a hand held application.  If given the choice I would get a router that I can drop into a table but remove easily enough to use for medium duty stuff like dadoes and heavy edging. 

I have two router table station that can go to the field with me.  One of those tables have a lift and dedicated router that never leaves the setup, the other is a PC router and base mounted under my table saw like on a Russeau table so I can still use the motor for hand held apts.

 

[RONWEN]

I have the Milwaukee 5625 in a Woodpecker lift on a Kreg table and I'm very pleased with it.  The only Festool router that I currently have is the 1400 which is a fantastic router but not a good match for a router table.  I'm not clear on your electric current problem -- the 5625 draws 15 amps & wouldn't need to be plugged into you CT.
It of course depends on the work that you do but in my case I use the router table 80% of the time compared to the hand held routers.

EDIT: Re-reading your post on the joining, when I am doing edge glue-ups I learned a trick on the Festool forum of laying the two board edges side by side and making a cut with the TS55 & guide rail aligned so that both pieces are cut at the same time, add some Dominos & glue -- it works beautifully.

 

[tbellemare]

G':

If you can get your stock flat, I agree with RonWen. Cut them simultaneously or cut them with the same set up using a TS saw. They will mate and the DOMINO will mate them.

Tom

 

[Jesse Cloud]

If your need is to make trim, dadoes, and dovetails, but wish to do joinery down the road, I would suggest to get a modest router and table and save your money for some electrical upgrades and a jointer.  And at that, plan on doing the dovetails the day the lumberyard flattens that dimensional lumber for you.  The OF1400 and the 2200 are great, sexy routers, but they basically do the same thing any good router does.  If you are serious about doing furniture, you will need a jointer and a planer - save yourself some grief and get the basics before going for the LN and the 2200.

 

[grobin]

Ron thanks good tip.  As for the router table I have one just not very good.  I can either upgrade the router/table or buy the 1400 but not both.  Not being able to plug the 5625 into the CT is a pain because of no auto start but not a killer.  I am just not sure that I need a honking big 3 1/2 HP 15A router for what I do and plan.

There is absolutely no way within the next 2 years that I can get any more current.  Until I get the money to build a separate shop with a separate service drop I have a limited number of available 15A 120V AC circuits.  I have to make do with what I have.  I have some 50A 220V but limited and as I said one 20A 120V that is unavailable in the winter.

So far everyone seems to favor upgrading the table.

Jerry